LUNCHEONS 

A COOK'S PICTURE BOOK 



A SUPPLEMENT TO THE 
CENTURY COOK BOOK 



/BY 

' THE CENTURY COOK BOOK 

ILLUSTRATED WITH OVER 
TWO HUNDRED PHOTOGRAPHS 




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/^ 




NEW YORK 

THE CENTURY CO, 

1902 



THE LiSRARY OF 
CONGRESS. 

"t'wo CoPHtJ^ RECSIVfiO 

SEP, !6 1902 

CnPVnmHT ENTRY 

CKASS ^^XXo No. 

If / h i T^ 
COPY 3. 



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J' 



Copyright, 1902, by 
The Centuev Co, 



Published October, 1902 



THE DEVINNE PRESS 



THE BOOK 

This book is intended as a supplement to the ''Century 
Cook Book," hence no general rules for cooking are given. 

It is a book of illustrated receipts, a cook's picture-book, 
intended to be very useful in the way of suggestion. It is 
arranged so that housekeepers may more readily make up a 
menu, often a difficult task, or may easily find new dishes 
to vary the routine of the daily fare. 

Instead of various menus, which are impracticable be- 
cause they seldom suit the convenience of the moment, lists 
of dishes are given which can be quickly read over and those 
suitable for the occasion selected. These lists are placed at 
the heads of the sections, each section representing a single 
course, and each list comprising a number of dishes, any one 
of which is suitable for that course. 

The receipts will meet the requirements of luncheons, but 
the majority of them are equally appropriate for dinner. 

Attention has been given to the garnishing and manner of 
dishing, in order to make the dishes pleasing to the sight ; for 
pretty dishes are attractive and recommend themselves, while 
carelessly served ones are sometimes refused on account of 
their appearance. 

The illustrated dishes, though apparently elaborate, are 
in fact quite simple, the pastry -bag and tube, the use of 
which is easily acquired, being the means employed to decor- 
ate many of them. 

The illustrations will serve as suggestions, and the taste of 
the cook will lead her to use such other combinations as are 
suited to her convenience. 



CONTENTS 
CHAPTER I 

(Pages 1-34) 

Luncheons Fontage Cups 

Garnishing andDishing Different Ways of Preparing Butter 
The Pastry-bag Measures and Terms 

Order of Courses 



First Course 



CHAPTER n 

(Pages 35^2) 

Fruits 

Oyster and Clam Cocktails 

Oysters and Clams on the Half Shell 

Canapes 



Second Course 



CHAPTER in 

(Pages 43^8) 

Soups 



Third Course 



CHAPTER IV 

(Pages 49-58) 



Eggs 



Fourth Course 



CHAPTER V 

(Pages 59-68) 

Shell-fish Lobsters 



Fish 



CHAPTER VI 

(Pages 69-82) 

Fifth or Seventh Course Entreies 



Sixth Course 



CONTENTS 
CHAPTER VII 

(Pages 83-106) 

Meats 

Vegetables and Cereals used as Vegetables 

Chicken 

Sauces for Meats Sweet Sauces 



Seventh Course 



CHAPTER VIII 

(Pages 107-111) 

Frozen Punches Fruits 



Cheese Dishes 



Eighth Course 



CHAPTER IX 

(Pages 113-131) 

Game Salads Cold Service 
Salad Dressings 



V^HEESE 



Ninth Course 



CHAPTER X 

(Pages 133-163) 

Hot Desserts Cold Desserts Pies and Tarts 



Tenth Course 



Ices 



CHAPTER XI 

(Pages 165-171) 



CHAPTER XII 

(Pages 173-176) 



Eleventh Course Fruits 



Loaf Cakes 



CHAPTER XIII 

(Pages 177-195) 

Small Fancy Cakes 
CHAPTER XIV 

(Pages 197-211) 

Breads 



Icings 



INDEX 

(Pages 213-223) 



LUNCHEONS 



Chapter I 
LUNCHEONS 

The midday meal, called luncheon, varies in char- 
acter from a very informal service, where the dishes 
are placed on the table and the servants leave the 
room, to one of equal elaboration and formality with 
that of a dinner. As this meal is made to conform 
to convenience, it is difficult to give general rules, 
as rules are conventions of ceremony, and ceremony 
is sometimes disregarded, as in the case where a 
larger number of guests are received than the service 
of the house admits of entertaining in other than 
an informal manner. 

Luncheon proper corresponds to what in foreign 
countries is called the second breakfast, or dejeuner 
a la fourcliette, where people are seated at the table 
and served as at dinner. The French breakfast hour, 
however, is usually twelve o'clock, while luncheon 
is an hour or more later. 

Entertaining at luncheon is as customary as din- The 
ner giving, but ordinarily the company is composed ""'^P^'^y 
of women alone, men as a rule not being entertained 
at this hour, except on holidays or special occasions. 

A card with the name of the guest distinctly writ- Seating 
ten on it designates the place at the table to be occu- guests 
pied by that guest, and each one finds her place with- 
out being otherwise directed, as the hostess is the 



4 LUNCHEONS 

last one to enter the dining-room. If, for any rea- 
son, one lady has precedence over the others, she is 
placed at the right of the hostess ; otherwise the host- 
ess selects for that seat the one whom she wishes par- 
ticularly to compliment. If a stranger is being es- 
pecially entertained, the other guests having been 
invited to meet her, she is given this seat of honor. 
The hostess in this case presents her as a new ac- 
quaintance to her friends, who afterward may call 
upon and extend to her other courtesies. 
invita- The invitations for luncheon are the same in form 
^**°® as for dinner; if the luncheon is a formal enter- 
tainment they are usually written in the third per- 
son, or conventionally expressed in the first person. 
An informal note is written for informal occasions. 
Under no circumstances should a verbal invitation 
be given. 

It is polite to answer an invitation within twelve 
hours. People who are in the habit of entertaining 
are seldom remiss in the courtesy of a prompt reply, 
for they have probably experienced the inconve- 
nience of uncertainty, and the embarrassment of 
having to fill places at the last minute, and so are 
better able to understand the significance of this 
social convention. 
Dress Women wear street costumes or afternoon gowns ; 
they lay off their wraps, but do not remove their hats. 
Men should wear afternoon dress. 
The table At luncheon a table-cloth is not used if the table 
is handsome enough to permit its omission, but often 
leaves are put in which have not the same polish 
as the main table and must be covered with a cloth. 
The use of a cloth is, however, a matter of taste, not 
of rule. 



LUNCHEONS 5 

The polished table requires care to keep it clean 
and free from stains and scratches. It should be 
very frequently rubbed hard with a soft cloth, and 
occasionally a little kerosene or furniture polish 
should be used ; but what is particularly needed is 
plenty of hard rubbing. A varnish polish is easily 
defaced, especially by hot dishes, which leave white 
marks that are difficult to eradicate. The table top 
should have what is called hand polish. This can be 
washed without injury, does not easily stain, heat 
does not affect it, and with daily care it constantly 
grows handsomer. It is better for young house- 
keepers to start with a dull mahogany, or oak, than 
with a shellacked table, which needs frequent 
redressing. 

To protect the table when no table-cloth is used, Mats 
mats are placed under the dishes. The plate mats, 
either square or round, are seven to nine inches 
across. Mats are sometimes lined with asbestos, felt, 
or other thick material to protect the table better 
from the heat of the plates. The mats, as a rule, 
match the centerpiece, but this is not obligatory. 
There is no limit to the variety of centerpieces and 
mats. They range from crochet work and embroi- 
dered linen to beautiful laces. 

Except the mats, the decorations used are the same Decora- 
as for the dinner-table, flowers being the chief and *^°"^ 
always the most beautiful resource. The decora- 
tions should be kept low in order not to obstruct the 
view across the table and so make general conver- 
sation impossible. 

A large table is more imposing with high center- 
pieces, and at buffet luncheons high decorations can 
be indulged in. The cold dishes used on such occa- 



6 LUNCHEONS 

sions are susceptible of much garnishing, and are 
made to form a part of the decoration. 

Where a large number of guests are being enter- 
tained, as at wedding breakfasts, or where the lunch- 
eon is accessory to some other entertainment, the 
guests are frequently seated at small tables placed 
throughout the room. In this case, no ornamenta- 
tion is attempted other than a few flowers on each 
table, as anything more would be an inconvenience. 

Lighting The lighting of the table requires careful con- 
sideration. Artificial light is not used unless neces- 
sary; but a dark, gloomy table should always be 
avoided, and if the room is dark candles should be 
lighted. Sometimes half the guests face bright win- 
dows, while the faces of those sitting with their 
backs to the windows are in shadow. Shaded lights 
in the chandelier will often remove this shadow ; and, 
if carefully managed, the gas-lights will not be dis- 
agreeably noticeable. This, together with a careful 
adjustment of the curtains, will often equalize the 
light; but if a blinding glare cannot thus be over- 
come, it is better to draw the shades and curtains 
and light the candles. In city houses this is fre- 
quently done. 
Laying The table is laid as for dinner, except that bread- 

the table and-butter plates are placed at the left of the dinner 
plates, each bread-and-butter plate having a small 
knife laid across it. These plates are small, and are 
used for the breads and hors d 'oeuvres. 

The food At luncheon the soup is served in cups, and, where 

courses the guests are seated at the table, roasts are seldom 

presented, the meats being served in the form of 

chops, or individual portions; otherwise, the service 

is the same as at dinner. 



LUNCHEONS 7 

At buffet luncheons large cold roasts are used, and 
ordinarily not more than one or two hot dishes are 
served, such as bouillon, creamed oysters, or cro- 
quettes. Cold fish, cold joints; gelatines, and salads 
make the substantial part of the luncheon. All the 
dishes, including the ices, are placed on the buffet 
table at once, and no order is observed in respect to 
courses, each person making his own selection. On 
these occasions the gentlemen serve the ladies, and 
but little extra household service is needed. 

Where the guests are seated at small ' tables the 
service is the same as if all were seated at one table, 
and a number of servants are required. There 
should always be enough waiters to serve the meal 
quickly. An hour and a half is the extreme limit 
of time that guests should be kept at the table. 
Seven or eight courses are all that should be pre- 
sented, and these should be served quickly, but with- 
out apparent haste. The days of long feasting are 
passed. People of to-day value their health and 
time too much to sit for hours at a time at the table. 
The meal should be over before there is any fatigue 
or dullness ; but on the word of Brillat-Savarin, an 
accepted authority on gastronomic subjects, it is safe 
to detain guests at the table for one hour. He says : 

"La table est le seul endroit ou Ton ne s'ennuie 
jamais pendant la premiere heure. ' ' 



GARNISHINa AND DISHING 

MEATS 

One celebrated French chef says : " II f aut viser a 
charmer les yeux des gourmet avant d'en satisfaire 



8 LUNCHEONS 

le gout"; and another, in giving advice to begin- 
ners, says: "A cook should have that artistic feeling 
which imparts to everything, great and small, that 
harmony of style which captivates the eye. ' ' 

This necessity is well recognized by every good 
cook, and such a one tries to give dishes the inviting 
appearance justly demanded by epicures. It is not 
necessary that the dish belong to the category which 
in cooking parlance is termed "high class," for the 
simplest one conies under the same rule and is capa- 
ble of being raised to a higher rank by careful dish- 
ing and tasteful garnishing. The greatest cooks are 
renowned for such specialties. 

It is said of Soyer, ' ' for dishing up he was entitled 
to celebrity ' ' ; and of Careme, ' ' he excelled in every- 
thing requiring perfect taste, and dealt in a new 
and very effective manner with the ornamentation 
of large cold dishes." 

There is nothing which so quickly indicates the 
grade of the cook as the manner in which she serves 
her dishes. One who has no pride in her work seldom 
takes time for ornamentation, though garnishing is 
the simplest part of her duty. When, however, at- 
tention is given to this branch, even though the result 
may not be perfect, it gives promise of better things, 
and one may confidently predict for the cook who 
thus shows desire to do well that she will attain a 
higher degree of excellence in her profession. There 
is no class of dishes, from breads to desserts, which 
are not more appetizing when made attractive in ap- 
pearance. It has been said that "eyes do half the 
eating," and as no expense need be incurred in the 
indulgence of tasteful arrangement of the dishes, 
there seems to be no reason why the simplest table 



LUNCHEONS 9 

should not share with the most expensive one this 
element of success. Care, taste, and ingenuity will 
do much to remedy the lack of money, and may 
change the standard of the table from coarseness to 
refinement. Many suggestions for decorations may 
be found in the show-windows of bakers, pastry- 
cooks, fishmongers, and of delicatessen shops. Many 
of the pieces displayed there may seem elaborate and 
difficult to the novice, but they are, in reality, simple 
enough when the use of materials is understood. 

The word garnishing is used here in a broad inter- 
pretation of the term, meaning the general ornamen- 
tation of dishes, whether it be obtained by form, 
color, dishing, or by dressing them with those articles 
called garnishes. 

For example, beginning with breads, embellish- 
ment is accomplished by means of form and color. 
The form is gained by molding and cutting; the 
color, by glazing with egg or sugar. A universal 
expedient, when short of bread, is the soda biscuit. 
These biscuits, when cut in very small rounds of 
uniform size, will tempt the scoffer of hot breads; 
while large or small crusty rolls, all of exactly the 
same size, and baked a golden color, will also make 
him forget his prejudices and find excuse in the 
delicious crust for eating them. But these same 
biscuits carelessly cut or molded or baked would 
offer him no excuse for inviting dyspepsia. Toast 
looks more inviting when cut into strips or triangles, 
or with the corners neatly cut off if served in whole 
slices. Any little thing which indicates care on the 
part of the cook recommends the dish to favor and 
almost guarantees its excellence— on the principle 
that straws show which way the wind blows. 



10 LUNCHEONS 

For soups, there is to be found, in any cook book, 
a long list of garnishes which may be used. Cer- 
tainly a clear soup is more beautiful whe]i a few 
green peas or a few bits of celery increase its bril- 
liancy; a cream soup is greatly improved by a few 
small croutons ; and so on through the various classes 
of dishes. 

The garnishes for meat dishes are so various, it 
may be said that their only limit is the ingenuity 
and resources of the cook. 

It should be remembered that dishes which are 
served hot do not permit of as much garnishing as 
cold ones. The first requisite in the former is heat, 
and this must not be lost by time given to elaborate 
garnishing. It does not, however, exclude them from 
the privilege of being embellished ; for if the gar- 
nishes are prepared and ready at hand, it takes but 
a minute to put them in place. Hot meat dishes can 
also rely on other things to improve their appear- 
ance, such as shapeliness and uniformity; therefore, 
strict attention should be given to the cutting and 
trimming of meats, to the molding of croquettes, 
of meat-balls, or of anything served in pieces, and 
also to the dishing of the same. 

After meat is well cut, if a joint, it should be di- 
vested of all points and irregularities, and of car- 
tilage which will interfere with the carving, and 
then should be trimmed into a well-balanced and 
symmetrical form, attention being given to the mat- 
ter of its standing squarely and solidly upon the 
platter. 

Chops and cutlets should be trimmed into uni- 
form size and shape. This can be done without 
waste, as the trimmings have their uses. Careful 



LUNCHEONS 11 

dressing and trussing is essential for poultry, as the 
appearance of an untrussed fowl is enough to de- 
stroy the appetite and condemn the dinner. A fowl 
should be pressed into a rounded and smooth surface 
in order to dissociate the article served from the 
thing of life. 

Meat should be placed exactly in the center of the 
platter, except in certain instances where studied 
irregularity is given for special garnishing. To place 
chops or cutlets neatly overlapping one another, 
either in rows or in a circle, requires some dexterity, 
perhaps, but this is acquired by a very little prac- 
tice, and such an arrangement not only helps to keep 
the meats hot, but is in itself ornamental. The 
platter should be in right proportion to the article 
served upon it. A large joint on too small a platter 
gives the same sense of unsuitableness that an out- 
grown garment gives to a boy or a girl, and the carv- 
ing of this seemingly overgrown joint usually results 
in accidents to the table-cloth. Again, too small a 
platter affords no room for garnishing. 

The color given meat in cooking may be called 
its secondary garnish, space being the first. Care 
should be taken, if it is roasted, that it be well 
browned ; if it is boiled, that it be white and clean- 
looking; if it is fried, that it be not blackened, but 
a clear lemon color. Poultry should have a golden 
color that suggests crispness. It is difficult to make 
the mediocre cook understand these points. 

Larding also serves an ornamental purpose. Dry 
meats, like veal, and oftentimes fowls, are im- 
proved in flavor by being larded ; and it should be so 
done as to make it an ornamental feature. There is 
no part in the preparation of dishes easier to per- 



12 LUNCHEONS 

form than larding, and no novice need hesitate to 
undertake it. 

Hashes and minces can, with very little trouble, 
be made attractive in appearance as well as in taste. 
Hash pressed into a mold, giving it a ring or a dome 
shape, then masked or not with a sauce, or simply 
turned upon a platter, can be prettily garnished 
with eggs and greens. Plain meat-balls and potato- 
or hominy-balls can be placed together on a platter 
with such regard to effect that the dish assumes the 
character of an entree, instead of appearing like a 
makeshift from left-over pieces. 

The next means after larding in what may be 
called natural garnishing is in the employment of 
gravies and sauces. No article should ever swim 
in sauce, but a little can be used with good effect on 
many dishes. A venison steak wet with a currant 
jelly sauce, and just enough of the sauce poured 
on the bottom of the platter to color it, gives a glaze 
and juicy look to the steak which improves its ap- 
pearance. A very little tomato sauce under breaded 
veal chops or croquettes gives color and emphasis 
to the dish. White sauce poured over boiled dishes 
gives greater whiteness and often covers defects. In 
French cooking, much use is made of masking, 
which is often done by glazing and by the use of 
sauces. As white sauces will make white foods 
whiter, so brown ones will make brown ones browner. 
Fitness must of course be observed. If crispness is 
a part of the excellence of a dish, it would not do to 
destroy that quality by using a moistening garnish. 

Vegetables as pfarnishes come next in order of 
suitableness and convenience. When vegetables are 
placed on the same platter with meats, they not only 



LUNCHEONS 13 

ornament the dish, but contribute to the ease of 
serving a dinner. AVTien they are used the dish is 
called a la jardiniere or a la printaniere. Probably 
every cook knows how to serve mashed or fried pota- 
toes or green peas in the center of a circle of chops. 
Similar combinations can be made in various ways 
and of many things. Spinach, beans, carrots, purees, 
macaroni, spaghetti, or rice may be placed so as to 
form a base, raising the chops like a crown, or 
grouped with them in rows, or alternating with the 
individual pieces. Macedoine is a mixture of any 
number of vegetables, such as peas, beans of various 
kinds, carrot and turnip balls, flowers of cauliflower 
and any other vegetable obtainable. They may be 
mixed together, or each vegetable may be kept dis- 
tinct and placed in small piles around the platter. 
Small portions of vegetables left over may be used to 
advantage in this way. Very little need be used of 
any one, and any number may be combined on the 
same dish. Potatoes boiled or fried can be prepared 
in many fancy ways to make them suitable for gar- 
nishing. Well-seasoned spinach is excellent with 
chops, steaks, or roasts. Browned onions are often 
used. Meats with onion garnishes make dishes called 
a la soubise. Brussels sprouts, hot, are a suitable gar- 
nish for corned beef ; or cold, with a French dressing, 
are an excellent salad to serve with cold beef. They 
should not be over-cooked or they will lose their 
shape. Stuffed tomatoes may be used with almost 
any meat dish. 

Vegetable puree, in fancy form, is useful for em- 
bellishment, and may take the place of a fresh vege- 
table. Puree is made of any vegetable mashed and 
seasoned in the same manner as potato. Navy beans, 



14 LUNCHEONS 

lima beans, flageolets, and peas, either fresh or dried, 
are so used. The puree can be pressed through a 
pastry-bag into forms simulating roses, or placed in 
piles on rounds of toast. Vegetables intended to be 
eaten with the meats they garnish should be well 
seasoned before being placed on the platter; but 
where they are to serve only an ornamental pur- 
pose, they may sometimes, as in the case of carrots 
and turnips, be used uncooked, as they have a better 
color and more firmness when raw. These two vege- 
tables are very useful, as they are obtainable all 
the year round. Carrots are particularly pretty 
when small. Large ones sliced and then stamped into 
fancy shapes, combined with turnips treated in the 
same way, are frequently used for making designs. 
Sometimes they are cut into balls, sometimes are 
carved into forms simulating roses. It is easy to 
make them into cups, using a fluted knife to shape 
the outside, and hollowing the center with a potato- 
scoop. These cups are good for holding any vege- 
table or for vegetable salads. 

Rice is generally used for borders which are in- 
tended to keep creamed dishes and fricassees in 
shape. Sausages cut in halves or quarters, or fried 
bacon, make a good relish as well as a garnish for 
many meats; they are particularly good with egg 
dishes. Paper frills on protruding bones serve the 
excellent purpose of concealing these unsightly ends. 
They are easily made by folding a strip of paper 
lengthwise, then cutting it down about one and 
a half inches at intervals of one-eighth inch on the 
folded side, thus making a double fringe; next slip 
one side up a little, making the fringe round out; 
and, finally, roll this around a stick, leaving the 



LUNCHEONS 15 

openwork in a close spiral. These frills are used on 
the bones of a leg of mutton, on ham, on chops, and 
on drumsticks. 

The green garnishes are parsley, watercress, small 
crisp lettuce leaves, green lettuce cut into ribbons, 
chicory, and celery tops. These are all edible, and 
all have places where they are especially appropriate. 
Parsley, which is most commonly used, is preem- 
inent for convenience, beauty of leaf, and freshness. 
In many cases, however, greens which can be eaten 
with the dish are preferable, such as watercress with 
broiled or fried meats or fish. Parsley may be used 
with almost everything in its purely ornamental 
function, but it can be chopped and sprinkled over 
foods for both its flavoring and decorative qualities. 
A woman who has mastered the art of making an 
omelet will usually give it this finishing touch. 
Parsley should be very green and crisp, well washed, 
and dried with a cloth before being used; it may 
then be broken into sprigs and placed at intervals, 
or formed into a wreath. Sometimes a large bunch, 
like a bouquet, may be used with good effect. 

Lemons, like parsley, have convenience to recom- 
mend them, and, like watercress, are acceptable with 
fried meats. The acid of lemon is the best condiment 
for veal. When they serve the double purpose of 
garnish and condiment, they should be cut so the 
pieces can be taken in the hand and pressed with- 
out soiling the fingers. This is effected by cutting 
them in quarters lengthwise, or in halves and then 
in quarters. In some instances a half lemon is not 
too much to serve with one portion, but ordinarily 
quarters are sufficient. Slices are useless with meats, 
except as ornaments. Illustration No. 1 shows a 



16 LUNCHEONS 

lemon ready to be sliced. It has been channeled so 
as to give the notched edges which make the slices 
more ornamental. The illustration also shows a 
lemon made to simulate a pig. This form can be 
used with propriety on a ham or pork dish. The 
ears are formed by cutting and raising a triangular 
slice on each side of the pointed end, the eyes are 
made of cloves, the legs and tail of wooden tooth- 
picks. 

Hard-boiled eggs ornament in a variety of ways. 
They should be boiled very hard, then cut with a 
thin, sharp knife so the slices will be smooth and the 
edges clean. Illustration No. 2 shows plain slices, 
rings made by slipping the yolk out of slices, an 
egg cut into quarters and eighths, a whole yolk set 
into a ring, and a stuffed egg. Yolks pressed through 
a colander and sprinkled over creamed meat and fish 
dishes, cream toast, and some other dishes make a 
beautiful golden covering. Chopped whites in con- 
junction with crumbed yolks are used for tracing 
designs over salads, minces, and cold pieces. 

Pickled beets are a useful and effective garnish. 
The color gives decided contrast, and the flavor is 
a good relish. Sliced beets can be stamped with 
vegetable-cutters into fancy shapes, or cvit with a 
knife into diamonds, cubes, or strips. One can easily 
have them always at hand. Two or three boiled beets 
sliced thin and put into vinegar will last until all are 
used, and should be among the stores in the dresser 
awaiting the convenience of the cook. Cucumber 
pickles and gherkins are equally useful in point of 
color effects, and in giving piquancy to many foods. 
They are used in slices stamped into fancy shapes, or 
chopped and arranged in lines or in little heaps. 
Gherkins are usually left whole, but may be sliced, 




NO. 1. LEMONS cur FOE GARNISHES. 




NO, 2. EG<iS CUT FOE GAENISHES. 




NO. 3. GARNISHES. 



1. A carrot cut into cup sliape^witli a fluted knife and filled with tomato. 

2. A lemon cut into basket shape, the center covered with chopped 

parsley. 

3. A turnip cut into cup shape with fluted knife and filled with green 

peas. 

4. A carrot cup holding parsley. 

5. Graduated slices of carrot holding a sprig of parsley. 

6. Olives. 

7. Strips of the white of a hard boiled egg arranged in a circle, the whole 

yolk placed iu the center. The white is cut lengthwise of the egg, the 
strips pointed at the ends and sliced so they will lie flat. A small 
slice is taken off the yolk to make it stand firm. 

8. Cranberries. 

9. Slices of celery that are crescent shaped. 

10. Sliced pickled beet stamped into various shapes. 

11. A gherkin sliced nearly to the end, the slices then spread out to re- 

semble a leaf. 

12. Chopped pickled beet. 

13. A bottle of capers. 

14. Aspic jelly cut into triangular, square, and diamond shaped pieces 

and into small dice. 
On the front edge of the board are three pieces of chicken aspic which is 
so transparent that the pattern of the paper shows through it. 



LUNCHEONS 17 

giving buttons of color. Capers and olives complete 
the list of condiment garnishes, though any pickle 
may be used with propriety on cold meat dishes. 
Illustration No. 3 shows various garnishes as ex- 
plained in legend. 

Croutons are an indispensable part of hot minced 
meat dishes, creamed mixtures, and eggs cooked in 
various ways. They serve also to ornament these 
dishes, which especially require garnishing to make 
them presentable. Croutons are pieces of bread 
browned in butter in a saute-pan, or moistened with 
butter and browned in the oven. Care should be 
taken to cut them exactly, the shape depending on 
the dish with which they are to be used. For soups 
they should be quarter-inch cubes ; for minced meats, 
triangles more or less acute. Circles, squares, and 
strips also have their places. The color should be 
light golden, not dark brown ; the latter color betrays 
inexperience or carelessness. 

Fontage cups holding vegetables are useful for 
garnishing. 

The articles in the following list are used for gar- 
nishing meats: 

Parsley Fancy skewers 

Lettuce Paper frills 

Watercress Vegetables 

Chicory Mushrooms 

Hard-boiled eggs Macaroni 

Lemons Spaghetti 

Pickles Rice 

Capers Potato or puree forms 

Olives Sauces 

Beets Sausages 

Croutons Bacon 



18 LUNCHEONS 

A cook who has a desire to ornament her dishes can 
make an infinite variety of garnishings by combin- 
ing various things, or by changing the form and ar- 
rangement of any one of them. Most of the articles 
used are within the reach of all. It is even not 
necessary to buy articles especially for this purpose, 
for odds and ends left over, or those standard stores 
always in the larder, will afford enough material 
tastefully to ornament the dishes. 

It must be borne in mind that decorations should 
not be such as will embarrass the carver. 



VEGETABLES 

With very few exceptions, vegetables should be 
served au natiirel. Meats require all the aids of skil- 
ful handling and tasteful adornment. Vegetables, 
on the contrary, have great beauty in themselves, 
and the art of the cook cannot rival that of nature. 
Therefore a few sprigs of parsley so arranged as to 
give a finish to the dish are ordinarily sufficient gar- 
nishing. In those cases, however, where the vege- 
tables lose form and color in cooking, the skill of the 
cook may be employed to restore these qualities as 
far as possible. The more a cabbage can be made to 
look like itself, the more attractive it will be. This, at 
first thought, may seem a difficult thing to do, but the 
boiled vegetable can easily be placed in a cup made 
of the outside green leaves of the cabbage, and so, 
in a measure, present its own beautiful form and 
color. Illustration No. 4 shows a plain boiled cab- 
bage mixed with a white sauce and so arranged. 

The color of this vegetable in its natural state ap- 
peals to the esthetic sense of every artist, and many 




NO. 4. SAVOY CABBAGE LEAVES HOLDING CREAMED BOILED CABBAGE. 




NO. 5. SPINACH GARNISHED WITH WHITE OF HARD BOILED EGG AND CROUTONS. 



fHAA 




NO. 6. ASPIC OF GREEN PEAS. 



LUNCHEONS 19 

a beautiful picture has been made of a field of cab- 
bages ; yet the farmer who sees a man sit down with 
canvas and brush before his cabbage patch usually 
regards him as a crank, for to his untutored mind 
cabbages are associated only with their utility. 
Many housekeepers are equally mistaken in their 
views about this vegetable, and consider it coarse 
food fit to serve only garnished with apologies. Such 
opinions are based on error, however, for the cab- 
bage is both beautiful to look at and delicious to eat. 
There are many receipts for cooking cabbage which 
make it as delicate a dish as cauliflower. 

In the case of spinach, since the form cannot be 
preserved, recourse is had to molding; the color also 
may be heightened by contrast with other colors. 
Illustration No. 5 shows spinach molded by being 
pressed into a basin decorated with the whites of 
hard-boiled eggs, and with croutons placed around 
the form after it is unmolded. Both the eggs and the 
croutons improve the taste of the spinach. The 
basin was first buttered to hold the egg in place while 
the design was being arranged. Crumbed yolk of 
hard-boiled egg sprinkled over spinach is another 
garnishing for this vegetable which enhances its 
green color and gives the dish a better appearance. 

There are many ways of cooking any vegetable. 
These various ways may serve for change, but few 
of them are better than the simple one of boiling 
and serving with a suitable sauce. Attention should 
be given to dishing vegetables so that there is no ap- 
pearance of their having been turned carelessly on 
to the platter. A neatly folded napkin can be used 
under dry, unseasoned vegetables, like asparagus, 
artichokes, or corn. The napkin gives daintiness to 



20 LUNCHEONS 

the dish, and in the case of corn, when folded over 
it, helps to keep it hot. 

COLD DISHES 

It has been said above that discrimination should 
be made in garnishing dishes ; those to be served hot, 
for instance, should go directly from the fire to the 
table, and not be allowed to become cool while being 
elaborately garnished ; on the other hand, cold dishes 
demand no haste and permit of so much elaboration 
that at suppers and buffet luncheons they are de- 
pended upon largely for table decoration. 

The accomplished cook considers the work on cold 
pieces an opportunity for giving examples of his 
skill, and the ornamentation of molds and chaud- 
froids a kind of fancy work which requires nicety 
and taste. Under the head of cold dishes come all 
the salads, the pates, gelatines, cold fish dishes, ices, 
and sweets. In each of these there is range in which 
to display culinary accomplishments. The skill re- 
quisite for moderate adornment of these dishes is 
not so great that one need hesitate to undertake 
them. Cold dishes are often more gratefully re- 
ceived in summer than hot ones, therefore it is de- 
sirable that every cook should be able to serve them 
in attractive forms. Again, from an economic point 
of view they are desirable, as meats can be served 
a second time in cold forms quite as acceptably as 
before. 

Many meats, when served cold, require to be boned 
and pressed into good shape. Ordinary kitchen 
boards weighted down serve very well for a press. 
The meat, while hot, is put into molds, or is rolled 



LUNCHEONS 21 

in cloth, the ends tied, and then placed in the press. 
Small muffin-rings can be used for sweetbreads, 
bread-tins or oval molds for other meats. Chaud- 
froid sauce is often spread over galantines, and jel- 
lied mayonnaise over cold fish. On this smooth sur- 
face the decoration is laid in some design traced in 
fancy cuts of truffle, or in a combination of white of 
egg with truffles, cold tongue, olives, and other suit- 
able things which give color. See illustration 
No. 114. 

Aspic jelly is a principal reliance for covering cold 
pieces. It is not masking in this case, for the jelly 
should be perfectly transparent, while masking con- 
ceals the material of which the dish is composed. 
Aspic is also cut into small triangles or in squares 
to make borders, and is sometimes chopped and used 
for decoration. See illustration No. 3. Aspic is no 
longer one of the difficult preparations reserved for 
the hand of the very experienced cook. Any of the 
beef or chicken extracts stiffened with gelatine, and 
seasoned and cleared if necessary, make good aspic. 
The preparation is as simple as that of any jelly. 
A little care, however, in molding and handling is 
requisite for good results. Jellied vegetables are ap- 
propriate to use with jellied or other cold meats. 
Small cups are used for molding them, and the pieces 
can be made very ornamental. See illustration No. 6. 
The small forms placed around meat and served with 
a green salad make an attractive cold course. 

Fancy skewers are much employed on cold meats. 
Their office is purely ornamental, so when they are 
used trouble is not to be considered. A fancy-headed 
skewer is run through, perhaps, a fine red cockscomb, 
then a truffle, then a fancy cut of lemon, or a mush- 



22 LUNCHEONS 

room, or a carved vegetable. Truffles in combination 
with vegetables molded in aspic and quenelles also are 
often used. If all these things are impracticable, 
one can devise combinations more easily obtained. 
A trussing needle can be utilized, concealing the 
head in a section of lemon and building down with 
carrot and turnip in alternating colors and shapes, 
and perhaps using a crawfish, an egg, or an olive 
in the combination. See illustration No. 7. French 
authors recommend that these skewers be employed 
only occasionally, so that they may not lose the at- 
traction which novelty gives them. 

Cracked, crushed, or ground ice can often be used 
with good effect. It gives crispness to olives, celery, 
radishes, and cucumbers, and enhances the beauty 
of the dish as well. With raw oysters it is indispen- 
sable, and with melons very desirable. A free use of 
ice on the summer breakfast table will go far toward 
inviting an appetite for that meal. 

It is well to remember that although great elabora- 
tion is possible in cold dishes, it is not necessary, and 
dishes can be made very attractive without chaud- 
froid, aspic, or traced designs. If the pieces are 
shapely, they will look well if simply sprinkled with 
chopped parsley, chopped white of egg, or the 
crumbed yolks, and dressed with any of the green 
salads. Flowers also can be used to aid in adorn- 
ment. 



FISH 

As fish dishes rank with any other kind in point 
of attractiveness, and are open to almost as great a 
variety of garnishing as are jneats, the same general 




NO. 7. FANCY SKEWEKS FOR GARNISHING COLD MEAT OR FISH KISIIES. 



1. Mushroom, Cranberry, or Olive, whole Hard Boiled Egg, Cranberry, 

Mushroom. 

2. Cranberry or Olive. Prawn, Quarter of Leuion. Prawn, Cranberry, or 

Olive. 

3. Mushroom with Stem. Notched Sliee of Lemon. Cranberry or Olive. 

Lemon, Cranberry, or Olive. 




NO. 8. BOILED FISH IN SWIMMING POSITION. 




NO. 9. BOILED SECTION OF FISH COVERED WITH WHITE SAUCE AND 
GARNISHED WITH CHOPPED PARSLEY AND POTATO BALLS. 



LUNCHEONS 23 

remarks apply to them. The matter of shape and 
color here, too, has to be considered. A boiled fish 
dropping to pieces from over-cooking, or bereft of its 
head or tail, is an unsightly dish. It is permitted 
to serve fish au naturel, even going so far as to sim- 
ulate swimming. This is done by propping it with 
a whole carrot laid inside, which gives the fish 
enough rigidity to stand upright. Illustration No. 
8 shows a fish served in this way. The garnishing 
is white rings of hard-boiled egg, holding sprigs of 
parsley, laid along the back. A slice of lemon 
sprinkled with and surrounded by parsley, giving 
the effect of a medallion, is placed against the side of 
the fish. A fish to be baked may be twisted like the 
letter S to make it stand upright. A boiled fish, 
whether served whole or in part, should appear clean. 
No scum from the kettle should be suffered to remain 
on it, and no water should drip from it into the 
platter. A folded napkin is usually placed under 
boiled fish to insure dryness. 

Boiled potatoes are ordinarily served with boiled 
fish, and may be used for garnishing, if cut into balls 
and cooked so that they are very white and mealy. 
Parsley gives color and also a sense of freshness. It 
may be used in large bunches, especially when the 
fish is cut, or on creamed fish dishes. 

Illustration No. 9 shows a middle cut of fish with 
potato and parsley decoration. The fish being cod, 
the flesh is not sufficiently white to be attractive, and 
so it is masked with white sauce, then sprinkled with 
chopped parsley. Had the fish been halibut, the 
sauce would have been omitted. Hard-boiled eggs 
are an excellent accompaniment for boiled fish, and 
when not used in the sauce may be supplied in the 



24 LUNCHEONS 

garnishing. Creamed fish is pretty with the top 
made golden with crumbed yolks. 

Fried fish should have a lemon color and look 
clean, dry, and bright, not black or greasy. The 
color is secured by dipping them in milk, then rolling 
in flour and frying in smoking-hot fat ; or, if eggs 
and crumbs are used, having white, fresh crumbs 
grated from the stale loaf. Fish to be fried is often 
cut into slices, or into fillets, but small fish need not 
be cut and so lose their character. Smelts are some- 
times turned into rings, or are laid open and the head 
drawn through a slit cut in the back. Different ways 
of dressing them give variety, and make dishes orna- 
mental from form alone. If potatoes are served with 
fried fish, they should be cut into balls and fried. 
Lemons are indispensable with fried or broiled fish. 
They are frequently sliced, but are better cut in 
quarters so as to give more of the juice, which is 
needed for condiment. Lemon sprinkled with chop- 
ped parsley is very pretty. 

Broiled fish is improved by being spread with 
maitre d 'hotel butter. This gives it a moist appear- 
ance, and is the best possible sauce for it ; at the same 
time the parsley in the sauce helps to garnish the 
dish. Watercress placed around the fish completes 
the garnishing and makes the dish perfect. Lemon 
and watercress are the best condiments for any fried 
or broiled dish. Baked fish will not bear more than 
a few sprigs of parsley as garnishing. 

Lobster coral is much esteemed on account of its 
brilliant color, and when lobster is served it is well 
to use it as a garnish. It may be sprinkled over the 
whole surface of a lobster dish, or be arranged in 
lines or dots as the circumstances suggest. Shrimps, 



LUNCHEONS 25 

prawns, and crawfish make good garnishes for any 
fish, whether it is served hot or cold. 

When dishes are to be passed, the dishing and gar- 
nishing should be such that the portions are easily 
distinguishable. 

An amusing story is told by a scientist of the pre- 
dicament in which he was placed when the guest 
of honor at an English table. He was a man of sim- 
ple habits in his home, and was very near-sighted. 
Elaborately garnished dishes were passed to him 
first, as he sat at the right of the host, and he had to 
break the construction of what he was pleased to call 
architectural or master-builder's dishes, and this 
without knowing where their keystone lay, or of 
what they were composed. He was thus obliged to 
make public exhibition of his awkwardness, as well 
as betray ignorance in that branch of his own busi- 
ness, which left him unable to recognize biological 
specimens when they had evolved into their highest 
development in the hands of the cook. This story 
serves as an important hint that no dish should be 
entirely disguised. A lobster should still be a lobster 
in form or suggestion, however it is prepared. For 
example, should it be served in chops, a claw pressed 
into one end would not only carry out the form of a 
chop, but would also designate the dish. There is 
generally something that can be reserved from an 
article which loses its shape in cooking that may be 
used to garnish the dish and act as a kind of label. 

The garnishes are: 

For Vegetables 

Parsley Croutons . 

Hard-boiled eggs 



26 



LUNCHEONS 



For Cold Meats 
Parsley 

Leaves of any of the salads 
Cold vegetables in fancy cuts 
Hard-boiled eggs 
Stuffed eggs 
Pickles of any kind 
Capers 
Olives 



Lemons 

Jellied vegetables 

Aspic jelly 

Truffles 

Chaudfroid sauce 

Fancy skevs^ers 

Flowers 

Ice 



Parsley 

Lettuce 

Watercress 

Croutons 

Hard-boiled eggs 

Lemons 

Pickles 



For Fish 

Capers 

Potato puree and balls 

Lobster coral and claws 

Crawfish 

Prawns 

Shrimps 



POTATOES 

Potatoes are a universal dish, and there are an 
infinite variety oE ways of cooking them: boiling, 
baking, frying, all manner of ways to suit all man- 
ner of people, and to accompany all kinds of meats. 
Yet, strange as it may seem, it is the food usually 
the worst cooked of any that is presented. The po- 
tatoes are too often soggy, greasy, blackened, burned. 
The poor cook seems determined to destroy both the 
favor and flavor of this useful vegetable. The po- 
tato is mostly starch, and it is not as well known as 
it should be that the principle of cooking starch is 
to cook it only until the starch grains burst, and then 
remove it from moisture, for the starch grains, when 



LUNCHEONS 27 

open, readily absorb moisture and become soggy. 
Hence we see this vegetable a most delicious dish 
or one unfit to eat, according to the skill of the cook. 
Mashed potato is served from the simplest kitchen, 
but betrays the poor cook as quickly as a greasy soup. 
Sometimes one sees an attempt made to improve 
the appearance of this dish by pressing and smooth- 
ing it over the top. This makes a hard and compact 
mass of what ought to be a light and flaky substance. 
Often it is served in a deep dish, which is another 
mistake ; for the potato, when light and white, is 
tempting enough to serve on a flat dish where it may 
be seen. Potatoes that are to be served in this way 
should be mashed the moment they are cooked, and 
not set aside for a more convenient time. They may 
then be moistened with milk or cream and be sea- 
soned with butter, pepper, and salt, in measure to 
the richness desired, and whipped until, like the 
whites of eggs, they become white and spongy from 
the air imprisoned in the cells. Mashed potato may 
be served in a great variety of ways. It can be run 
through the menu from soup to salad; can be used 
for entrees, and can make ornamental fancy dishes 
out of even minces and stews. It is invaluable as a 
mask for broken dishes ; for instance, a leg of mutton 
can be made a presentable dish to serve a second time 
by filling the cut with mashed potato. In this case 
it must be molded to the shape of the roast and be 
painted with egg over the top, so it will take color 
and not betray the patch. Such expedients are at 
times admissible and should not be scorned. It has 
been wisely said that "if there is not economy in the 
kitchen there will soon be no kitchen." 

When potato is made into cakes, timbales, or cro- 



28 LUNCHEONS 

quettes, it must have egg mixed through it, else it 
will lose its form when cooked the second time. When 
used as borders for minces or creamed dishes, it can 
be turned into shape with a knife, be lightly pressed 
into a mold to give it form, or be pressed through a 
pastry-bag and tube into fancy forms. 

Frying is perhaps the method of cooking potatoes 
which requires the most skill. Fried balls, slices, or 
straws are always excellent with broiled meats, and 
at the same time are the best garnish for them. The 
height of skill is reached in the souffle. These small 
balloons are something of a marvel, and are seldom 
seen except from the hand of a French cook. The 
amateur seldom succeeds with this dish, yet it is one 
worthy of the practice which makes perfect. To pre- 
pare the delectable souffle, the potato is cut length- 
wise, or with the grain ; the slices nuist be one eighth 
of an inch in thickness and taken off with one clean, 
sharp cut, then trimmed to uniform shapes, either 
elliptical or round. The slices are soaked in cold 
water and dried with a cloth at the moment of cook- 
ing. They are immersed in fat just below the smok- 
ing-point, and cooked for five minutes, or until soft- 
ened ; are then drained and allowed to cool for a little 
time in an open oven, and then immersed a second 
time in fat which is very hot, when the slices at once 
puff and brown. They should be served at once. 

Potato straws are very attractive and seem so light 
and harmless that those who ordinarily reject fried 
dishes are tempted by them. They are cut length- 
wise of the tuber, first in slices about one eighth of 
an inch in thickness, and then into straws the length 
of the slices. They cook very quickly in smoking-hot 
fat, and must not be left in so long as to become 




NO. 10. UTENSILS. 

1. BiikiiiK sheet. 

2. Fontage or Swedish timbale irons. 

3. l'iir(''e sieve. 

4. Pastry brush. 

5. Two pastry bags made of rubber cloth, the larger one holding a star 

tvibe. 

6. Tubes for pastry bags with plain, rouud, and star openings of different 

sizes. The last four on the right are small tubes for icing cake in 
ornamental designs. 




NO. 11. BIFFERliNT MAYS OF TKEPARINO HUTTEK. 




NO. 12. CUTTERS AND MOLDS. 

1. A nest of long vegetable cutters making pencil-sliaped pieces of differ- 

ent sizes. 

2, 3, 4. Bread and cake cutters in the forms of a heart, a spade, and a 

clover leaf. 

5. Individual timbale molds. 

6. Pastry cutter for vol-au-vents. 

7. Form for molding lobster or fish chops. 

8. 9. Small plain round, and fluted cutters for tiny biscuits or for garnishes. 

10. A group of fancy cutters for sliced vegetables to be used in macedoine, 

in soup, or as garnishes. 

11. A smaller cutter used for truffles and hard boiled eggs. 

12. Cake cutter in form of crescent. 

13. Three vegetable scoops. 

14. Fluted knife for cutting fluted slices of vegetables, turnip cups, etc. 

15. A spatula, or dull edged flexible knife. 

16. Small molds for aspics or other jellies used for garnishing. 




NO. 13. KING MOLDS. 



LUNCHEONS 29 

brown and dry. They should be crisp and of a lemon 
color. The straws can be cut of a larger size if de- 
sired, and are especially pretty if cut with a fluted 
knife. 

It seems desirable to suggest to housekeepers the 
feasibility of making a specialty of cooking potatoes, 
and with them to give variety, which is so accepta- 
ble to those who sit at their board. Perhaps no other 
one thing is susceptible to so many changes, and is 
so simple to prepare, is so satisfactory when properly 
served, and withal so nutritious. It answers both 
the substantial and the esthetic requirements of the 
perfect meal ; it can be suitably served for break- 
fast, dinner, supper, and luncheon; it is within the 
reach of all. 

CREAM 

"Whipped cream often makes the best sauce for a 
dessert dish, and can be used as a garnish. Its use 
need not be considered an extravagance. A half- 
pint of double cream is all that is usually called for, 
this costs but ten cents, and often the use of cream 
saves the use of butter, in the same way that water 
can sometimes be substituted for milk if a little 
butter is added to the receipt to give the richness 
which milk imparts. 



CAKE 

Decorating cakes takes a little time, but facility is 
soon acquired, and the time is not misspent, as the 
cakes, before being served, can be used to ornament 
the table. 



30 LUNCHEONS 

THE PASTRY-BAG 

The pastrj'-bag is a cornucopia-shaped pocket 
made of rubber cloth, of duck, or of any closely 
woven fabric like ticking. The point of the cornu- 
copia is cut off and a tin tube pressed into the small 
opening. The bags made of rubber cloth are the best, 
as they do not allow moisture to come through, and 
are easily cleaned. They cost fifteen cents each, and 
can be bought at house-furnishing stores, but bags 
can be easily made at home. 

The tubes cost ten cents each, are of graduated 
sizes, and have various-shaped openings. 

The pastry-bag is easy to handle, and is of great 
utility where ornamental dishes are desired. It is 
used for mashed vegetables, meringues, whipped 
cream, drop cake mixtures, icing, etc. 

A tube, with opening of suitable size, is fitted into 
the small end of the bag, the mixture is then put in, 
and the bag, gathered over close to the material, is 
held and pressed with one hand while the tube is 
guided with the other, leaving the material squeezed 
through it in the forms desired. It needs but very 
little practice to make ornamental designs. It is 
well to have at least two bags, one of them large, with 
a large tube, to hold mixtures used in quantity, and 
one small for decorating with icing. 



FONTAGE CUPS 

1 cupful of flour, 
^ teaspoonful salt, 
Yolks of 2 eggs, 
Milk or water. 



LUNCHEONS 31 

Add enough milk to a cup of flour to make a thin 
batter, then add the salt and the beaten yolks. The 
batter must be smooth and quite thin. Use a small 
bowl deep enough to immerse the fontage iron. 

Have deep fat smoking hot. Place the iron in the 
fat to heat it. Dip the hot iron into the batter, 
covering it to within a quarter of an inch of the 
top ; the batter will rise and cover the whole iron. 
Hold the iron in the batter for a minute, or until 
a little of the batter has hardened around it, then 
lift it carefully, holding the iron so the batter will 
not slip off. Immerse it in the hot fat and cook until 
light-colored. 

After a few trials one will be able to make the 
cups even and thin. They are also called Swedish 
timbales, and are used for holding any kind of 
creamed mixtures, or for holding vegetables. They 
can be used as an entree, or for garnishing other 
dishes. The cups will keep for some time, but in 
this case should be freshened by heating before be- 
ing used; and, as they soften quickly, the mixture 
should not be replaced in them until the moment 
of serving. Illustration No. 10 shows fontage irons. 

DIFFERENT WAYS OF PREPARING BUTTER 

Numbers one, two, and three are made by pressing 
butter through a pastry-bag with star-tube. In No. 
1 it is cut in three-inch lengths ; in No. 2 it is 
pressed into long pencils and cut when cold into one- 
inch lengths; and in No. 3 it is made into rosettes 
by holding the tube still until the butter has piled 
up to the size desired. These are good forms for 
fresh butter, and they should be made as soon as the 



32 LUNCHEONS 

butter is churned and worked, as it is soft enough 
then to pass through the tube. If salted butter is 
used, it must be whipped with a fork until it is soft 
and light before being pressed through the bag. The 
forms must be dropped at once into ice-water to 
harden them. Serve the pieces in a dish with cracked 
ice and green leaves. Parsley will do if nothing 
better is at hand. Rose leaves are especially pretty, 
or a lettuce leaf may be used as a kind of basket. 

No. 4 are shell-shaped pieces made with a bent, 
fluted utensil made for the purpose (see illustration 
No. 5, opposite page 256, "Century Cook Book"). 
The utensil is dipped in hot water, wiped dry, and 
then drawn lightly over the butter, making a thin 
shaving which curls over as the utensil is drawn 
along. The crook must be dipped in hot water and 
wiped clean each time. 

Butter molded into fancy shapes and served in 
this way is very attractive. 

MEASURES AND TERMS 

1 cupful means half a pint. 

1 teaspoonful of salt or spices means an even 
teaspoonful. 

1 tablespoonful of flour, butter, etc., means a 
rounding spoonful. 

Saute means to cook in a pan with a little butter 
or drippings. 

Frying means cooking by immersion in hot fat. 

Blanching almonds means taking off the skins. 

This is done by letting them lie in boiling water 
until the skins are loosened. 

Blanching sweetbreads means whitening them by 




NO. 14. PAPER FRILLS. PAPER BOXES. CAKE DECORATIONS. 

1. Pleated paper frill for coiicealins: a baking dish. 

•2. Frill for leg-of-mutton bone. 

3. Frills on "wooden toothpicks for croquettes. 4. Frills for chop bones. 

5. Board holding on a lace paper confectioners' roses, of difiercnt colors, 

and other tlowers for decorating cake. 

6. Paiier box holding silvered candy pellets for decorating cake. 

7. Paper boxes for ice.s, or mixtures of creamed meats, or eggs. 

8. Paper boxes for holding small iced cakes or candied fruits. 




6 789 

NO. 15. CASSEROLES AND BAKING DISHES. 

1. A white china dish for holding creamed oysters, etc., or to hold a 

smaller dish which has been iu the oven. 

2, 3. Oblong and round baking dishes of glazed jtottery, brown on the out- 

side, white in the inside, which can be sent to the tabic. 
4. Pipkin, to use the same as a casserole. .5. Casserole. 

6, 7. Brown- ware dishes for shirred eggs. 
8. China cups for individual creamed dishes. 9. Small casserole. 




NO. 16. IC'K PLANE. 




NO. 17. HOKS D'OEUVRES. 

Hors d'oeuvres are relishes wliich are passed between tlie courses. 

1. Olives. 

2. Small heart stalks of celery and radishes in the same dish. 

3. Curled celery. The celery is cut in two-inch lengths, which are scored 

across the ribbed side and then cut in narrow strips down to a quarter 
of an inch of one end. The pieces are then placed in cold water to 
make them curl. 

4. Radishes cut in fancy shapes. 

5. Pim-olas (olives stuffed with red peppers). 



LUNCHEONS 33 

pouring cold water on them immediately after the 
hot water is poured off. 

A scale and a half-pint tin cup are indispensable 
cooking utensils, as the success of many dishes de- 
pends on exact weight and measurements. 

Except in a few cases, receipts given in "Century 
Cook Book" are not repeated here. 

ORDER OF COURSES 

First Course Fruits 

Cocktails 

Canapes 

Oysters on the half shell 

Clams on the half shell 
First or Second Course Soup 
First, Second, or Third 

Course Eggs 

Fourth Course Shell-fish 

Lobsters 

Fish 
Fifth or Seventh Course -Entrees 
Sixth Course Meats 

Vegetables 

Cereals used as vegetables 

Chicken 
Seventh Course Punches 

Fruit 

Cheese dishes 

Entrees 
Eighth Course Game 

Salads 

Cold service 

Cheese 



34 


LUNCHEONS 


Ninth Course 


Hot desserts 




Cold desserts 




Pies 




Tarts 


Tenth Course 


Ices 




Cake 


Eleventh Course 


Fruits 




Candies 


Twelfth Course 


Black coffee 




Tea 




Liqueurs 



BEVERAGES SERVED AT LUNCHEON 

Table waters 

Cups 

Wines 



Chaptek II 
FIRST COUESE 

FRUITS 



FRUITS 



Oranges 

Salpicou of fruits on glass plate 

Salpicon of fruits in glasses 

Grape-fruit 

Strawberries on iiHlividiial jilntos 



Individual pineapples 
Currants on individual plates 
Prostod currants 
Muskmclon 



COCKTAILS, CANAPfiS, OYSTERS, CLAMS 

(!anapes of caviare 
Oysters on the half shell 
Clams on the half shell 
Bread and butter sandwiches with 
oysters and clams 



Clam cocktails 

Oyster cocktails 

Anchovy eggs 

Salmon canapes, heart-shaped 

Anchovy canapes 



FRUITS 

No. 1. Oranges. Cut off the tops of the oranges. Scrape out 
the pulp and draw a narrow ribbon through each 
top, passing the two ends through witli a bodkin and 
tying them on the under side. Drawing through the 
ribbon soils it. Tie a bow on top. 

Loosen the pulp of the orange, using a silver knife, 
so it can be eaten with a spoon. Add a little sugar 
if necessary, and a teaspobnful of sherry, if desired. 

No. 2. Salpicon of fruits. Place in the center of a glass plate 
some pieces of the pulp of an orange or grape-fruit, 
or both mixed together. Arrange around them a 
double row of white grapes cut in halves and with 
the seeds removed. 

Salpicon of fruits in glasses. This is a mixture of 
fruits such as grape-fruit, grapes, oranges, bananas, 
and pineapple, or any combination convenient. Di- 
vide the oranges and grape-fruit into sections, then 
carefully take off the skins and remove the seeds. 
Leave the pulp in large pieces ; add enough sugar to 
sweeten and a little sherry if desired. Cut the grapes 
in halves and remove the seeds. Place the mixture 
in individual glasses and add two or three candied 
cherries to each glass. 

Grape-fruit. Prepare grape-fruit as directed above. 
Sweeten it and make it very cold. Place it in indi- 
37 



38 LUNCHEONS 

vidual glasses with a candied cherry in the center. 
At the last moment add a teaspoonful of cracked ice 
to each glass. 

Strawberries. Press powdered sugar into a small cup 
or glass to mold it. Turn the sugar into the center 
of a dish and arrange around it carefully selected 
strawberries. Leave the hulls on the berries and 
serve in individual portions. 

Individual pineapples. Cut small pineapples in two. 
Cut the ends so the pieces will stand straight. Cut 
out the centers and tear the pulp into pieces, then re- 
turn it to the cups formed by the skins. Sweeten with 
powdered sugar; add a tablespoonful of sherry, if 
desired, to each portion. Let them stand a little while 
to extract the juice. At the moment of serving add a 
teaspoonful of cracked ice to each cup. Serve as a 
first course at luncheon, or before the game at 
dinner. 

A variety called strawberry pines are best suited 
for this dish. They are sometimes so small that a 
whole one may be used as one portion. 

Currants. Make a mound of sugar as directed for 
strawberries. Place around the sugar bunches of 
cherry currants, as in No. 1, or pile them on grape 
leaves as in No. 2. White and red currants may be 
placed in the same dish. Serve in individual portions 
as first course at luncheon or at breakfast. 

Frosted currants. Stem large cherry currants. Put 
them in a dish Vv^ith a quantity of granulated sugar 




NO. 18. 1. S.XLPICOV OF FRUIT ON GLASS PLATK. 2. ORANGE. 




NO. 19. INDIVIDUAL DISH OF STRAWBERRIES. 




NO. 20. INDIVIDUAL DISHES OF STRAWBERRY PINEAPPLES. 




NO. 21. INDIVIDUAL DISHES OF CURKANTg. 




NO. 22. FROSTICD CUKRANTS. 




hu. -s.i. .ml>.kmi-:l()n. 



LUNCHEONS 39 

and shake them together. The moisture of the cur- 
rants will cause enough sugar to adhere to completely 
cover them. Turn them off the sugar and serve 
at once before the sugar loses its dryness. Serve 
them on leaves in individual portions, or pass them 
as a first course at luncheon or breakfast. This is a 
very pretty way of serving currants. 

Muskmelon. The muskmelon should be very ripe 
and very cold. Cut the melons in two and serve 
with cracked ice in each half. If the melon is not 
too large serve a half as one portion. Serve on indi- 
vidual plates, or pass as first course for breakfast, 
luncheon, or dinner. Pass salt and sugar. 

For other arrangements of fruits see "Century 
Cook Book, "page 529. 



CLAM OR OYSTER COCKTAILS 

Use small Little Neck clams or small Blue Point oysters. 

To each 8 or 10 clams or oysters use : 

One tablespoonful of tomato catsup, 

Two tablespoonfuls of Chili sauce, 

One half teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, 

A dash of tabasco or of paprika, 

One tablespoonful of clam or oyster liquor. 

The juice of one quarter of a lemon. 
Mix the sauces and let the clams or oysters stand in them 
for an hour before serving. 

Serve in small glasses as a first course. 



40 LUNCHEONS 

ANCHOVY EGGS 

Cut hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise, using a thin- 
bladed, sharp knife. Have the eggs boiled twenty-five min- 
utes so the yolks will be crumby. 

Remove the yolks, mash them, and mix them with mayon- 
naise and the trinnnings of the anchovies. Just before serv- 
ing, fill the white halves with the yolk mixture, covering the 
whole top, heaping it in the middle and leaving a rough 
surface. Trim anchovies to the right length and lay two 
of them crossed over the top of each egg. Set each piece 
on a round of bread sauted in butter. Slice a little piece off 
the bottom of the egg to make it stand firm. 

Serve on individual plates. 

Anchovies preserved in oil are put up in small bottles and 
can be purchased from a grocer. 



HEART-SHAPED SALMON CANAPES 

Cut very light bread into slices one quarter of an inch 
thick. Stamp them with a cutter into heart shapes. Spread 
them thinly on both sides with butter and put them in the 
oven to brown ; or saute them in butter. Let them cool, then 
lay on each one a slice of Nova Scotia smoked salmon, cut as 
thin as possible. Place around the edges of the heart a 
border of chopped white of hard-boiled eggs, and a little 
crumbed yolk just at the upper point of the heart, making 
a round spot. The salmon must not be entirely covered with 
egg, so that the hearts may show three colors. Serve on in- 
dividual plates, with a small piece of parsley at the rounded 
end. 

Nova Scotia salmon can be bought at delicatessen stores. 




NO. 24. ANCHOVY EGGS. 




NU. 25. UKART-I^UArED SALMON CANAl'KS 




NO. 26. OYSTERS AND CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL. 



LUNCHEONS 41 

ANCHOVY CANAPES 

Cut fresh bread into slices quarter of an inch thick, then 
into rounds two and a half inches in diameter. Spread the 
rounds of bread with butter, season with a little salt, pepper, 
and mustard. 

Split and trim the anchovies to uniform length and ar- 
range them on the bread in rosette form. Fill the spaces 
between the anchovy fillets with the chopped white and the 
crumbed yolk of hard-boiled eggs and make a border around 
the bread with the white. Use a little chopped parsley in the 
decoration. 

For other canapes, see "Century Cook Book," page 368, 

CANAPES OF CAVIARE 

Cut very light bread into slices ([uarter of an inch thick, 
then into rounds or squares two inches across. Saute them 
in butter on one side. When they are cold spread them with 
a thin covering of caviare moistened with a little oil and 
lemon juice. Place on the top of each one a very thin slice 
of lemon. 

Caviare is the fermented roe of the sturgeon. It is a 
dish much esteemed in Kussia, but the taste for it is not very 
general in other countries, so discretion should be used in 
serving it. 

It comes in small jars and can be obtained at grocers'. 

OYSTERS OR CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL 

Raw oysters and clams are served on the "half shell" for 
a first course. Blue Point oysters and Little Neck clams are 
the varieties preferred. The smallest ones, and those uni- 
form in size, should be selected. They should be opened 



42 LUNCHEONS 

only a short time before serving. The muscle holding the 
mollusk to the shell is cut and the oyster or clam is served 
on the deep valve. 

Arrange the clams or oysters symmetrically in a circle, 
the beaks turned to the center, on a bed of cracked ice. Place 
in the middle a quarter of a lemon cut lengthwise, the top 
edge shaved off and the seeds extracted. Rest the piece of 
lemon on a sprig of parsley or any green leaf. 

Condiments, thin brown bread and butter sandwiches, and 
biscuits are passed with this course. 

The condiments (horseradish and tomato catsup, black 
and red pepper) may be placed on a dish, and the bread and 
biscuits arranged around them as in illustration. 



Chapter III 

SECOND COURSE 

SOUPS 



SOUPS 

Consomni6 of Beef Cream of Clams 

Consomme of Chicken Cream of Oysters 

Clam Brotli Cream of Spiiiai-h 

Clam Bisque Cream of Celery 



SOUPS 

Soups used for luncheon are served in cups. Any kind of 
soup can be used, but those siven below are the ones generally 
employed. For other soups, see "Century Cook Book," 
page 97. 

CONSOMME OF BEEF 

Cut into pieces four pounds of beef taken from the under 
part of the round, and the meat cut from a knuckle of veal. 
Put them into a soup pot with two tablespoonfuls of butter 
and let them brown on all sides. Then add a cupful of 
water and let it fall to a glaze. This is to give color to the 
soup. Add five and a half quarts of cold water. Let it boil 
slowly for five to six hours. An hour before removing it add 
soup vegetables, a tablespoonful of salt, fifteen peppercorns, 
three cloves, two bay-leaves, a little thyme, marjoram, and 
summer savory. 

Strain the soup through a cloth and let it cool without 
covering. When it is cold take off the grease. As no bones 
were boiled with the soup, it will be clear; and as the meat 
was browned, it will have a good color. 

It can be made perfectly clear as follows : Pour the soup 
off the sediment which has fallen to the bottom of the dish. 
Stir into it while it is cold the whites of two eggs beaten 
enough to break them. Place it on the fire and stir it until 
it comes to the boiling-point ; the egg will then be cooked and 
have imprisoned any j)articles which clouded the soup. 
Let it boil violently for a few minutes, then draw it to the 

45 



46 LUNCHEONS 

side of the range. Strain it again through a cloth. Heat it 
again before serving it. 

In summer this soup is sometimes served cold in the form 
of jelly. In this case the bone of the knuckle of veal must 
be cooked with it in order to make it jelly. Care must be 
taken that during the cooking the water only simmers, for 
if it boils lime will be extracted from the bone and it will 
be impossible to have a clear soup. 

CONSOMME OF CHICKEN 

Place a fowl in a soup pot with four quarts of cold water 
and let it come slowly to the boiling-point, then draw it to 
the side of the range and let it simmer for five or six hours. 
If it is allowed to boil the soup will be clouded by lime ex- 
tracted from the bones. 

An hour before removing it add an onion, a branch of 
celery, a tablespoon of salt, and six peppercorns. Strain it 
through a cloth, and when cold remove the grease. Clear it 
the same as the beef consomme. 

A knuckle of veal may also be used with this soup if a 
jellied stock is wanted to serve cold. 

CLAM BROTH 

Boil clams in their own liquor for twenty minutes. Let 
the liquid settle before pouring it off. Season it with pepper 
and serve it very hot in cups, with a teaspoonful of whipped 
cream on the top of each cupful. About two dozen clams 
will give a quart of liquor. 

CLAM BISaUE 

Boil a pint of clams in their own liquor. Chop the clams 
very fine and return them to the fire with the clam liquor, 



SOUPS 47 

a quart of soup stock (chicken or veal stock preferred), half 
a cupful of uncooked rice, a sprig of parsley, and a bay-leaf. 
Boil until the rice is tender, then strain the soup through a 
puree sieve, pressing through as much of the clams and rice 
as possible. Strain a second time. Just before serving, 
heat it, add a cupful of cream, and beat the whole with an 
egg-whip. 

CREAM OF CLAMS 

Steam twenty-five clams and as soon as they open remove 
them from the shells and strain off the liquor. Chop the 
clams, pound them in a mortar, and rub as much of them as 
possible through a puree sieve. Put three cupfuls of milk 
into a double boiler, cook two tablespoonfuls of butter and 
two tablespoonfuls of flour together, but do not let them 
brown, then add to the cooked butter and flour a little of the 
milk from the boiler to make a smooth paste, put the paste 
into the milk in the double boiler, and stir the mixture until it 
is a little thickened. When ready to serve add two cupfuls of 
clam liquor and the pulp which has passed through the sieve. 
Let it get hot, but do not let it boil or it will curdle. Season 
with salt, if necessary, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. At 
the moment of serving add a cupful of cream and beat the 
whole well with an egg-whip. This receipt makes a quart and 
a half of soup. 

CREAM OF OYSTERS 

Prepare the same as the Cream of Clams. 

CREAMED SOUPS 

Any vegetable pulp can be used for creamed soups after 
the rule given for Cream of Spinach. 



48 LUNCHEONS 

CREAM OF SPINACH 

Boil spinach until tender, then drain it. Chop it and rub 
it through a puree sieve. To two cupfuls of vegetable pulp 
add a quart of soup stock, or a quart of milk, or half stock 
and half milk. Rub together a tablespoonful of butter and 
two tablespoonfuls of flour. Put this into the soup on the fire 
and stir all together until the soup is a little thickened. Sea- 
son it with pepper and salt and add a half or a whole cup- 
ful of cream. Beat it well with an egg-whip and serve at 
once. If the soup is too thick dilute it with a little stock or 
milk. It should have the consistency of cream. 

CREAM OF CELERY 

This is prepared in the same manner as the Cream of 
Spinach, using celery pulp instead of spinach. The roots 
of the celery as well as the stalks should be boiled to make 
the pulp. 



Chapter IV 
THIRD COURSE 

EGGS 



EGGS 



Plain French Omelet 
Beaten Omelet 
Omelet Chasseur 
Eggs a la Eomaine 
Eggs baked in Tomatoes 
Eggs baked in Green Peppers 
Scrambled Eggs with Tomato 
Creamed Poached Eggs 



Creamed Egg Baskets 
Poached Eggs ■with Greens 
Eggs in Nests 
Eggs Farci, No. 1 
Eggs Farci, No. 2 
Eggs with Giblet Sauce 
Eggs a 1 'Aurore 
Scrambled Eggs with Brains 



EGGS 

Egg dishes are especially useful for luncheon, as they 
are easily and quickly prepared, are always liked, and can 
be served in a great variety of ways. They may be used as 
a first course, or in the order named in the list. 

TO POACH EGGS 

Drop the eggs into water just off the boiling-point. Let 
them cook slowly until the whites are like jelly, but not un- 
til hard. Muffin-rings may be used to keep them in good 
shape. 

TO POACH EGGS IN FRENCH STYLE 

Use a large saucepan and have it two thirds full of water. 
Add a tablespoonful of vinegar. When the water boils 
stir it with the handle of a wooden spoon until it whirls, 
then drop quickly a fresh egg into the depression or eddy 
of the whirling water. This will give the egg a rounded 
shape. When the white is set and before the yolk has hard- 
ened, remove the egg with a skimmer and place it on a dish 
to drain. Only one egg at a time can be cooked in this way. 
Trim the eggs carefully, cutting aw^ay all the ragged white. 

TO SCRAMBLE EGGS 

Add a tablespoonful of milk, a saltspoonful of salt, and a 
dash of pepper for every two eggs. Beat them just enough 
to break them, but not enough to make them smooth or 

51 



52 LUNCHEONS 

frothy. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saute-pan, and 
when it bubbles turn in the eggs. With a fork scrape the 
cooked eggs from the bottom of the pan, giving flakes of 
cooked egg. If the butter is not allowed to brown, the eggs 
will have a clean, bright yellow color. 



PLAIN FRENCH OMELET 

Add a tablespoonful of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt, 
and a dash of pepper to three or four eggs. Beat them just 
enough to break them. Put a tablespoonful of butter into 
a clean, smooth saute-pan. When the butter bubbles turn in 
the eggs. When the eggs are a little set on the bottom, tip 
the pan a little towards the handle, and with a fork stir 
the mixture on the handle half of the pan, lifting the cooked 
portion off the bottom in large flakes. When the mixture 
is all cooked, but still soft, pile the scrambled part on to the 
smooth half, making it high in the center. Turn the omelet 
on to a hot dish. This should give a smooth outside surface 
of egg, covering the softer inside portion, which is scrambled 
in large flakes. It is not well to make an omelet of more 
than three or four eggs. If more is needed, make a second 
omelet. 

BEATEN OMELET 

Beat the whites of three or four eggs to a stiff froth. Add 
to the yolks a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and 
a tablespoonful of milk. Beat them well together, then fold 
in lightly the whipped whites. Put a teaspoonful of butter 
in a saute-pan and let it run all over the bottom. When it 
bubbles turn in the egg mixture and spread it evenly over the 
pan. Let it cook slowly without stirring until it seems 
cooked through, then place it in the oven for a few minutes 




4 



NO. 27. BOUILLON CUP WITH SIPPETS OF TOAST AND ITALIAN BREAD STICKS. 




NO. 28. OMELET CHASSEUR. 




NO. 29. 1. EGGS A LA ROMAIXE. 2. EGGS BAKED IN TOMATOES. 
3. EGGS BAKED IN GREEN PEPPERS. 4. SCRAMBLED EGGS M'lTH TOMATOES. 



EGGS 53 

to harden the top surface. Fold one half over the other 
and turn the omelet on to a hot dish. 



OMELET CHASSEUR 

Make either a French or a beaten oiuel(;t. Before folding 
it, place in the center some well-seasoned or creamed minced 
chicken, or other meat. Fold the omelet and turn it on to a 
dish. Cover the top with well-seasoned tomato. The tomato 
should be dry enough to hold its place, leaving a border of 
yellow egg between the tomato and the meat. 

No. 1. Eggs k la romaine. Cut sliced bread into rounds and 
saute them in butter. Place on each one an arti- 
choke bottom which has been heated in hot water. 
On the artichoke place an egg poached in the French 
style (see page 51). Arrange the eggs around a 
mound of green peas, and pour over the eggs a white 
sauce made partly of chicken stock, with the yolk 
of an egg beaten in the last thing. 

No. 2. Eggs baked in tomatoes. Select round tomatoes of 
uniform size. Cut off the stem ends and take out 
enough of the pulp to leave a space as large as an 
egg. Sprinkle the inside with salt and pepper. Drop 
into each one an egg. Place the filled tomatoes in a 
baking-dish with a little hot water, and bake them 
about fifteen minutes, or until the eggs are set and 
the tomatoes are a little softened. Serve the eggs on 
rounds of bread browned in butter. No sauce is re- 
quired with this dish. 

No. 3. Eggs baked in green peppers. Select green peppers of 
uniform size and shape. Cut off the stems close to the 



54 LUNCHEONS 

peppers so they will stand firmly. Take off the tops 
and remove the seeds and ribs. Parboil them. Re- 
move them from the water as soon as they are a little 
tender, and before they become limp. Break an egg 
into each one. Set them in a baking-pan with a little 
hot water, and bake them slowly about fifteen min- 
utes, or until the eggs are set. Arrange them on 
rounds of browned bread with white sauce in the 
dish. 

No. 4. Scrambled eggs with tomato. Place scrambled eggs 
on rounds of browned bread, and on the top of each 
piece place a slice of broiled tomato (see page 97). 
Serve with or without a white sauce. 



CREAMED POACHED EGGS 

Poach eggs, the French style preferred. Lay them on 
rounds of bread sauted in butter. Arrange them symmetri- 
cally and pour over them a plentiful amount of white sauce 
made partly of stock, and having the yolk of one or two eggs 
stirred in after it is taken from the fire. Garnish the dish 
with a large bunch of parsley, or a bunch of nasturtiums. 

The dish may be varied by placing a very thin slice of 
broiled ham under each egg ; or the eggs may be covered with 
a tomato sauce. 

CREAMED EGG BASKETS 

Boil the eggs hard. Cut them in two lengthwise and re- 
move the yolks. Drop the whites into hot water so they will 
be warm when needed for use. Mash the yolks and mix them 
with a little white sauce, or with stock, or with cream and 
a little butter and salt. Beat the mixture until it is smooth 




NO. 30. CREAMED I'OACIIEI) ECiUS. 




NO. 31. CREAMED EGG BASKETS ON I5EAN PUREE. 




NO. 32. POACHED EGG.S WITH GREEN.S. 




NO. 33. SPANISH EGGS. 



EGGS 55 

and light. Press the paste through a pastry-bag and star 
tube into the hollows of the white halves, and insert handles 
made of thin slices of celery cut from the green ends. 
Arrange the little baskets on a bed of any kind of well- 
seasoned vegetable. 

In illustration the center is bean puree (see page 98) 
pressed through a pastry-bag. 



POACHED EGGS WITH GREENS 

Boil green leaves of lettuce until tender, drain them, chop 
them fine, and season with a little white sauce. Cover rounds 
of bread, which have been browned in butter, with the let- 
tuce ; or, if more convenient, with well-seasoned creamed 
spinach. Make nests of the green, leaving the edges of the 
toast clean, with a border one half inch wide around the 
depression. Place in each one an egg poached in the French 
style ; or break an uncooked egg into each hollow, and place 
them in the oven until the eggs are set. 



EGGS IN NESTS 

Whip to a stiff froth the whites of as many eggs as are 
needed. Pile it irregularly on a flat, buttered baking-dish, 
and make depressions in it here and there. Sprinkle the hol- 
lows with salt and pepper and drop into each one the yolk 
of an egg. Put a small piece of butter on each yolk. Place 
the dish in a moderate oven for five to eight minutes. Serve 
at once. 

The yolks can be conveniently kept in the half shells until 
needed. 



56 LUNCHEONS 

SPANISH EGQS 

Cover the bottom of an earthen baking-dish with well-sea- 
soned tomato puree. Arrange on it poached eggs, leaving 
spaces to show the red color. Lay between the eggs whole 
small sausages, already cooked, or sausages cut in inch 
lengths. Place a bit of butter on each egg and set the dish 
in the oven to heat it only. 

EGGS FARCI 

No, 1. Boil until hard as many eggs as are needed. Cut 
them in two lengthwise. Remove the yolks and 
mash them. To six yolks add four tablespoonfuls of 
crumb of bread, softened with water, one half tea- 
spoonful of onion juice, and two tablespoonfuls of 
chopped parsley. Mix well. Put a tablespoonful of 
butter in a saucepan on the fire, add the egg mixture 
with enough milk or stock to moisten it, but not 
enough to make it lose consistency. Season with 
salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. A mushroom or 
a chicken liver chopped fine added to the farce im- 
proves its flavor. Fill the whites of the eggs Avith the 
farce, and what is left make a mound on the 

serving-dish. Pour a white sauce over it and arrange 
the stuffed eggs on it; or cut the eggs in two cross- 
wise and fill the cups with farce, molding it to look 
like whole yolks. Cut a small slice oft' the ends so they 
will stand. Arrange them on a dish with white 
sauce around them. 

No, 2, Boil until hard a dozen eggs, cut them in two length- 
wise and remove the yolks. Place the whites in cold 
water to keep them white until ready to use them. 
Put in a chopping-bowl the breast of a fowl which 




NO. 34. EGGS FARCI, NO. 1. 




NO. 35. EGGS FAKCI, NO. 2. 




NO. 36. KGliS WITH (ilULiyr SAUCE. 




NO. 37. KGGS A 1/AUKOKIC IN CUPS. 



EGGS 57 

has been boiled for chicken stock, the yolks of the 
boiled eggs, two fresh mushrooms sauted, one half 
of a truffle, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, 
and two tablespoonfuls of crumb of bread. Chop 
all together to a fine mince. Place in a sauce- 
pan two tablespoonfuls of butter and a teaspoonful 
of onion juice. When the butter bubbles add the 
chopped mixture and moisten it with enough chicken 
stock to make it of the right consistency for filling 
the egg cups. Season it with two teaspoonf uls of salt, 
one half teaspoonful of pepper, and a dash of nut- 
meg, and stir until it is hot. Place the whites in hot 
water to heat them, then fill each one with the hot 
farce, rounding it to look like a whole yolk. 

Make a sauce as follows. Beat the yolks of two 
eggs enough to break them, stir them into a cupful 
of cream, and add this to the farce left after filling 
the cups. Stir it over the fire long enough to set the 
eggs. If not soft enough, add stock to make it the 
consistency of thick cream. Pour this sauce on a 
platter and arrange the stuffed eggs on it in lines or 
in circles. 

No. 3. With giblet sauce. Prepare eggs as in No. 1. Add 

chopped giblets to a brown sauce. Spread the sauce 
on a dish and place the stuffed eggs upon it. 



EGGS A L'AURORE 

Chop the whites of hard-boiled eggs into fine dice. Mix 
them with enough white sauce to make them creamy. Crumb 
the yolks by pressing them through a coarse sieve or a col- 
ander, and spread them over the creamed whites. 



58 LUNCHEONS 

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH CALVES' BRAINS 

To a pair of calves' brains use tliroo or four eggs. Scald 
the brains by letting them lie in scalding water six or eight 
minutes. Trim them and cut them into half-inch dice. Put 
them in a saute-pan with a tablespoonful of butter and cook 
them until they look white, then add the beaten eggs and 
stir them all together, using a fork, until the eggs are cooked. 
Add one half teaspoonful of salt and one quarter teaspoonful 
of pepper. 

For other egg dishes, see '^Century Cook Book," page 261. 



Chapter V 
FOURTH COURSE 

SHELL-FISH-LOBSTERS-FISH 



SHELL-FISH-LOBSTERS-FISH 



Sauted Oysters 

Fried Oysters with Cold Slaw 

Oysters a la Ncwburg 

Fried Scallops 

Scallops on the Shell 

Creamed Lobster 

Broiled Lobster 

Broiled Smelts 

Broiled Shad Eoc 



Shad Koe Croquettes 
2'"'illets of Fish, Fried 
Eolled Fillets of Flounder 
Baked Fillets of Fish with Sauce 
Fillets of Fish with Mushrooms 
Creamed Fish Garnished with Po- 
' tatoes 
Fish a la Japonnaisc 



sautUd oysters 

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saute-pan; when 
it is hot add as many drained oysters as will make two cup- 
fuls. Add a little salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of 
lemon juice. Shake them in the pan until the gills are 
curled, then add a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine. 
Turn them upon slices of toasted bread on a hot platter. 

FRIED OYSTERS WITH COLD SLAW 

Use box oysters. These are large in size and cost two cents 
each. 

Lay the oysters on a cloth to dry them. Roll them in 
cracker dust, then in egg diluted with a little milk and 
seasoned with pepper and salt, then again cover them with 
cracker dust. Lay them in a frying-basket and fry them 
in smoking-hot fat just long enough to give them a light- 
brown color. Oysters toughen if cooked too long. Prepare 
only four at a time, as more lower the temperature of the 
fat too much, and if they are rolled before the moment of 
frying they moisten the cracker dust. Place them on a paper 
on the hot shelf until all are done. 

Fold a small napkin and place it in the center of a cold 
platter. Pile the oysters on the napkin and make a wreath 
around them of cold slaw. 

COLD SLAW 

Cut cabbage into fine shreds. Put in a saucepan a half 
cupful of weak vinegar, the yolks of three eggs, a half tea- 

61 



62 LUNCHEONS 

.sixxjjil'ul oJ' Kut^lisli inustard, u dash of pepper, a teaspoon- 
i'lil of Kalt and of suf^ar. IBeat them together, then place them 
on the fire and stir until the mixture is thickened. Pour 
il,, whih' hot, over the cabbage and set it away to cool. 

OYSTERS A LA NEWBURG 

IMiU'c tvvciily-fivc liii'ji,(' oyslci-s in a saucepan with one 
and one half tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of white 
wine ov a, tablespoonful of lemon juice, and a little pepper 
and salt, (jook until tlu! oysters are plump, then add lialf a 
cupful of mushrooms cut into (piarters, and a chopped truffle, 
if convenient. Beat the yolUs of four eggs into a cupful of 
creain, tiii-n it into the oyster mixture, and let it get hot and 
a. little thick'cncd, without boiling. Turn it into a hot dish 
atid garnish with croutons. 

Oyslci-s toughen if (tookcd too long, and cream curdles 
easily when added to a mixture which has acid in it, so it is 
nectessary to prepai'e this dish (juickly and to serve it at once. 

SCALLOPS 

Scallops are the adductor muscle of a large pecten, a mol- 
lusk connnonly known as scallop. 

FRIED SCALLOPS 

]\Tai-inate Ihe scallops in a mixture of oil, lemon juice, salt, 
and [X'pper. Koll th(>m in eraeker dust, then in egg, and again 
in cracker dusi, or while bread crumbs. Fry them in smok- 
ing-hot fat to a golden coloi'. 

Prepare but a few at a time so the covering will not be 
dampened, serve on a napkin with quarters of lemon, and 
sprinkle over them parsley chopped very fine. 




NO. :j8. |.,(n:i, ovsti-kh wm, ,,>u, hi.aw. 




NO 3'J. CKKAMKO I.OliHlKi! 



/ 



SHELL-FISH — LOBSTERS — FISH C3 

SCALLOPS ON THE SHELL 

Discard the black ring. Cut the scallops into quarters. 
Place them in the scallop shells. Dredge them with salt, 
pepper, and chopped parsley, then cover them with a layer 
of chopped fresh, or canned, mushrooms, some bits of but- 
ter, a teaspoon fu! of white wine or of lemon juice, for each 
shell, and lastly with bread crumbs moistened with butter. 
Place them in a hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes. 

CREAMED LOBSTER 

Cut the meat of boiled lobster into inch dice. Put a table- 
spoonful of butter in a saucepan with a teaspoonful of grated 
onion, let them cook a minute, then add a tablespoonful of 
flour. Stir for a few minutes to cook the flour, and then add 
slowly a cupful of stock and a tablespoonful of lemon juice, 
or a quarter of a cupful of white wine. When all this 
thickens add the lobster meat, turning it carefully so as not 
to break it. When the meat is heated remove it from the 
fire and mix in a quarter of a cupful of cream which has the 
yolk of an egg beaten in it. Replace it on the fire for just a 
minute. 

Serve in fontage cups or as in illustration No. 39. 

For Lobster Newburg and other lobster dishes, see ''Cen- 
tury Cook Book," page 136. 

BROILED LOBSTER 

Parboil a lobster. As soon as it begins to turn red take it 
out. Split it in two down the back. Remove and discai-d 
the stomach and intestine. Remove the green and the coral. 

Broil it fifteen to twenty minutes with the shell side to the 
fire, but turn the flesh side to the coals for a minute before 
removing it, then at once season it with butter, pepper, and 
salt. 



64 LUNCHEONS 

INIix the green, which is tlie liver, and the coral with melted 
butter and use it as a sauce. 

BROILED SMELTS 

Select large smelts of equal size. Have them split down 
the back, the head and tail left on. Dip them in melted but- 
ter and broil them until they are tender. Lay them evenly 
on a hot dish and spread them with maitre d 'hotel butter 
(see page 103). 

If convenient, arrange a wreath of watercress around the 
dish. 

BROILED SHAD ROE 

AVash and dry the roes, then broil them very slowly and 
keep them moistened with butter to prevent the skin from 
breaking. They may also be cooked by sauteing them in but- 
ter ; or they may be baked in the oven with a little stock or 
water in the pan to baste them with. Cook them brown. 
Cover the top with butter, pepper, salt, and a little lemon 
juice, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley. Garnish 
vnth lemon and watercress and serve some of the watercress 
wnth each portion. Serve them with maitre d 'hotel butter. 

SHAD ROE CROQUETTES 

Boil shad roes in salted, acidulated water for fifteen min- 
utes, letting the water simmer only, so that the skin will not 
break. When they are cold cut them, using a sharp knife, 
into slices one and one half inches thick. Sprinlde them with 
salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Roll them first in egg, then 
in bread crumbs or cracker dust, and fry them in smoking- 
hot fat to a light brown color. Garnish with watercress and 
serve them with maitre d 'hotel butter. 




NO. 40. BROILED SMELTS. 




NO. 41. BROILED SHAD ROE. 




NO. 42. SHAD ROE CROQUETTES. 



SHELL-FISH— LOBSTERS— FISH 65 

FILLETS OF FISH 

Fillets of fisli are the flesh of the fish freed from the skin 
and bones. (See ''Century Cook Book," page 112.) The 
fillets of flounder are used to imitate sole, a variety of fish 
much esteemed in France and England. Sheepshead and 
other smaller fish also make good fillets. 

FRIED FILLETS OF FISH 

Marinate the fillets by letting them lie in a mixture of oil, 
salt, pepper, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. Take the 
fillets from the marinade, roll them first in flour, then in 
egg, and then in white bread crumbs grated from the loaf. 
Fry them to a lemon color in smoking-hot fat. They must 
not be cooked too long or they will become dry. They may 
also be cooked by sauteing, using half butter and half lard. 
Prepare one fillet at a time, for the covering of flour and 
crumbs will become damp if it stands long, and then will 
not crisp. If the fillets are small, serve them piled in crossed 
layers on a napkin and garnish with quarters of lemon. 
If they are large, serve with maitre d 'hotel butter or with 
tartare sauce and garnish with watercress. 

ROLLED FILLETS OF FLOUNDER 

Sprinkle each fillet with salt and pepper. Spread it with 
a mixture made of butter, lemon juice, and parsley cut in 
pieces, not chopped fine. Fold the fillet over, roll it, and 
fasten it with a wooden toothpick or small skcAver. Stand 
the rolled fillets on end in a baking-pan, put a piece of butter 
on the top of each one, and pour over the whole a half cupful 
of white cooking wine (California sauterne). Bake them 
in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, or until tender, and 
baste them frequently. Arrange the fillets symmetrically on 
a platter. Put a piece of parsley in the top of each one, and 

5 



66 LUNCHEONS 

place in the center of the dish a lemon cut into the shape of 
a basket. Sprinkle the exposed pulp of the lemon with 
chopped parsley. 

Make a sauce to serve with the fish as follows : Add to the 
drippings, in the pan in which the fish was cooked, a table- 
spoonful of flour, stir constantly until the flour is cooked, 
then add enough stock to make a creamy sauce. Add pepper 
and salt if necessary. 

BAKED FILLETS OF FISH WITH SAUCE 

Arrange evenly on a baking-platter fillets of flounder or 
of sheepshead, or slices of halibut or codfish cut one quarter 
of an inch thick. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper. 

Make a sauce as follows: Put a tablespoonful of butter 
in a saucepan, add to it a half teaspoonful of onion juice, 
cook until the butter has browned, then add a tablespoonful 
of flour and stir until the flour has browned. Take it off 
the fire and add very slowly one and a half cupfuls of soup 
stock, stirring constantly to keep the mixture smooth. Add 
a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine, a teaspoonful 
of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of salt, one half teaspoonful 
of pepper, and, if convenient, a teaspoonful of mushroom 
catsup, or a half cupful of liquor from a can of mush- 
rooms, or a half cupful of juice strained from a can of 
tomatoes. Pour the sauce over the fish, lifting the fillets a 
little to let the sauce run under them. Place the dish in the 
oven and cook for thirty minutes, or until the fish is tender. 
If the sauce dries away too much, baste the fish with stock. 
The cooked sauce should have the consistency of cream. 

Wlien taken from the oven sprinkle the top with bread 
crumbs browned in butter and ornament with mashed 
potato pressed through a pastry-bag and star tube, making 
a design that will cover the edges of the platter where the 
sauce has stained it. Set the hot platter on a second platter 
to serve. 




43. ROLLED FILLETS OF FLOUNDER. A PIECE OF PARSLEY PLACED 
IN THE TOP OF EACH ONE; A LEMON BASKET IN CENTER 
AND QUARTERS OF LEMON BETWEEN THE FILLETS. 




NO. 44. BAKED FILLETS OF FISH WITH MUSHROOMS. 




NO. 45. CREAMED FISH GARNISHED WITH POTATO. 




NO. 4(i. J'ISII A LA JAPONNAISE, rKlil'AUKI) FOR ISAKlNd AND 
SHOWING HOW IT MAY HE GAUNISHKI). 




NO. 47. SMCIOn lUCU.MHKU AUOUNl) A .MOUND Ol' ICI.. TO SI.KVK WITH 1T8H. 




NO. 48. imaItkk 1)'h6ti:l iturncu. 



SHELL-FISH— LOBSTERS— FISH 67 

Creamed hashed fish can be served in the same manner. 
After the fish has been mixed with the sauce spread it 
smoothly on the bal?ing-platter, cover the top with buttered 
bread crumbs, and set it in the oven to brown. 

FILLETS OF FISH WITH MUSHROOMS 

Take fillets of flounder, season them with pepper and 
salt. Take half a can or more of mushrooms, a slice of onion, 
and a sprig of parsley, and chop them all fine ; add a cupful 
of stock and a tablespoonful of sherry. Spread a part of this 
mixture on the bottom of a platter that can be used in the 
oven. Lay the fillets of fish on the mixture. Cover them 
with the rest of the mixture, then with bread crumbs and 
with small pieces of butter. Bake forty minutes or until the 
fillets are tender. Heat the rest of the mushrooms in a little 
stock. Place them around the edges of the dish and pour the 
stock over the whole if the fillets are at all dry. This dish 
should be very moist. 

CREAMED FISH GARNISHED WITH POTATOES 

Make a good white sauce, or any other sauce preferred. 
Cut cold boiled fish in pieces one or two inches across and 
heat them in the sauce without breaking them. Use a plenti- 
ful amount of the sauce. Turn the fish mixture on to a platter 
and sprinkle over the top a little parsley chopped very fine. 

Season some mashed potato with salt, butter, and milk, 
and beat it until it is light and white. Press it through a 
pastry-bag with star tube into rosettes, forming a wreath 
around the creamed fish. 

FISH A LA JAPONNAISE 

Make a creamed mince of any kind of fish, or use a fish 
forcemeat. Canned salmon is very good for the purpose. 



68 LUNCHEONS 

Place the creamed fish on a piece of stiff paper and mold 
it into the form of a fish. Roll some pie paste very thin. 
Lay a piece of the paste on one end of the mince and shape 
it into the form of a fish's tail. Cnt the paste into circles 
of half an inch diameter, nsing a pastry-tube if a small 
vegetable-cutter is not at hand. Beginning at the tail, cover 
the molded fish with little rounds of paste, placing them in 
even overlapping layers to imitate scales, and mold a piece 
of pastry to imitate a head and fins. Use half a cranberry 
or a turned vegetable to imitate an eye. Brush the paste 
over lightly with yolk of egg and place it in the oven to 
brown. Slip it carefully off the baking-sheet on to the serv- 
ing platter. Trim off the paper that projects and garnish. 

Illustration No. 46 shows a fish ready to bake and the man- 
ner in which it may be garnished. 



Chapter VI 
FIFTH OR SEVENTH COURSE 

ENTREES 



ENTREES 



Eissoles 
Vol-au-vent 
Sweetbreads, Baked 
Sweetbreads, Glazed 
Sweetbreads, Coquilles of 
Calf's Brains a la Poiilette 
Calf's Brains a I'Aurore 
Calf's Brains with HoUandaise 

Sauce 
Calf's Brains with Black Butter 



Croquettes 

Timbales of Chicken 

Timbales of Liver 

Mushrooms, Baked 

Mushrooms, Stuffed 

Tomatoes, Stuffed 

Green Peppers, Stuffed 

Baked Tomatoes and Fontage Cups 

Jardiniere 

Vegetarian Dish 



RISSOLES 

Roll puff paste about one eighth of an inch thick. Put 
a teaspoonful of meat of any kind at intervals on the paste, 
about three inches from the edge. Moisten the paste around 
the meat-ball, fold over the paste, and press it lightly around 
the meat. Stamp it with a fluted biscuit-cutter into half cir- 
cles, leaving the meat on the straight side and an inch of 
paste around the meat on the round side. , Egg the top and 
bake from fifteen to twenty minutes in a hot oven. 

VOL-AU-VENT 

Roll puff paste (see page 154) three quarters of an inch 
to an inch in thickness. Stamp it with a cutter, or if this 
is not convenient use a tin, of the size desired, for a gage ; 
lay the tin lightly on the paste, and with a sharp knife cut 
around it with a quick, firm stroke so as to press the paste 
as little as possible; then with a sharp-pointed knife cut a 
ring around the form, leaving a border about an inch wide, 
and do not let the knife penetrate the paste more than an 
eighth of an inch. Brush the top with the yolk of an egg, 
dilute it with a little water, and set it away to cool. Bake 
it in a hot oven as directed for puff paste for thirty minutes, 
and do not open the oven door during the first fifteen min- 
utes. It should rise to about three times its usual thickness. 
AVhen it is well dried and a good light-brown color, remove 
it from the oven and let it stand for a few minutes, then 
carefully lift out the centerpiece and remove all the un- 

71 



72 LUNCHEONS 

cooked paste. Set it in the oven again to dry the inside. 
The uncooked pieces can also be returned to the oven for 
a few minutes, and when dry be put back into the shell. 

Although puff paste is better when used at once, it will 
keep very well for several days, and will be perfectly crisp 
and tender if well heated in the oven just before being 
used. 

When ready to serve fill the center with any salpieon, 
place the little cover on top, and set the vol-au-vent on a 
lace-paper. The filling must not be put in until just before 
sending it to the table, as it will soften the pastry if it stands 
in it for any length of time. 

SALPICON 

For filling vol-au-vent or patty shells. 

Salpieon is made of cooked chicken, sweetbreads, veal, or 
calf's brains cut into small dice, mixed with mushrooms, a 
little chopped truffle and chopped tongue. One meat alone, 
or a combination of two or more, may be used. The mixture 
is then combined with enough good sauce to make it creamy. 
A white sauce should be used with white meats; a brown 
sauce when the dark meat and livers of chicken are used. 
^^See "Century Cook Book," pages 80-299.) 

A plain white sauce is made as follows : Put a tablespoon- 
ful of butter in a saucepan. When the butter is hot add a 
tablespoonful of flour and cook them together for a few min- 
utes, not letting them brown ; remove from the fire and add a 
cupful of stock. Add the liquor very slowly at first, stirring 
constantly to keep it smooth. Return the sauce to the fire, 
add a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper, 
and a little cream, if convenient. Stir constantly until the 
sauce is thickened. Lastly, add the beaten yolks of one or 
two eggs to the sauce after it has been taken off the fire. 




NO. 49. RISSOLES. 




NO. 50. VOL-AC-VENT. 




NO. 51. BAKED SWEETBREAD* Wini >.VLr PoKK UN TOP. 



ENTREES 73 

SWEETBREADS 

Sweetbreads are the thymus gland and the pancreas of 
calves and lambs. They are commonly called by butchers 
the throat and the stomach, or heart, sweetbreads. The 
former is the larger, the latter is the whiter, rounder, and 
more delicate. 

TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS 

Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for two hours, changing 
the water several times. Put them on the fire in cold water. 
When they are whitened and firm to the touch, or parboiled, 
remove and immerse them again in cold water to blanch them. 
Remove all the pipes, fibers, and fatty substance. Roll each 
one in a piece of cheese-cloth, draw the cloth tight and tie 
it at the ends, pressing the sweetbread into an oval shape. 
Place them under a light weight for several hours. 

BAKED SWEETBREADS 

Parboil and blanch the sweetbreads. Marinate them by 
standing them for two hours in a mixture of one beaten egg, 
a teaspoonful of onion juice, one half teaspoonful of salt, 
one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and one tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley. Turn them in the marinade occa- 
sionally so they will absorb the seasoning. Roll them in 
cracker dust and place them in a pan on very thin slices 
of salt pork, and place a thin slice of pork on top of each 
one. Bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes, or until 
they are tender and brown. The pork will crisp and the 
sweetbread will brown around it. 

Serve with a sauce made as follows: Brown a little flour 
in the drippings left in the pan, then add a little flour or 
stock, a little lemon juice, and what is left of the marinade. 



74 LUNCHEONS 

Stir it until it has the consistency of thick cream and strain 
it on to the platter. Place the sweetbreads upon the sauce. 

GLAZED SWEETBREADS 

Place sweetbreads, prepared as directed on page 73, in a 
saute-pan with butter and a few slices of onion. Saute 
them for a few minutes on both sides, then place them in 
the oven to finish cooking. Put a little stock in the baking- 
pan and baste them frequently to brown and glaze them. 
Serve them as in illustration, or place them around a pile of 
green peas. 

COaUILLES OF SWEETBREADS 

Parboil one pair of sweetbreads. Trim and put them under 
a light weight to cool. When they are cold and firm cut 
them into dice. Saute them in a tablespoonful of butter for 
a few minutes, then add a cupful of button mushrooms cut 
in quarters, a tablespoonful of white wine or of lemon juice, 
a dash of pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, and cook them 
until tender, then add a white sauce as given below, and turn 
over the mixture until it is creamy. Fill shells with the 
mixture, cover the tops with white bread crumbs wet with 
melted butter, and place them in the oven to brown. 

Chicken, turkey, or veal can be used instead of sweetbreads 
in the same way. 

Sauce : Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan ; when 
it bubbles, add a tablespoonful of flour. Cook the flour a 
few minutes, but do not let it brown. Remove it from the fire 
and add, while stirring all the time, a half cupful of stock, 
chicken stock preferred, a dash of nutmeg and of pepper, 
and a saltspoonful of salt. Put the saucepan on the fire 
again and stir until the sauce has thickened, then add two 
tablespoonfuls of cream. 




NO. 52. GLAZED SWEETBREADS. 




NO. 53. COQUILLES OF SWEETBREADS. 



ENTREES 75 

Any pretty bivalve shell of suitable size may be used for 
holding this or other creamed mixtures. The illustration 
shows pecten and cardium shells. 

TO PREPARE CALF'S BRAINS 

Calf 's brains, in whatever way they are to be served, must 
be prepared in the following manner: Soak the brains in 
cold water for some time to extract all the blood. Trim them, 
removing the membranes and fibers, without breaking the 
brains apart. Place them in hot water with a bay-leaf, soup 
vegetables, a few peppercorns, a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
tablespoonful of vinegar. Cook them for half an hour, let- 
ting the water simmer only. When done immerse them in 
cold water to blanch them. 

CALF'S BRAINS 

No. 1. A la poulette. Cut the brains in halves or quarters. 
Arrange them in a circle around mushrooms and 
pour over the whole a Avhite sauce made partly of 
stock, and the beaten yolks of two eggs with a little 
cream added after the sauce is taken from the fire. 
Garnish with croutons or cut the brains into large 
dice, mix them with the same sauce, and serve them 
in individual cups. 

No. 2. A Taurore. Cut the brains into dice ; add the chopped 
whites of three or four hard-boiled eggs to each pair 
of brains. Add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped 
very fine, and a saltspoonful of salt. Moisten with 
white sauce and place the mixture in a baking-dish. 
Cover the top with crumbed yolks, and over the yolks 
spread a thin layer of white bread crumbs wet with 
butter. Set the dish in the oven to brown the crumbs. 



76 LUNCHEONS 

No. 3. With HoUandaise sauce. Cut the brains in halves. 
Place each piece on a round of bread which has been 
browned in butter. Pour over the whole a HoUan- 
daise sauce, or a white sauce to which has been added, 
after taking it from the fire, the beaten yolk of an 
egg and a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine. 

No. 4. With black butter. Cut the brains into thick slices. 
Cook two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saute-pan until 
it is brown. Lay in the slices of brains and color them 
on both sides. Arrange them in a dish, sprinkle them 
with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Add a tea- 
spoonful of vinegar to the butter, and strain it over 
the brains. 

CROQUETTES 

Croquettes can be made of chicken or turkey or veal, alone, 
but are much nicer when the meat is mixed with sweet- 
breads or calf's brains and mushrooms. The meat mixture 
must be chopped very fine. 
Make a sauce as follows : 

Put a tablespoonful of butter and a half teaspoonful of 
onion juice into a saucepan. When it bubbles add two table- 
spoonfuls of flour and cook it a few minutes without brown- 
ing, then add slowly, so as to keep it smooth, 
A cupful of jellied stock, 
1 teaspoonful of salt, 
1 saltspoonful of pepper, 
A dash of paprika, 
A dash of celery salt, 
A dash of nutmeg. 
Cook until the sauce has thickened a little. Remove it 
from the fire, stir in a beaten egg and two cupfuls of minced 
meat. Turn it on to a tin platter and place it on the ice to set. 




NO. 54. CHICKEN CKOQUETTE8. 




NO. 55. TIMBALES OF CHICKEN. 



ENTREES 77 

When the mixture is set mold the croquettes into shapes 
pointed at one end. Cover them with egg diluted with a very 
little water, to break the stringiness of the whites, then cover 
them with bread crumbs. Crumbs grated from the loaf give 
a better color than dried crumbs composed partly of crusts. 
Fry the croquettes in smoking-hot fat to a light-brown color, 
and until a thin crust is formed. Place them on paper in the 
open oven to dry and keep hot until all are fried. Arrange 
them symmetrically on a platter and stick a paper frill into 
the pointed end of each one. These frills are fastened to a 
little stick. They can be bought at confectioners'. 

It is important to use for the sauce stock which jellies, as it 
hardens the mixture and makes it easy to mold, while it 
softens when the croquettes are fried, making them very 
creamy. Stock will jelly if a knuckle of veal is used in mak- 
ing it. If jellied stock is not at hand, put a level teaspoonful 
of soaked gelatine into a cupful of any stock or of milk. 

CHICKEN TIMBALES 

Lay raw chicken breasts on a board and scrape off the meat, 
thus separating it from the large fibers. Put the scraped 
meat in a mortar with the white of an egg and pound it to 
separate it still more from the fibers, then rub it through 
a puree sieve. 

Soak some crumb of bread with milk, stir it to a smooth 
paste, and cook it until it leaves the sides of the pan. This 
makes a panada. 

Take a half cupful of the fine chicken meat, a quarter of a 
cupful of panada, one egg, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash 
of pepper and of nutmeg. Beat them all well together, then 
fold in lightly a half cupful of cream whipped to a stiff 
froth. 

This quantity of material will make six individual tim- 
bales. 



78 LUNCHEONS 

Butter the timbale molds well, ornament them with slices 
of truffle cut into fancy shapes, or with chopped truffle 
sprinkled over the surface. Put the mixture into the molds 
carefully with a small spoon so as not to disarrange the 
decoration, and fill them to within a quarter of an inch of 
the top. Set them in a pan of hot water. Cover them with 
a greased paper and poach them in the oven for five to eight 
minutes, or until they are firm to the touch. 

Turn the timbales on to a flat dish and pour around them a 
white sauce made with chicken stock and the yolks of two 
eggs diluted with two tablespoonfuls of cream added the 
last thing. (See Allemande and Poulette sauces, "Century 
Cook Book," pages 279-280.) 

LIVER TIMBALES 

Cut two pounds of liver into large pieces and rub them 
through a grater. 

Moisten a half cupful of crumb of bread and a half cupful 
of flour with a cupful of milk. 

Fry the slices of half an onion in a tablespoonful of 
butter until they are tender, then remove them and turn into 
the pan the mixture of bread, flour, and milk. Stir until it 
is cooked to a smooth paste. 

Put into a bowl two cupfuls of liver pulp, the bread paste, 
a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a dash 
of paprika. Mix them well together and add, one at a time, 
four eggs, beating in each one well, then add enough cream 
to make rather a thin batter. Pass the whole through a 
puree sieve. Beat it well again and turn it into molds. 

This amount of mixture will fill twelve individual timbale 
molds and one pint mold, the latter to be used cold (see 
page 127). 

Fill the individual timbale molds to within a quarter of an 
inch of the top, set them into a pan of hot water, cover them 




KO. 56. BAKED MUSHROOMS »)N TOASl. THK BREAD STAMPED IN LEAF SHAPES' 




NO. 57. STUFFED TOMATOES. 



ENTREES 79 

with a greased paper, and poach them in the oven for fifteen 
to twenty minutes, or until firm to the touch. 

Turn the timbales on to a fiat dish and pour around them 
a little good brown sauce. The molds may be ornamented, 
if desired, the same as chicken timbales, using the white of 
hard-boiled eggs instead of truffles. 

For other timbale receipts, see "Century Cook Book," 
page 296. 

BAKED MUSHROOMS 

Cut the mushroom stems off even with the caps. Peel the 
caps and stand them on a dish with the gills up. Sprinkle 
them with pepper and salt and let them stand until moisture 
gathers on them. Cut sliced bread with a biscuit-cutter into 
rounds, or if convenient use a fancy cutter. Illustration 
shows bread cut with a leaf -shaped stamp. Dip the pieces 
of bread into water to moisten them, but do not let them 
get soggy. Place them on a baking-tin and sprinkle with 
pepper and salt and bits of butter. Arrange the mushrooms 
on them, one or more according to size, with the gills up. 
Bake about thirty minutes, or until tender. 

Watch them carefully so they will not get overdone or too 
dry. Baste with melted butter, if necessary, while they are 
baking. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS 

Cut the stems off close to the gills. Peel the caps. Cut the 
stems fine. Saute all the parts together in butter. Remove 
the caps when they are tender and before they lose shape. 
After the caps are removed add six drops of onion juice 
and a teaspoonful of flour. Let the flour cook a few min- 
utes and then add a quarter of a cupful of stock and a table- 
spoonful of minced chicken or livers, pepper, and salt, and 
stir until the mixture is thickened. 



80 LUNCHEONS 

Place a little of this mixture on the gills of each mush- 
room. This quantity is enough for six or eight large caps. 
Use the stuffed mushrooms for garnishing meat dishes, or 
serve them separately as an entree on rounds of bread 
which have been browned in butter. 

STUFFED TOMATOES 

Select smooth, round tomatoes of equal size. Cut a slice 
off the stem end. Remove carefully the pulp and fill the 
shells with any of the mixtures given below. Cover the top 
of the stuffing with bread crumbs moistened with melted 
butter. Bake them about one half hour, or until they are 
tender, but not fallen out of shape. Have a little water in 
the bottom of the baking-pan. Use them for garnishing meat 
dishes, or serve them on rounds of browned bread as an 
entree. 

STUFFING FOR TOMATOES 

No. 1. Chop fine a half cupful of canned mushrooms, add 
a half or three quarters of a cupful of crumb of 
bread and the pulp taken from six tomatoes, a table- 
spoonful of chopped ham or of chicken, if conve- 
nient, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, six drops 
of onion juice, a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, 
and a teaspoonful of melted butter. If the mixture 
is not sufficiently moistened by the tomato juice add 
enough stock to make it quite wet. 

No. 2. Use equal parts of minced meat (chicken or veal 
preferred) and crumb of bread, add the yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs. Season with chopped parsley, a lit- 
tle onion juice, pepper, and salt. Moisten with the 
pulp taken from the tomatoes, or with stock, or with 
both of them. 




NO. 58. BAKED STUFFED TOMATOES AND FONTAGE C0PS. 




NO. 59. .TAIiDINltliE. 




60. VEGETARIAN DISH. KING OF RICE FILLED WITH CORN. 
CUPS HOLDING LIMA BEANS. 



ENTREES 81 

No. 3. Use boiled rice mixed with chopped green peppers, 
a few drops of onion juice, pepper, and salt. Moisten 
with the pulp taken from the tomato, or with stock. 

No. 4. Boil macaroni, broken into half-inch lengths, until 
tender. Moisten it with well-seasoned white sauce, 
and add some grated cheese, a little pepper and salt, 
and a dash of paprika. 

STUFFED GREEN PEPPERS 

Select green peppers of equal size. Cut a piece off the 
stem end, or cut them lengthwise. Remove the seeds and 
ribs. Parboil them, stuff them with any of the mixtures 
given for stuffed tomatoes, using stock instead of tomato- 
pulp for moistening. Bake with a little water in a pan for 
fifteen to twenty minutes, or until they are tender, but not 
so long as to allow them to lose their shape. Sprinkle a little 
parsley chopped fine over the tops just before serving them. 

BAKED TOMATOES AND FONTAGE CUPS 

Place in the center of the dish stuffed tomatoes (see page 
80) and place around them f outage cups filled with eggs 
a I'aurore, as in illustration, or with any well-seasoned 
vegetable, or minced meat. Put a handle made of celery 
in each cup, to resemble a basket. 

Eggs a I'aurore are chopped hard-boiled eggs moistened 
with white sauce. 

JARDINIERE 

The illustration shows a variety of vegetables served to- 
gether, or a la jardiniere. 

This dish can be used as a course or vegetable entree, and 
is particularly appreciated where one has an abundance of 
fresh vegetables from the garden. The vegetables should 



82 LUNCHEONS 

be well seasoned and arranged with regard to color so as 
to give a pleasing effect. 

The combination used in the illustration is a cauliflower, 
green peas, string beans, lima beans, corn, macedoine, and 
baked tomatoes. 

VEGETARIAN DISH 

After boiling enough rice to fill a ring mold, steam it until 
it is quite dry, and until the grains are separated. Mix the 
rice with enough thick white sauce to moisten it. Butter a 
ring-mold well and sprinkle it thickly with white bread 
crumbs (crumbs grated from the loaf). Put in the prepared 
rice and place the ring in a pan, the bottom of which is cov- 
ered with a very little water. Cover the top with greased 
paper, and bake for half an hour, or until the crumbs are 
brown. Turn the browned ring on a platter. Fill the center 
with any vegetable, and place around the outside fontage 
cups holding a second vegetable. In the illustration the 
ring is filled with corn, and the cups hold small lima beans. 

A good combination is baked tomatoes alternating with 
fontage cups holding macedoine of vegetables, the ring hold- 
ing green peas. 

The same style of dish may be made with meat. The ring 
may be made with mashed potato and hold minced creamed 
meat. 



Chapter VII 
SIXTH COURSE 

MEATS 



MEATS 



Casserole of Beef 

Fillet of Beef 

Filets Mignons 

Filets Mignons with Tomatoes 
and Mushrooms 

Mutton Chops a la Soubise 

Mutton Chops with Horseradish 
Sauce 

Mutton Chops Boned, with Arti- 
chokes 

Mutton Chops Boned, with Mush- 
rooms 



Leg of Mutton a la Jardiniere 
Leg of Mutton Slices 
Cottage Pie 
Meat and Potato Pie 
Minced Meat with Potato Eings 
Minced Ham and Eggs 
Veal Chops 
Veal a I'ltalienne 
Veal Cutlets, Small 
Grenadines of Veal 
Pork Tenderloins with Fried 
Apples 



VEGETABLES AND CEREALS USED AS VEGETABLES 



Potatoes, Stuffed Baked 
Potatoes, Puree of 
Kice a la Milanese 
Baked Hominy 
Quenelles of Cornmeal 



Boiled Lettuce 

Tomato Farci 

Broiled Tomatoes 

Spinach 

Bean Croquettes 



CHICKEN 



Casserole of Chicken, No. 1 

Casserole of Chicken, No, 2 

Chicken, Panned ) Can he used in 
> placeof gamein 
Chicken, Smothered ^ ninth course. 



Chicken Fried in Cream 
Chicken Joints 
Chicken en Surprise 
Forcemeat 



White Sauce 
Brown Sauce 
Supreme Sauce 
Tomato Puree 
HoUandaise Sauce 



SAUCES 



Maitre d 'Hotel Butter 

Glaze 

To Make Glaze 

Hard Sauce 

Liquid Sauces 



CASSEROLE OF BEEF 

Saute three or four sliced onions in a tablespoonful of but- 
ter. Put them when soft into the casserole. Cut a steak, 
taken from the upper side of the round, into pieces suitable 
for one portion. Put them in the saute-pan and sear them on 
all sides, then put them in the casserole. Add a table- 
spoonful of flour to the saute-pan, let it brown, then add 
slowly a cupful and a half of water and stir until it is a little 
thickened, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a half tea- 
spoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 
Add, if convenient, a little Worcestershire sauce and a little 
mushroom catsup. The sauce should be highly seasoned, and 
such condiments as are at hand may be used. The sauce 
will be richer if stock is used instead of water. Turn the 
sauce over the meat, cover the casserole, set it in the oven 
and cook slowly until the meat is tender, then cover the top 
with parboiled sliced potato and return it to the oven for 
a few minutes to finish cooking the potatoes. The sauce 
should be of the consistency of cream, and there should not 
be a great quantity of it. Serve in the casserole. 

FILLET OF BEEF 

The fillet or tenderloin of beef is taken from the under 
side of the loin. It is the most tender and the most expensive 
cut of the beef, costing from eighty cents to a dollar a pound. 
The whole fillet is used as a roast. When sliced it is given 
different names. Cuts from the middle, which is the thick- 
est part, are Chateaubriands. The Chateaubriand is cut one 
and a half to three quarters of an inch thick, trimmed, tied 
into a neatly rounded shape, and struck lightly with the flat 

85 



86 LUNCHEONS 

side of the cleaver to smooth the top and reduce the thick- 
ness to one and a quarter or one and a half inches. It is 
cooked and served as a steak. 

The next pieces are the mignon fillets. These are pre- 
pared in the same way as the Chateaubriand and should be 
about one inch thick and from two and a half to three 
inches across when finished. They may be broiled or cooked 
on a hot pan. 

Cuts from the small ends are noisettes and turnedos ; the 
former are cut one half of an inch thick and cooked in a 
saute-pan ; the latter are cut one quarter of an inch thick, 
and are cooked in a saute-pan for five minutes only. The 
noisettes and turnedos should be brushed with glaze before 
serving (see Glaze, page 104). 

Grenadines are cut lengthwise from the thin end of the 
fillet and trimmed into chop-shaped pieces. They are larded, 
sauted in a little butter, and cooked five to eight minutes. 

FILETS MIGNONS 

Prepare and cook the fillets as directed above. Arrange 
them in a circle overlapping one another and fill the center 
of the circle with fried potatoes. Lay on each fillet a half 
slice of lemon sprinkled with chopped parsley. 

The center of the circle may be filled with potato, mashed, 
balls, puffed, straws, etc., or with a vegetable such as peas, 
beans, macedoine, etc. 

The fillets may also be served with a bearnaise or a mush- 
room sauce. 

FILETS MIGNON WITH TOMATOES AND MUSHROOMS 

Prepare the fillets as directed on this page. Have 
them of uniform size. Broil them over coals or on a hot pan. 
Turn them very often so they will cook slowly and when done 




NO. 61. FILLETS MIGNON8 ARRANGKD IN CIRCLK. HALF A SLICE OF LKMON 
ON EACH FILLET. FKIED POTATOES IN CENTER. 




NO. 02. FILLETS MIGNON8. EACH FILLET COVEUED WITH A SLICE OF IJROILED 
TOMATO AND A STUFFED MUSHROOM. FANCY SKEWER ON RIGHT OP DLSH. 



MEATS 87 

have an even red color all through. The broiling will take 
eight to ten minutes. Cover the tops with maitre d 'hotel 
butter (page 103), or butter, pepper and salt, and chopped 
parsley. Arrange them in a circle on one end of a platter. 
Place on each ona a slice of broiled tomato (see page 97), and 
on the tomato a stuffed mushroom (page 79). 

On one side of the platter place an ornamental skewer 
stuck into a shaped piece of uncooked vegetable of sufficient 
size. The skewer in illustration has a mushroom on top, then 
a slice of lemon, then a row of small carrots strung on a 
thread, a slice of Icmoi) lo hold th(3 carrots in place, and 
then the foliage of the carrots. It is stuck into a raw pars- 
nip cut so it stands firm. The skewer is for ornamenting the 
dish only. 

CHOPS A LA SOUBISE 

]*ut soubise sauce in the center of the dish and arrange 
broiled French chops standing in a ring around it. Place a 
ring of fried onion over each chop bone. 

French chops are cut from the rack and trimmed so as 
to leave the upper half of the bone bare. 

SOUBISE SAUCE 

Boil six white onions for ten minutes. Cut them in pieces, 
put them in a saucepan with one quarter of a pound of 
butter and cook them very slowly indeed for a long time or 
until they are soft. The onions must cook so slowly that 
they do not color. Add a tablespoonful of flour. After 
the flour is cooked remove the onions from the fire, add 
one cupful of cream, and pass the whole through a sieve. 
Add a very little pepper and salt. 

This sauce should be white and have the consistency of 
thick cream. 



88 LUNCHEONS 

CHOPS WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE 

Arrange French chops down the middle of the platter, 
with the chops overlapping and the bones crossing. Place 
a piece of bread under the first two to support and lift the 
bones off the dish ; the rest are then easily arranged in a 
symmetrical manner. 

Garnish the dish with spoonfuls of horseradish sauce, or 
serve the sauce in a separate dish. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE 

Grate fresh horseradish root and mix wath it enough 
whipped cream to make it light and to reduce sufficiently 
the sharpness of the horseradish. The horseradish absorbs 
the cream, and a few more spoonfuls of the cream are needed 
than of the grated horseradish. The sauce should not be 
mixed until just before serving. 

CHOPS GARNISHED WITH ARTICHOKES 

These chops are cut from the rack. They are cut an inch 
thick, the bones removed, and the meat turned and tied into 
round pieces. They are then struck with the flat side of the 
cleaver to smooth and flatten them a little. 

Broil the chops, spread them with butter, and sprinkle 
them with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Arrange them 
symmetrically on a platter and place on each one an arti- 
choke bottom holding a little good sauce, such as bearnaise 
or Hollandaise, or even melted butter, and a few green peas. 

Artichoke bottoms come i» cans and can be purchased from 
a grocer. The French ones are the best. They do not need 
any more cooking, but should be heated by placing them 
jn hot water. 




NO. 63. CHOPS 1 LA SOUBI8E. 




NO. 64. MUTTON CHOPS WITH HORS'ERADISH SAUCE. 




NO. 65. BONED MUTTON CHOPS WITH ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS 
HOLDING GREEN PEAS. 




NO. 66. BONED LOIN CHOPS WITH MUSHROOMS AND PEAS. 




NO. 67. CARVED LEG OF MUTTON A LA JAKDIMERE. 




NO. 68. SLICES OF MUTTON A l.A JARDINIERE. 



MEATS 89 

BONED CHOPS WITH MUSHROOMS 

These chops should be cut an inch and a quarter thick from 
the loin, the bone then carefully removed, some of the fat 
taken out, and the thin end piece drawn around and fastened 
with a wooden skewer, giving a perfectly round chop. Have 
them uniform in size. Cook them on a hot pan. Turn them 
frequently after the surfaces are seared so they will cook 
evenly and slowly. If preferred, they can be broiled over 
hot coals, but are then more likely to lose their shape and 
the skewers will be burned. 

Arrange the chops flat on the dish in a circle with the 
skewers pointing out. Cover the top of each chop with a 
sauce made of the chopped mushroom stems, and place in the 
center of each chop a large mushroom cap. Place a paper 
frill on each skewer. Fill the center of the ring of chops 
with green peas or any small vegetable, or with mashed or 
fried potatoes. 

TO PREPARE THE MUSHROOMS 

Select large mushrooms, those not fully opened preferred, 
as they stand higher. Cut the stems off even with the caps. 
Peel the caps. Chop the stems. Put all in a pan with butter 
and saute them until tender. Remove the caps as soon as 
they are tender, and before they have flattened out. Add 
a little stock, or water, to the pan, and a little flour. Stir 
until the sauce is thickened to the consistency of cream, sea- 
son with a little salt and pepper. Use this sauce for the 
tops of the chops. 

LEG OF MUTTON A LA JARDINIERE 

Cut a roasted leg of mutton in thick slices and run the 
knife under the slices to free them, but leave them in place. 
Conceal the bone with a paper frill. Arrange around the 



90 LUNCHEONS 

dish a variety of vegetables. In illustration No. 67 the 
vegetables are boiled potato balls, macedoine, and string 
beans cut in two ways, lengthwise and across diagonally into 
one half inch pieces. 

Arrange slices cut from a roasted leg of mutton on one 
end of a large platter. Cover the rest of the dish with a 
variety of seasoned vegetables. The vegetables used in illus- 
tration No. 68 are cauliflower, string beans, lima beans, and 
green peas. 

COTTAGE PIE 

Peel a good-sized onion, stick into it half a dozen whole 
cloves, and place it in the center of an earthenware baking- 
dish, or a granite-ware basin, or, best of all, the baking- 
pan of a double pudding-dish. Cut any cold meat into small 
and rather thin slices. Roll each piece in flour mixed with 
pepper and salt. Arrange the pieces of meat around the 
onion, filling the dish three quarters full. 

Put the bone of the meat and all of the scraps into a 
saucepan, cover them with cold water, add a bay-leaf and 
soup vegetables, and simmer the whole for an hour or longer. 
Strain off the stock. 

Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with a tea- 
spoonful of onion juice, let it brown, then add a tablespoon- 
ful of the flour used for rolling the meat, let the flour brown, 
then add one and a half cupfuls of the stock and stir until 
it becomes a little thickened. Add more pepper and salt 
if necessary, and a dash of mustard and of nutmeg, also a 
few drops of Worcestershire sauce, if convenient. Let this 
sauce become a little cooled, then pour it over the meat, and 
cover the whole with mashed potato. The potato should be 
seasoned by adding to it a little hot milk, with melted but- 
ter in it, and a little salt, and then be whipped with a fork 
until it is smooth, light, and white. The potato may be 



MEATS 91 

put through a ricer over the meat, or be piled on it roughly 
and scratched with a fork into cone shape, or be put 
through a pastry-bag with star tube as in illustration. In 
the latter case it must have the white of an egg mixed with 
it in order to hold its form when baked. Touch the potato 
lightly over the top with yolk of egg diluted with milk to 
make it brown well. Put the dish in the oven for ten to fif- 
teen minutes, or long enough to brown the potato a little and 
heat the meat. When the sauce begins to bubble through 
the potato at the edges it is done. 

The meat, having been cooked already, will be toughened if 
cooked a second time and needs only to be heated. 

Wrap a folded napkin around the dish before sending it to 
the table in case a kitchen basin has been used. This is a 
presentable dish and will be well liked. 

MEAT AND POTATO PIE 

Butter a pie-plate, spread over it like an under-crust well- 
seasoned mashed potato. Spread it about a quarter of an 
inch thick on the bottom. Make a border two inches wide, 
and thick enough to rise a little above the dish. Score the 
top of the potato border with a fork and touch it lightly with 
egg. Fill the center with rare cold beef or mutton cut into 
dice. Pour over the meat well-seasoned browned sauce and 
sprinkle the top with a few buttered bread crumbs. Do not 
let any of the sauce get on the potato border. Place it in 
the oven for a few minutes to brown. 

MINCED MEAT WITH POTATO RINGS 

Mince any kind of meat. Make it creamy with brown 
sauce for dark meat, or with white sauce for veal or chicken ; 
or moisten the minced meat with stock, add pepper and salt, 
a few drops of onion juice, and, if convenient, a little 



92 LUNCHEONS 

tomato. Chopped mushrooms added to the mince improve 
it very much. Spread the creamed mince fiat on the dish, 
or form a mound as in illustration. Sprinkle the top with 
crumbs browned in butter. 

Mash some boiled potatoes, season them with butter, salt, 
and enough milk to moisten them well, and one or two 
beaten eggs ; one egg is enough for a pint of potato. Beat the 
potato until it is light and white. Press it through a pastry- 
bag with star tube into rings. Paint the rings with yolk of 
egg diluted with a little milk and put them in the oven to 
brown. The potato will not hold its form unless the egg is 
added. Arrange the rings around the minced meat and fill 
the centers with corn and spinach alternately, as in illustra- 
tion, or with any other vegetables. 



MINCED HAM AND EGGS 

Mince boiled ham very fine. Moisten it with white sauce. 
Form it into a mound and cover it with crumbed yolks of 
hard-boiled eggs. Cut the whites of the eggs into strips 
and arrange them around the ham. 



VEAL CHOPS 

Cut thin chops from the rack and trim them like French 
mutton chops. Leave the bone two and a half inches long. 
Strike the meat with a cleaver to flatten it out to two and a 
half inches in diameter. Chop the trimmings very fine, 
season them with pepper and salt and a few drops of onion 
juice. Spread the mince over the chops in an even layer. 
Egg and bread-crumb them and saute them until thoroughly 
cooked. Serve on a dish with a little sauce made from the 
drippings in the saute-pan, or with a itoffiato sauce. 

Serve spinach with this dish. 




NO. 69. COTTAGE PIE. 




NO. 70. MINCED MEAT GARNISHED WITH POTATO RINGS HOLDING V 



EGETABLES. 




NO. 71. MINCED MEAT UK ilSU GAKNISHED WITH MASUED POTATOES. 




NO. 72. MINCED HAM AND EGGS. 




NO. 73. VEAL A L'lTALIENNE. 




NO. 74. SMALL VEAL CUTLETS. 



MEATS 93 

VEAL A L'lTALIENNE 

Divide a veal cutlet into uniform small pieces and tie 
them to make tlie pieces round and keep them in shape 
until cooked, when the strings are cut and removed. 

One cutlet from the top of the leg of veal will cut into 
eight pieces. 

Dredge the small cutlets with salt and pepper. Dip them 
into egg, and then cover them with bread crumbs. Saute 
them iii the fat tried out of thin slices of salt pork. It will 
take from ten to fifteen minutes to cook them. Veal should 
be thoroughly cooked, but not dried. The meat will be 
white when cooked. Put a little lemon juice on each cutlet. 

Boil the required amount of spaghetti in salted water 
until it is tender, then steam it until dry so the sauce will 
adhere to it. Mix it with tomato puree and a few thin strips 
of boiled ham cut into straws one and a half inches long. 
Pile the spaghetti in the center of the dish and arrange the 
cutlets around it. Place the crisp slices of salt pork on the 
dish. 



SMALL VEAL CUTLETS 

Cut and tie the cutlets into rounds as directed in above 
receipt. Dredge them in salt and pepper and roll them in 
flour. 

Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saute-pan, when it is 
hot add half a teaspoonful of grated onion, let it cook for 
a minute, then add the cutlets and cook them until done 
and well browned, turning them several times. 

Remove the cutlets. Sprinkle in the pan a teaspoonful of 
flour, let it cook a minute, then add slowly half a cupful of 
stock, stirring all the time to keep it smooth. Remove it 
from the fire and stir in a small bit of butter and the yolks 



94 LUNCHEONS 

of one or two eg'gs mixed with a tablespoonf iil of hot water ; 
season Avith salt and pepper. If the sauce is too thick, dilute 
it with a little hot water or stock. It should have the consis- 
tency of cream. Strain it on to the serving dish. Place the 
cutlets upon the sauce, arranging them in a line in the center 
of the dish, one on top of another, and place around them 
hard-boiled eggs cut in two lengthwise. 



GRENADINES OF VEAL 

Cut a thin veal cutlet into small pieces and tie the pieces 
into rounds about two inches in diameter. Lard them. Put 
then in a baking-pan with a few trimmings of the larding 
pork, a sliced onion, and enough stock to half cover them. 
Place them in the oven and cook until the stock has fallen to 
a glaze. Baste them frequently so they will be well glazed. 
Arrange them on a dish and pour around them a sauce made 
from the drippings in the pan, as follows : Add a little stock 
or water to the pan and a little browned flour, if necessary, 
to thicken it. Then strain it. A little ham cut into thin 
strips an inch long improves the sauce. 



PORK TENDERLOINS 

Saute tenderloins of pork until cooked and browned. Ar- 
range the tenderloins evenly on a dish and place around 
them sauted slices of apples. 

Cut apples across into slices quarter of an inch thick, 
stamp out the cores with a small biscuit-cutter, but do not 
remove the skin. Saute the rings of apple in the drippings 
of the pork until they are tender, but not until they have 
lost shape. 




NO. 75. GRENADINES OF VEAL. 




NO. 76. PORK TENDERLOINS GARNISHED WITH SLICES OF APPLE SAUTED. 




NO. 77. STUFFED BAKED POTATOES. 




NO. 78. POTATO PURHE. 




KO. 79. INDIVIDUAL MOLDS OF SPINACH GARNISHED 
AVITH CHOPPED WHITE OF EGG. 




NO. 80. SPINACH, NO. 2. 



MEATS 95 

VEGETABLES AND CEREALS USED AS 
VEGETABLES 

STUFFED BAKED POTATOES 

Select potatoes of the same size and shape. After carefully 
washing them, bake them until tender, then cut them in two 
lengthwise and remove the pulp of the potato, leaving the 
skins uninjured. Season the potato with butter, salt, and 
a little milk. Beat it well and replace it in the potato 
skins. Smooth the top with a knife, brush them with yolk 
of egg, and set in the oven to brown. 

POTATO PUREE 

Mash and season the potatoes and add enough milk or hot 
water to make them quite soft. Take up a spoonful of potato 
at a time and place it on a flat dish in a regular order. Place 
a small sprig of parsley on each spoonful. 

RICE A LA MILANESE 

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan with a 
teaspoonf ul of onion chopped fine. Cook for a minute, but do 
not brown. Add half a cupful of clean, unwashed rice, and 
stir until it is a light yellow, then add two cupfuls of stock 
and cook without stirring for twenty minutes. The rice 
should be tender and the stock should be absorbed. Add 
a tablespoonful of grated cheese and a little salt. Turn 
it lightly together, using a fork, so as not to break the rice. 
Cover the top with grated cheese. 

Serve as a vegetable-dish or as a course for luncheon. In 
the latter case brush the inside of a ring-mold with glaze, add 
to the rice a teaspoonful of butter in small bits, and a dash 



9G LUNCHEONS 

of i)nprika. Press it lij^litly into the mold niul set it in the 
oven for a few minutes. 

A l)rt)\vn or a tomato sauce may be served with it if desired. 

BAKED HOMINY 

To two cupfuls of eold boikHl hominy add a beaten egg, 
11 wee (juarters of a cuprul of milk, and a half teaspoonful of 
salt, lieat it until perfectly smooth. Put it into a baldng- 
dish. smooth the to{), pour over it a teaspoonful of melted 
butter, and bake it until it t'oi-ms a golden surface. 

Serve it in the bakinii-dish in place of a vegetable. 

aUENELLES OF CORNMEAL 

Put a cupful of milk and a cupful and a half of water in a 
saucepan and add a teaspoonful of salt. When it boils stir 
in slowly half a cupful of yellow meal and cook for tifteen 
to twenty minutes, and until the mixture is well thickened. 
Then take it off the tire. When it is cold and stilfened take 
it up in spoonfuls and lay the egg-shaped pieces formed 
by the spoon in a baking-dish. Place the pieces in the dish 
symmetrically. Pour over them a little melted butter and set 
them in the oven to brown slightly. Serve as a vegetable. 

BOILED LETTUCE 

Wash thoroughly whole heads of lettuce. Tie the tops so 
the leaves w^Il lie together. Place the heads in a large pan 
so they do not touch and boil them in salted water until 
tender. Remove them carefully and let them drain on a 
sieve, pressing each one to free it of water. Lay them in 
a row on a flat dish and pour over them a sauce made of 
melted butter, peppt-r and salt, and a little vinegar; or use 
a plain white sauce. 



MEATS 97 

TOMATO FARCI 

Select tomatoes of equal size, and if they are small use 
them whole, if large cut them in two. Peel them. Arrange 
them close together in a flat earthen baking-dish which can 
be sent to the table. Sprinkle them with salt and ijepper. 
Spread over the top a mixture of chopped mushrooms, bread 
crumbs, chopped parsley, and sufficient butter to moisten the 
bread, liak*- about thirty minutes, or until the tomatoes 
are softened. Set the hot baking-dish on a second dish when 
serving. 

BROILED TOMATOES 

Without removing the skin, cut fresh tomatoes into slices 
three eighths of an inch thick. Sprinkle the slices with 
pepper and salt and dip them first in melted butter or in 
oil and then in cracker or bread crumbs, then broil them over 
hot coals until they are softened. Do not let them cook so 
much that they fall apart. 

SPINACH 

Boil carefully washed and carefully picked over spinach 
until it is tender, drain it, chop it very fine, and press it 
through a puree sieve. Season it with white sauce made of 
half milk and half stock (page 102) . Use enough of the sauce 
to make it quite creamy. If it is to be molded it cannot be 
quite as soft as when it is to be served in a vegetable-dish. 

No. 1. Fill thoroughly buttered individual timbale molds 
with spinach and press it down quite hard. After a 
few minutes, turn the spinach out of the molds on to 
rounds of browned bread. Cover the tops with 
chopped whites of hard-boiled eggs and place in the 
center a spot of the crumbed yolks. 



98 LUNCHEONS 

Serve alone or use as a garnish on a meat-dish. 

This is a good way to utilize a small amount of left- 
over spinach. Spinach is improved rather than in- 
jured by recooking. 



No. 2. Make a mound of spinach by pressing it into a 
buttered bowl. Ornament the top with a hard-boiled 
egg, the whole yolk standing on slices of the white cut 
lengthwise. 



No. 3. Ornament a thoroughly buttered tin basin or any 
mold with half rings of hard-boiled eggs as shown in 
illustration No. 5. The egg will stick to the butter 
and be held in place. Fill the mold with spinach, 
putting it in carefully with a spoon so as not to 
displace the ornamentation, and press it down firmly. 
After a few minutes turn it out of the mold and gar- 
nish it with croutons. 

Croutons are slices of bread browned (sauted) in 
butter. 



BEAN CROaUETTES 

Boil until tender a pint of dried beans which have been 
soaked overnight. Boil an onion in the water with the 
beans. Press the beans through a puree sieve. Season the 
puree with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two beaten 
eggs, a little pepper and salt, and a tablespoonful of parsley 
chopped very fine. If the mixture is still too dry add a 
little stock. Mold the puree into small croquettes. Cover 
the croquettes with egg and bread crumbs and fry them in 
smoking-hot fat. Serve with tomato sauce. 



MEATS 99 

CHICKEN 

CASSEROLE OF CHICKEN, No. 1 

Cut tender chicken into joints. Remove the skin, put a 
tablespoonful of butter into a casserole. Lay in the pieces 
of chicken loosely with bits of butter between them, add the 
sauted slices of one onion and a bouquet of herbs consisting 
of a small bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, and a little thyme, 
wrap the parsley around the others and tie them together. 
Add also a few raw potato balls and, if convenient, a few 
fresh mushrooms. Sprinkle with salt. Lay two or three 
very thin slices of salt pork over the top. Cover the casserole 
and put it in the oven. At the end of half an hour turn the 
chicken carefully and return it to the oven to finish the 
cooking. 

CASSEROLE OF CHICKEN, No. 2 

Cut a chicken into joints, remove the skin, sprinkle the 
pieces with pepper and salt, and roll them in flour. Saute 
the slices of one onion and a tablespoonful of butter; when 
they are tender remove and put them in the casserole, then 
put in the saute-pan the pieces of chicken with a little more 
butter and saute them to a golden brown on all sides. Place 
the chicken in the casserole. Add half a tablespoonful of 
flour to the saute-pan ; after it has cooked a minute stir in 
slowly one and a half cupfuls of water, or, preferably, stock, 
and stir until it is slightly thickened. Season with a salt- 
spoonful of pepper and a half teaspoonful of salt. Turn the 
sauce over the chicken, add a bay-leaf, a few potato balls, 
and, if convenient, a tablespoonful of sherry and a few mush- 
rooms. Cover the casserole, put it in the oven, and cook 
slowly until the chicken is tender. If the sauce becomes too 



100 LUNCHEONS 

dry add enough water or stock to make it the consistency 
of cream. If it is too thin leave off the lid and continue 
cooking until it is reduced. There should not be a great 
quantity of sauce. 

PANNED CHICKEN 

Split a spring chicken down the back, double the flippers 
under the back, and cross the legs as shown in illustration 
No. 82. 

Put a little butter all over the chicken and dust it with 
pepper, salt, and flour. Place it in a baking-pan with a cup- 
ful of water and bake it for thirty minutes, basting it fre- 
quently. 

SMOTHERED CHICKEN 

Put a chicken prepared as above in a pan, cover it with a 
second pan, and set it in a hot oven for fifteen minutes, or 
until browned, then turn it over, add a cupful of water, 
cover it again with the pan, and cook until tender. 

CHICKEN FRIED IN CREAM 

Fry a few pieces of salt pork until crisp. Remove them 
from the pan and put in the chicken, which has been cut into 
pieces and the skin removed. Saute the chicken in the pork 
fat until it is cooked and browned, then turn over it a cupful 
of cream in which has been mixed half a teaspoonful of 
mustard and the chopped white and crumbed yolk of a hard- 
boiled egg. Stir them together for a minute and serve. 

CHICKEN JOINTS 

Take the drumsticks and second joints and the wings of 
cooked chicken or turkey. Remove the skin and trim them so 




NO. 81. BEAN CROQUETTES. 




NO. 82. CHICKEN FKEPABED TO BROIL. 




NO. 83. CHICKEN JOINTS GARNISHED WITH POTATO. 




NO. 8i. CHICKEN EN SURPRISE. 



MEATS 101 

they are smooth and shapely. Rub them with salt and pep- 
per. Dip them in batter and fry them in smoking-hot fat 
to a light golden color. Arrange them on a platter with the 
points in, and ornament the tops with a line of mashed 
potato pressed through a pastry-bag and star-tube. 

Use a plain pancake batter, omitting the baking-powder; 
or use the batter given for f outage cups (page 30), but a 
little thicker. Have it of a consistency to coat the spoon 
evenly and let it be very smooth. 



CHICKEN EN SURPRISE 

Bone a chicken without removing the leg or wing bones. 
Spread the boned chicken on a board, lay a roll of force- 
meat on it, draw it together, giving it the shape of the 
chicken, and sew the skin together. Put the legs and wings 
into the positions of a trussed fowl, roll it in a piece of cheese- 
cloth, and secure the ends well. (See Boning and Braising, 
pages 181-182, "Century Cook Book.") 

Put it in a pot with enough water to cover it, add soup 
vegetables, herbs and spices, and let it simmer for four hours. 

Let the chicken cool before removing the cloth, then lard 
it, rub it over with a little melted butter, and dredge with 
salt, pepper, and flour. Place it in the oven to brown and to 
heat it if it is to be used hot. Baste with a little butter and 
water so it will not get too brown while it is heating through. 
Place paper frills on the leg bones, and garnish with fried 
potato balls and a few sprigs of parsley, as shown in the 
illustration. 

FORCEMEAT 

Chop very fine the meat of a fowl, or use veal or pork or a 
mixture of them both. Add to the meat a cupful of the 



102 LUNCHEONS 

crumb of bread, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a tea- 
spoonful each of salt, thyme, and onion juice, and a quarter 
teaspoonful of pepper; a little ham or tongue, some dice of 
larding-pork and truffle improve the forcemeat, but are not 
essential when the chicken is to be served hot. Moisten the 
whole with stock and mix it well. 



SAUCES 

WHITE SAUCE 

Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan ; when it bub- 
bles add a tablespoonful of flour and cook them together 
for a few minutes, but do not let them brown. Remove from 
the fire and add a cupful of milk, very slowly so as to keep 
it smooth ; stir all the time. Add a half teaspoonful of salt 
and a saltspoonful of pepper. Return it to the fire and cook 
until it is thickened to a creamy consistency. The sauce is 
richer if half stock and half milk are used. It is also improved 
for some uses by adding the yolks of one or two eggs. If 
yolks are used they are stirred in after the sauce is taken 
from the fire, as it is still hot enough to cook the egg suffi- 
ciently. (See Sauces, "Century Cook Book," pages 275- 
277.) 

BROWN SAUCE 

This is made in the same way and with the same propor- 
tions as the Avhite sauce, but the butter wnth a few drops of 
onion juice in it is browned before the flour is added. The 
flour is also allowed to brown. It is then diluted with stock 
instead of milk. 



MEATS 103 

SUPREME SAUCE 

For Chicken Breasts, Sweetbreads, Croquettes, etc. 

Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when it is 
hot add a tablespoonful of flour and let it cook a few min- 
utes without colorinfT, then add slowly a cupful of chicken or 
veal stock, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprika; 
stir until it thickens, then remove it from the fire, and after 
a few minutes add slowly a mixture of quarter of a cupful 
of cream and the yolks of three eggs. Return it to the fire 
for a minute to cook the eggs. Just before serving add a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice. 



TOMATO PUREE 

Put a canful of tomatoes in a saucepan with half an onion 
sliced, a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, three cloves, one half 
teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cook un- 
covered until reduced one half, then strain it through a 
puree sieve. Return it to the fire and add, a little at a time, 
a tablespoonful of butter. 



HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 

For Fish, Vegetables, and JSIeats 

Put in a saucepan the yolks of four eggs, one half cupful 
of butter, one half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of paprika, and 
one half cupful of cold water or stock. Mix them together. 
Place the saucepan in a pan of hot water and stir the mixture 
over the fire until it has thickened to the consistency of 
cream. When ready to serve remove it from the fire, and 
after it has cooled a little add very slowly the juice of half 
a lemon. 



104 LUNCHEONS 

MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER 

Whip, with a fork, a quarter of a cupful of butter until 
it is very light, add a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very 
fine, one half teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, and lastly 
add slowly a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Smooth it over 
and set it in the ice-box to harden. Dip a teaspoon in hot 
water, wipe it quickly, and then draw it lightly over the 
hardened butter, taking up a thin layer which will curl over 
as the spoon is drawn along. Turn it off the spoon in egg- 
shaped pieces. Heat the spoon again and repeat the opera- 
tion, laying the pieces in a pile as they are made. Place them 
in the ice-box to harden. 

Serve with any broiled meats or fish. 



GLAZE 

Glaze is a clear soup stock boiled down to the consistency 
of thick cream. It is applied with a brush to the surface of 
meats to give them a smooth and shining surface. It is 
used also for adding richness to sauces. A very little glaze 
often improves a sauce and does not thin it as stock would 
do. The prepared extract of beef which comes in small jars 
can be used as a glaze. 



TO MAKE GLAZE 

Put in a soup pot bits of fat cut from meat and let them 
try out enough to moisten the bottom of the pot; or use a 
tablespoonful of butter for this purpose. Add four pounds 
of lean beef cut into pieces and let them brown, turning them 
a few times, then add a half cupful of hot water and let the 
whole cook until the juices are reduced to a glaze in the 



MEATS 105 

bottom of the pot. This is to {^ivc color to the stock. Add 
six quarts of cold water and the knuckle of veal, and let the 
mixture simmer for six hours. If the water is allowed to boil 
the lime will b(! (;xtracted from the bone and the stock will 
be clouded. After three hours' simmering add the soup vege- 
tables, consisting of two stalks of c(;lery, one onion, a few 
sprigs of parsley, a piece of carrot, three cloves, a bay-leaf, 
a saltspoonful each of thyme and marjoram, fifteen pepper- 
corns, and a tablespoonful of salt. After six hours' simmer- 
ing strain the stock through a cloth laid on a colander, and 
let it cool. You have now a soup stock. The next day re- 
move the grease, turn the stock into a saucepan carefully 
so that no sediment goes in, and let it boil, uncovered, until 
reduced to a thin paste. The stock is now glaze. Be care- 
ful toward the end of the cooking that the stock does not 
burn. Turn the glaze into a small jar and put a little melted 
butter over the top to exclude the air. When ready to use 
it heat a little of the glaze to soften it and ap[)ly it with 
a brush, 

SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS 

HARD SAUCE 

Hard sauce is made of butter, sugar, and flavoring. 

Use twice the quantity of sugar that you have of butter. 
Beat them together for a long time;, or until they are v<!ry 
light and white, then add the flavoring and put it in the ice- 
box to harden. The yolk of an egg or the whipped white of 
an egg may be added U) white saue(!. 

To half a cupful of butter and a cupful of sugar add for 
flavoring one tablespoonful of wine, or two teaspoonfuls of 
lemon juice, and one teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, or 
six drops of vanilla. 



106 LUNCHEONS 

LIQUID SAUCES 

No. 1. Use the same proportions of butter and sugar as 
for hard sauce. Add a little wine, or milk, or hot 
water. Stir the whole over the fire until the sugar 
and butter are melted. 

No. 2. Use yolks of eggs with wine and sugar. 
4 yolks, 

4 tablespoonfuls of wine, 
4 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
Cook in a double boiler until a little thickened. 

No. 3. 1 cupful of sherry, 

f cupful of sugar, 
1 egg. 
Beat together and cook in a double boiler until a lit- 
tle thickened. 



Chaptee yill 
SEVENTH COURSE 

PUNCHES-FRUIT- CHEESE DISHES 



PIINCIIKS FRUIT CIIKKSK DISIIKS 



l''r(i/,t<ii riiiiclicH (iiiocclii :\ 1 'llnlicimo 

Hnuidy roiicIit^H (Iriocclii i\ In Konuiino 

Individiiiil PiiioiippU^ Si'o |)iij,M) .'IS (liiocclii i\ lii h'rmirinso 

Clu'CHd (VoiiimttoH l';iitr(''(>H ^fivini in I'Ml'lli Cdiirso 



FROZEN PUNCHES 

Any of the water-iees can be made into punches by adding 
to them when half frozen the whipped whites of two eggs 
which have had a tablespoonful of hot sugar syrup stirred 
into them to cook the eggs. The eggs must be cold when 
added to the ice, and the freezing continued until the ice is 
sufficiently stiff. At the moment of serving pour over each 
glassful a teasponful or a tablespoonful of liquor. 

The liquor may be rum or kirsch, or a liqueur. 

BRANDY PEACHES 

Serve brandied peaches in individual glasses before the 
game course. Keep the jar of peaches on ice for several 
hours before serving them, so they will get very cold. Serve 
one peach in a glass. 

CHEESE CROaUETTES 

Grate half a pound of American cheese. Mix in it a scant 
tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of milk, an egg 
beaten enough to break it, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a 
dash of paprika. Mix to a smooth paste and mold into small 
croquettes, using a tablespoonful of the paste for each cro- 
quette. The above proportions will make eight croquettes. 

Add a little milk to the yolk of an egg and roll the cro- 
quettes in this and then in cracker dust. Then fry them for 
a minute in smoking-hot fat. They should have a delicate 
brown color and be soft inside. Serve them as soon as they 
are fried or the cheese will harden. 

This is a delicious cheese dish and very easily made. 

109 



110 LUNCHEONS 

CHEESE PATTIES 

Cut slices of bread one inch thick. Stamp the slices into 
rounds with a biscuit-cutter. With a smaller stamp cut a 
round half through the center of each one of the large 
rounds and take out the bread, leaving a box of bread. 
Spread these with butter and put them in the oven to brown. 
Fill the centers with the same cheese mixture as given for 
cheese croquettes and place them in the oven just long 
enough to soften the cheese. Serve at once. 

GNOCCHI A L'lTALIENNE 

Put into a saucepan one cupful of milk, one cupful of 
water, one tablespoonful of butter, one half teaspoonful of 
salt, and a dash of paprika. When this boils add a cupful of 
hominy and stir until it is thickened a little, then set the 
saucepan into a second one containing hot water and con- 
tinue cooking until the hominy is soft. Add a little more 
hot water if the mixture gets dry before the hominy is 
cooked. Take it off the fire, add a tablespoonful of grated 
cheese, and spread the mixture in a smooth layer one half 
inch thick on a buttered tin. Set it aside to cool. When the 
layer of hominy has hardened cut it into rounds with a small 
biscuit-cutter. Place the rounds, overlapping, in a baking- 
dish which can be sent to the table. Moisten the tops with 
melted butter, sprinkle them with grated cheese, and set 
them in the oven to brown. 

GNOCGHI A LA KOMAIXE 

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan; when it 
is melted add four tablespoonfuls of flour, one half teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and a cupful of milk gradually. When it is well 
thickened add the beaten yolk of one egg and two table- 




KU. 85. CUEESli CliUQLETTES. 




NO. 80. CHEESE FAlXlEte. 



rr 




NO. 87. GSOCCHI A L'lTALIENNE. 




NO. 88. GNOCCHI A LA FKAN^AISE. 



PUNCHES — FEUIT — CHEESE — DISHES 111 

spoonfuls of grated cheese. Pour the mixture into a baking- 
dish, making a layer half or three quarters of an inch thick. 
Let it get cold. Sprinkle the top with grated cheese and put 
it in the oven to brown. Serve it hot. 



GNOCCHI A lA FRANgAISE 

Add to a quart of boiling milk four tablespoonfuls of fa- 
rina and half a teaspoonful of salt. Cook it about thirty 
minutes, or until soft. Turn it on to a dish, making a layer 
about half an inch thick. When it is cold and hardened cut it 
into sharp, triangular pieces. Arrange the pieces on a flat, 
round dish in a double circle as in illustration. Add to two 
tablespoonfuls of the hot boiled farina, one tablespoonful of 
butter, two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, and a dash of 
paprika or red pepper. Pile this mixture in the center of 
the dish, filling the vacant space in the middle of the pieces 
of farina, and sprinkle it with grated cheese, not letting any 
cheese get on the farina. Place the dish in the oven to brown 
and serve at once. 

This dish is made to resemble a sunflower. 



Chapter IX 

EIGHTH COURSE 

GAME -SALADS -COLD SERVICE-CHEESE 



Quail, Broiled 
Quail, Eoasted 



GAME 
Squabs 



SALADS 



Lettuce, Plain 

Lettuce Hearts 

Bouquet Salad, Lettuce and Nas- 
turtium or Watercress 

Bouquet Salad, Lettuce and Hard- 
boiled Egg 

Bouquet Salads, Illustrations Nos. 
94, 95, 96, 97 

Daisy Salad 

Salad of Asparagus Tips 

Salad of Artichoke Bottoms 

Salad of Vegetables 



Aspic of Vegetables 
Cucumber and Tomato Salad 
Tomato and Green Pepper Salad 
Turnip Cups with Celery 
Celery and Apple Salad 
Individual Apple Salad 
Cabbage Salad 
Mashed Potato Salad 
Shad Eoe Salad 
Chicken Salad 
Chestnut Salad 
Fruit Salad 



COLD SERVICE 



Chicken Aspic 

Aspic of Pate de Foie Gras 

Chicken Mousse 

Liver Loaf or Cold Timbale 

Cold Cut Meats 

Glazed Tongue 



Boiled Ham 
Boned Ham 
Cold Fish, Garnished 
Jellied Cutlets 
Fish in the Garden 
Cold Halibut 



For Buffet 
Lunclaeons or 
Fourth Course 
in Summer 
Sei-vice. 



CHEESE 

Cream Cheese with Bar-le-Duc Cur- Gorgonzola 

rants Eoquefort 

Camembert Etc. 



GAME 



aUAILS BROILEB 



Split the quails down the back, and broil them for four 
minutes on each side. Spread them with butter, pepper, and 
salt. Serve them on toast. 



QUAILS ROASTED 

Lay thin slices of salt pork over well-trussed birds. Bake 
them in a hot oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. Have in 
the baking-pan a little water, pepper, and salt, and baste 
the quails frequently. 

Serve on slices of toast moistened with drippings from 
the pan. 

SaUABS 

Cook the same as directed for quails. 



SALADS 

FRENCH DRESSING 

3 tablespoonfuls of oil, 
1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 
^ teaspoonful of salt, 
^ teaspoonful of pepper. 
Mix the salt and pepper with the oil, then add slowly the 
vinegar, stirring all the time. It will become a little white 
and thickened. 

115 



116 LUNCHEONS 

MAYONNAISE DRESSING 

To the yolk of an egg add oil very slowly until the mix- 
ture becomes very thick, then add alternately vinegar and 
oil. Lastly add salt and pepper. 

The proportions are one cupful of oil to one yolk, one half 
teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and one and a half 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar or lemon juice. More or less oil 
may be used, but it must be added very slowly at first or the 
mixture will curdle. Have all the ingredients cold before 
beginning to mix the dressing. (See "Century Cook Book," 
page 288.) 

CREAM DRESSING 

Add whipped cream to mayonnaise or plain cream to 
French dressing at the moment of mixing them with the 
salad. The proportions need not be exact: a little more or 
less cream can be used as convenient. 

Note.— An onion rubbed on the dish in which lettuce is 
to be served improves the salad. 

PREPARING SALADS 

It is essential that leaf salads and celery be dry. Oil and 
water do not mix, and if the salad is wet the dressing will 
run off it and also lose its flavor. They should also be crisp 
and clean. Divest them of imperfect portions and wash to 
free them of dust and grit. Examine lettuce for a small 
green insect and celery for a small white worm which infest 
them, then place them in cold water to refresh and crisp 
them. 

Dry them carefully, shaking lettuce or watercress in a wire 
basket, or carefully dry each piece in a clean napkin. Celery 
may be drained or wiped. The salad may be dried some- 
time before using it, and if kept near the ice will retain its 




NO. 89, PLAIN LETTUCE SALAD. 




M). '.11). iii.\]:i 111- cAJtiiAtw, 1,1,11 i;<i. 




NO. 91. liOUt^LKT hALAU — 1,1,11 Let. ANU \VA 1 1'.KCKfchh OU NAblUJaiUMh. 




NO. 92. BOUQUET SALAD. SHRI.DDKI* LlCTTrCK AND HARD-BOILED EilfiS. 




NO. 93. BOUQUET SAL \D. LETTUCE. TOMATOES. EGGS. 




NO. 94. BOUQUET SALAD. ARRANGED IN FIVE LINES OF COLOR. RADISHES, CUT TO 

RESEMBLE ROSES, IN CENTER ON A LAYER OF CELERY CUT INTO SMALL DICE. 

AROUND THE CELERY A RING OF WATERCRESS. BOILED BEETS CUT INTO 

STRIPS AROUND THE WATERCRESS. LETTUCE CUT INTO RIBBONS AROUND 

THE BEETS. THE WHOLE MOISTENED WITH FRENCH DRESSING. 



GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE— CHEESE 117 

crispness, but the dressing must not be put on until the mo- 
ment of serving, as it wilts the leaves. The same rule applies 
to vegetables used as salads : they should be dry and cold. 

There need be no waste in lettuce. The imperfect and 
hard leaves may be boiled and used as directed on page 55 
for green eggs. The rejected outside leaves of one head will 
be enough for one or two eggs, or they may be used with 
other odds and ends of vegetables to give a macedoine gar- 
nishing to a meat dish, 

SALADS 

Of the many articles used for salad, lettuce is preeminently 
first in favor. It is the king of salads ; and, whatever else is 
used, lettuce usually forms part of the dish to make it com- 
plete. A plain lettuce is always acceptable and can be served 
in several forms. Combined with one or more articles equally 
common, a number of bouquet salads can easily be made, giv- 
ing dishes attractive both in taste and color. The bouquet 
salads should be placed on flat dishes in order to show the 
arrangement, color, and variety of articles used, 

A variety in salads is desirable ; and, as they can be eaten 
every day, a little change in the combinations will give 
variety. 

The use of nasturtium blossoms is recommended. They are 
not only beautiful to look at and decorative, but have a 
piquant flavor. Combinations of green such as are obtained 
by lettuce and watercress are pleasing. 

In the illustrations a number of combinations are given 
which will suggest others. 

No. 1. Plain lettuce salad. The lettuce here is arranged to 
resemble a cabbage. For this a head of cabbage let- 
tuce is used. The leaves are taken apart, carefully 



118 LUNCHEONS 

washed and dried, and the stalks flattened by cutting 
a little slice off the bottom to make them stand up- 
right. They are then put together again in the natu- 
ral form, but more spread open, and placed on a 
round platter. Just before serving a French dressing 
is poured over them with a spoon, to have each leaf 
moistened, care being taken not to disarrange the 
leaves. 

No. 2. Lettuce hearts. Divest a head of Boston cabbage let- 
tuce of the outer leaves down to the hard head. With 
a sharp knife cut the head into quarters and arrange 
them on a dish with the stalk ends toward the center. 
Sprinkle over them, or not, a little celery cut into 
small dice. If celery is used, place a little in the cen- 
ter of the dish and between the quarters. At the mo- 
ment of serving pour French dressing, using a spoon, 
into the lettuce hearts, moistening them well. 

The outside leaves taken from the head can be 
broken into small pieces or cut into ribbons and used 
as shown in other illustrations. 

No. 3. Bouquet salad. Break crisp lettuce leaves into pieces, 
arrange them on a flat dish, and place in the center 
a bunch of watercress or of nasturtium blossoms. 
Just before serving moisten the lettuce with French 
dressing, and the watercress also if it is used. 

No. 4. Bouquet salad. Place a number of crisp lettuce leaves 
together, and with a sharp knife cut them across into 
strips about a quarter of an inch wide. Pile the 
ribbons in the center of the dish and place slices of 
hard-boiled eggs around them. Moisten with French 
dressing at the moment of serving. 




95. BOUQUET SALAD. A MOUND OF CELEKY, CUT INTO DICE, IN THE CENTER. 
KADISHES, CUT TO RESEMBLE ROSES, PLACED AROUND THE CELERY 
AND ONE ON TOP. WATERCRESS AROUND THE WHOLE. 
ALL MOISTENED WITH FRENCH DRESSING. 




NO. 96. BOUQUET SALAD. PILE OF CUT BEETS IN THE CENTER, SURROUNDED 

BY ALTERNATE PILES OF CELERY AND WATERCRESS. A RADISH 

ON EACH PILE OF CELERY. ALL MOISTENED 

WITH FRENCH DRESSING. 




y?. BOUQUET SALAD. HARD-BOILED EGGS ON A BED OF MAYONNAISE. 
CIRCLE OF CUT BEETS AROUND THE MAYONNAISE. LETTUCE 
CUT INTO RIBBONS AROUND THE BEETS. 




NO. 98. SALAD OF ASPARAGUS TIPS. A PILE OF BOILED A8PAKAGUS TIPS SUR- 
ROUNDED BY A WREATH OF WHITE LETTUCE LEAVES AND RADISHES 
CUT TO RESEMBLE ROSES, PLACED ALTERNATELY. ALL 
MOISTENED WITH FRENCH DRESSING. 




99. SALAD OF ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, LETTUCE, AND PEAS, 
WITH MAYONNAISE. 



GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE — CHEESE 119 

No, 5. Bouquet salad. Use a good head of cabbage lettuce. 
Arrange the white leaves, in a bunch resembling the 
natural head, in the center of a flat dish. Garnish 
with slices of tomato and hard-boiled eggs. Just be- 
■ fore serving cover the whole with plain French 
dressing. Use a spoon and pour the dressing on 
carefully so that all the parts will be moistened 
without being disarranged. 

Mayonnaise may be used on the eggs and tomato 
if preferred, in which case the dressing should be 
put on the eggs in the cups under the yolks. 

Salads Nos. 6-7-8-9. Bouquet salads arranged as ex- 
plained in legends under the illustrations. 

No. 10. Daisy salad. Select tender green leaves of lettuce. 
Cut the stalks so that the leaves will lie straight and 
keep in place. Put a spoonful of mayonnaise in 
each leaf, then arrange on each one in rosette form 
the white of a hard-boiled egg cut lengthwise into 
strips, and place a whole yolk in the center. 

No. 11. Salad of asparagus tips. See illustration No. 98. 

No. 12. Salad of artichoke bottoms. Take artichoke bottoms 
as they come from the can. Rinse them off with cold 
water. Spread each one with mayonnaise and pile 
on it as many vegetables as it will hold. Use green 
peas, string beans, flowerets of cauliflower, or any 
mixture of vegetables that may be convenient. Place 
a little mayonnaise on top of the vegetables, and 
place the artichoke cups on leaves of lettuce ar- 
ranged around a bed of mayonnaise. Or a glass 
or cup filled with mayonnaise can be placed in the 



120 LUNCHEONS 

center of the dish aritl the individual portions ar- 
ranged around it. 

No. 13. Vegetable salad. Mix together equal portions of cold 
boiled string beans, cut in half-inch lengths, and 
lima beans. Pile them on a flat dish with a sur- 
rounding border of lettuce leaves. Pour over them 
slowly plenty of French dressing. 

This is a good hot-weather salad to serve with 
cold meats on hot days when hot dishes are not ac- 
ceptable. 

No. 14. Macedoine of vegetables. Boil small portions of as 
many difl'ereiit kinds of vegetables as convenient, 
and keep them in separate dishes. When they are 
cold, and shortly before serving, moisten them with 
French dressing. Just before serving mix them to- 
gether, adding some mayonnaise. 

Peas, string beans, linui beans, flageolets, carrots, 
cut into dice, and beets cut into dice, make a good 
combination. 

No. 15. Aspic of vegetables en bellevue. Fill individual tim- 
bale molds with any or with diil'erent kinds of vege- 
tables, then turn in enough aspic (see page 125) to 
cover them, and place them in the ice-box to set. 

Use these forms on cold fish or meat dishes with 
mayonnaise under them. They require a dressing, 
but if it were mixed with the vegetables it would 
cloud the jelly. 

No. 16. Cucumber and tomato salad. Peel the tomatoes, cut 
them in two, and cover each piece Avith mayonnaise. 
Place them on one side of a vegetable-dish, and on 




NO. 100. Tl IfxMl' (.(JI'S ll<)I.IH.N(J ClJ.I.ltV MIXI,I> M ITII .VIA VONNAlhli. 




NO. 101. CKLKKV ANO AI'I'LIC WITH CKKAM .MAYONNAISE. 




t^ 



J 



NO. 102. INI>IVII>UAI. Al'I'I.i: SAI.AI*. CKI.KKV AND AI'I'LK MIXED WITH 
< KEAM MAYONNAIhK, SKKVED IN AIM'I.ES. GAKNIHHED 
WITH A WHITE LETTtCE LEAK. 



GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE — CHEESE 121 

the other side place sliced cucumbers moistened with 
French dressing. Separate the two with crisp leaves 
of lettuce. 

No. 17. Tomato and green pepper salad. Cut peeled toma- 
toes into slices three eighths of an inch thick. Cover 
them with a thick layer of chopped green peppers. 
Place them in the center of the dish with a border 
of crisp lettuce leaves. Moisten the whole with 
French dressing. 

No. 18. Turnip cups with celery. Select turnips of uniform 
size and not too large. Cut off the tops to give a 
flat surface for the bottom of the cups. Cut a slice 
about two inches thick from each turnip. With a 
fluted knife pare the outside into rounding shape, 
then with a potato-scoop take out the centers and 
form a cup. 

Leave the cups in water until ready to use; they 
will keep twenty-four hours or more in this way. 
Chop some parsley very fine and spread it on a 
board. Moisten the edges of the cups and press them 
on the parsley. This will give a green edge around 
the tops. Fill the cups with celery mayonnaise, or 
with any vegetable salad. 

No. 19. Celery and apple salad. Cut a bunch of crisp white 
celery into small bits, add a chopped green pepper 
and a teaspoonful of chopped pimento. Mix it with 
mayonnaise. Cut into dice one quarter as much 
apple as you have of celery. Just before serving 
mix it with the celery, and the whole with whipped 
cream. 

Pile the salad in a mound on a flat dish and gar- 



122 LUNCHEONS 

nish it with lettuce or other leaves and radishes. 
For one bunch of celery there will be needed two 
apples and a half pint of cream. 

The celery is quickly prepared by cutting the 
stalks into strips one quarter of an inch thick, then 
laying them together in a pile and cutting them 
all together into lengths of one quarter of an inch 
or less. Tart apples of good flavor should be used. 
Eemove the seeds and ribs of the green pepper and 
cut it into fine bits. Pimentos are Spanish red pep- 
pers and are very mild. They come in cans and 
can be bought at the grocer's. 

No. 20. Individual apple salad. Select apples that are best 
both in color and flavor. Take out the core care- 
fully, using a pointed knife, and make the hollow 
on the stem end. An apple-corer can be used, in 
which case the end piece should be put back again 
to plug the bottom. The wall of the apple should 
be half an inch thick. Fill the hollowed out apple 
with creamed celery and apple mixture, as given on 
page 121, omitting the green pepper and pimento. 
Serve on individual plates with one white lettuce 
leaf at the side of each apple. 

No. 21. Cabbage salad. Add to a cupful of cream the beaten 
yolks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of mustard, one 
half teaspoonful each of salt, pepper, and sugar, and 
half a tablespoonful of celery seeds. Put all this in 
a double boiler and stir until it thickens. Let it cool. 
When ready to serve add to the dressing a table- 
spoonful of vinegar and mix it with cabbage 
chopped fine. Serve in cabbage leaves as shown 




NO. 103. CABBAGE SALAD. SERVED IN CABBAGE LEAVES. 




NO. 104. MASHED POTATO SALAD. 




NO. 105. SHAD KOE SALAU. 




NO. 106. CHICKEN SALAD. 



GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE— CHEESE 123 

in illustration. Cold slaw may be served in the 
same way. 

No. 22. Mashed potato salad. To a quart or a little more of 
mashed potatoes add three tablespoonfuls of oil, a 
teaspoonful each of onion juice and salt, a dash of 
nutmeg, one half teaspoonful of pepper, a table- 
spoonful of pickled beets chopped fine, a tablespoon- 
ful of cucumber pickle chopped fine, and a table- 
spoonful of vinegar taken from the pickled-beet jar. 
Beat all together until the potato is light. The beet 
vinegar will color it pink. If a deeper color is wanted 
add a little more of the red vinegar. The potato 
should be a moist puree. If the salad is too dry 
after the ingredients are in add a little soup stock 
or water. Shape into a mound without pressing 
it, and garnish it with slices of beets, pickles, and 
lettuce. 

No. 23. Shad roe salad. Wash the roe carefully and place 
it in salted water. The water must not boil or it will 
break the skin. Simmer it for twenty minutes. Af- 
ter cooling cut it with a sharp knife into slices quar- 
ter of an inch thick. Place the slices, overlapping, 
on a dish. Garnish with lettuce leaves. Pour over 
the roe a plentiful amount of French dressing. 

No. 24. Chicken salad. Cut cold chicken into half-inch dice, 
using both white and dark meat. Moisten it with 
French dressing. Cut tender celery into small dice 
and mix it with the chicken, using two thirds as 
much celery as there is of chicken. Mix the whole 
with mayonnaise. Form it into a mound. Cover it 
with mayonnaise. Decorate the mound as follows: 



124 LUNCHEONS 

Begin at the top and form four lines of chopped 
pickled beet, dividing the form into four sections. 
Follow the lines of beet with lines of chopped white 
of hard-boiled eggs. This will leave triangular 
spaces. ]\Iake another line of beets and fill the 
spaces left with the crumbed yolks of hard-boiled 
eggs. Outline the small triangular spaces with ca- 
pers and finish the top with an olive and sprigs of 
parsley. Place lettuce leaves and slices of hard- 
boiled egg around the dish. Veal instead of chicken 
may be used in the same way. Lobster salad should 
be mixed with lettuce instead of celery. 
No. 25. Chestnut salad. Mix together two cupfuls each of 
tart apples cut into half-inch dice, celery cut into 
small pieces, and boiled chestnuts cut into half-inch 
pieces. 

Put in a double boiler : 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 

9 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 

■J teaspoonful of sugar, 

1^ teaspoonfuls of mustard, 

1 teaspoonful of salt, 

^ teaspoonful of pepper, 
yolks of four eggs. 
Beat all this well together and stir until thick- 
ened. After it has cooled and just before serving 
add the dressing and a cupful of whipped cream to 
the salad mixture. 
No. 26. Fruit salads. Fruits are sometimes mixed with may- 
onnaise and used as a salad. 

The following mixtures may be used: Pineapple, 
oranges, and apples. Grape-fruit, oranges, and 
canned pears. Pineapple and banana. Apple and 
grape-fruit. Garnish with lettuce leaves. 



GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE— CHEESE 125 

COLD SERVICE 

CHICKEN ASPIC 

Make a chicken stock as for chicken consomme, page 46. 
Use a knuckle of veal and as many quarts of water as you 
have pounds of meat. Remove the breast of the fowl when it 
is tender. Clarify the stock, and if it has not made a jelly 
firm enough to stand add a little gelatine,— a tablespoonful 
of granulated gelatine to a quart of stock will perhaps be 
more than enough, for the jelly must not be too hard, and the 
jellied stock may need but very little extra stiffness to make 
it hold its shape when molded. 

Ornament the bottom of a ring-mold with slices of the 
white of hard-boiled egg cut into diamond-shaped pieces. 
Lay the pieces, with thin strips of egg between them, in a 
manner to imitate a wreath of leaves. A long pin will be 
useful in arranging the pieces of egg. Put the mold in a 
bowl of cracked ice, and with a spoon add a very little liquid 
jelly, taking care not to use enough to float the pieces of egg. 
When it has set sufficiently to hold the decoration in place 
add enough more jelly to make a layer a quarter of an inch 
thicK. When the layer has stiffened, put in a layer of 
chicken breast cut into inch lengths, so the jelly will not be 
torn apart when being served, but place the pieces close to- 
gether so they appear like large pieces. Add more jelly, let- 
ling it rise a quarter of an inch above the chicken ; when that 
has stiffened, add another layer of chicken and fill the mold 
with jelly. Let the mold be level and have a smooth layer 
of gelatine on top, so when unmolded it will stand firm and 
even. 

Fill the center of the ring with celery mayonnaise, or a 
macedoine vegetable salad. 



120 LUNCHEONS 

ASPIC OF pat:^ de foie gras 

Make a chicken aspic as directed above. When a mold is 
used which lias projections on top, as in illustration, the jelly 
must he. miu\v. a little firmer than for a plain mold. Pour 
inio the mold a layer of jelly, let it stiffen, and then add a 
Inyer of pate de foie gras and a little jelly to set it. Then 
fill the mold with jelly. Care must be taken in unmolding 
this form, for if held a moment too long in hot water the 
points will fall off or lose shape. 



CHICKEN MOUSSE 

T*ut through a chopper cooked chicken, using the white 
or the dark meat, or both. Drind it a second time, if neces- 
sary, to make it very line. If a meat-chopper is not at hand, 
chop it by hand, pound it to free the meat from the fiber, 
nnd rub it through a puree sieve. 

Heat a cupful of chicken stock, pour it over the beaten 
yolks of three eggs, add a teaspoonful each of salt and celery 
salt, a dash of pepper aiid of papi-ika. ]v(»turn it to the fire 
and stir until it has thickened like a boiled custard; add 
two tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine which has soaked 
for an hour in a (pinrter cupful of cold chiekiMi stock. When 
the gelatine has dissolved, remove it from the fire and add 
one and one half cupfuls of the fine chicken meat. When 
the mixture begins to thicken stir it perfectly smooth and 
fold in a half pint of cream whipped to a still' froth. Turn 
it into a brick mold. The cream must not be added until 
the mixture begins to set, or the ingredients will settle into 
layers. 

Serve with lettuce or celery salad. 




NO. 107. I IIICKI-N AHI'IC, 




NO. lOH. AHi'ic oi' rAii; j>i; con, (;hah. 




NO. KM). hr.Il'KK <:>>U> MKA'I'H. 



GAME — SALADS — COLD SEE VICE — CHEESE 127 

LIVER LOAF OR COLD TIMBALE 

Line a pint brick mold with thin slices of lardinp; pork. 
Pour in liver timbale mixture given on page 78. Fill the 
mold to within a quarter of an inch of the top. Cover it with 
slices of pork. Set it in a pan of water and cook in a slow 
oven for one hour, or until firm to the touch. 

Serve cold in slices with salad. 

COLD SLICED MEATS 

Illustration No. 109 shows an attractive way of serving 
cold meats. On the right are overlapping slices of cold 
tongue; on the left, slices of beef. A slice of tongue cut 
round is placed in the center to cover the spot where they 
meet. Slices of cold chicken are placed at right angles to the 
tongue and beef. Aspic jelly is placed in the four angles. 
The garnishing is sliced pickled beets cut into stars and 
hearts, and small pickles or gherkins sliced down to nearly 
the end, then spread into leaf shapes. The stars are placed 
on the sliced meat, the hearts on the dish in front of the 
jelly, with a slice of pickle on each side, and the leaf-like 
gherkins are in the center. 

The aspic used in this dish was jellied stock made a 
little stiffer with gelatine. 

Cold meats may also be attractively served by placing a 
socle made of hominy in the center of the dish, the top of the 
hominy ornamented with aspic or any garnishes, and the 
sliced meats laid around and against the socle. 

GLAZED TONGUE 

Boil a smoked or a fresh tongue until tender, then skin and 
trim it. While it is flexible skewer it into a good shape. 
Paint it with glaze (page 104) . 

Whip some butter with a fork until it is soft and very 



128 LUNCHEONS 

light, Placo tho whipped butter in a pastry-bag with star 
tube and press it through, outlining a figure on the sides of 
the tongue and down the middle. 

Garnish the dish with parsley and a hard-boiled egg. Cut 
the white of the egg in strips lengthwise, leave the yolk 
whole, and arrange the pieces so they resemble a daisy. 

Keep the garnished tongue in a cold place until ready to 
serve, in order to harden the butter. 

BOILED HAM 

Soak the ham overnight, with the rind side up. Thor- 
oughly wash and scrape off any bad parts. Put it in suffi- 
cient cold water to cover it w(;ll. Add a bunch of soup vege- 
tables and two bay-leaves. Boil it slowly, allowing twenty 
minutes to the pound, counting from the time the water 
begins to boil. It is done when the meat around the bone is 
tender. Place it on a board, peel off the skin, and by trim- 
ming make it smooth and shapely. Take a slice off the bot- 
tom, if necessary, to make it stand firmly. Serve it hot or 
cold. 

In illustration No. Ill the ham after being trimmed is 
covered with cracker dust and sugar and placed in the 
oven to brown. The bone is covered with a pleated paper 
frill, and a lemon cut to imitate a pig (see page 16) is set 
on top. 

In illustration No. 112 black pepper is placed in spots 
on the fat, and then with the finger is rubbed into regular 
circles. A whole clove is stuck in the center of each spot 
of pepper. If the ham is to be served cold the parts not 
covered by fat can be concealed with a layer of butter; 
the butter should be whipped until smooth and soft and 
then spread evenly with a knife. In this way the whole ham 
can be made smooth and the spots of pepper can be extended 
entirely over it. 



aft^< H llf WJ II ■■IWIIIIi yi H M 




NO. no. f;r.\zi;i. roscri:, <; armsuki) with 




NO. 111. HOII.EI) JIAM, NO. 1. 




NO. 112. UOILKl) HAM, NO. 2. 




NO. 113. GLAZED BONED HAM GARNISHED WITH WATERCRESS. 




NO. lU. COLD FISH COVERED WITH JELLIED MAYONNAISE AND GARNISHED 
WITH BEETS AND OLIVES. 




NO. 115. CREAM CHEESE WITH BAR-LE-DUC CURRANTS. 



GAME — SALADS— COLD SERVICE — CHEESE 129 

The bone is covered with a paper frill (page 14) . The dish 
is garnished with slices of pickled beets stamped into rounds. 

BONED HAM 

Boil the ham as directed above. While it is still hot strip 
off the skin, then turn it over and remove the bone. If the 
ham is thoroughly cooked, the bone will come out easily. 
Make a cut down to and along the bone in the center of the 
under side, then work the knife around and close to the bone 
until the latter is loosened enough to be pulled out. 

Lay the boned ham on a cloth, draw it together and sew 
the cloth around it, pressing the ham firmly together, and 
giving it a good shape. Place a board and heavy weights 
on the ham, and let it cool while under this pressure. 

Remove the cloth. Trim it again, if necessary. Cover it 
with a meat glaze (see page 104). Garnish with a wreath 
of watercress. 

COLD FISH 

Garnished cold fish makes an ornamental and useful dish 
for buffet luncheons, and for summer service, when cold 
dishes of any kind are acceptable. Illustration No. 114 
shows a bluefish boiled in upright position, covered with 
jellied mayonnaise and garnished with pickled beets, cran- 
berries, and gherkins. It is placed on a layer of bread to 
raise it on the dish. To prepare the dish, place a carrot 
inside the fish to give it stability, then tie and prop it with 
vegetables on the kettle-strainer, in the position desired. 
Boil it slowly, allowing ten minutes to the pound. Put soup 
vegetables, a bay-leaf, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in 
the water. When cooked, lift the fish out carefully and let 
it get cold before removing it from the strainer. 

Take off the skin and cover it vntla. a mayonnaise made as 



130 LUNCHEONS 

follows : Heat a cupful of clear beef or chicken stock, and 
dissolve in it one and a half tablespoonfuls of granulated 
gelatine which has soaked for an hour in half a cupful of 
cold water. When it has cooled add half a cupful of oil, 
a tablespoonful of vinegar or of lemon juice, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, a dash of pepper, and the beaten yolk of an egg. 
When it begins to set spread it over the fish with a knife. 
It will give a smooth, polished yellow covering. Garnish with 
slices of pickled beets stamped into various shapes. 

Bass, salmon, bluefish, and halibut are good varieties to 
serve cold. They may be masked with the aspic mayonnaise 
given above, or with a plain, thick mayonnaise, or with tar- 
tare sauce, or with maitre d 'hotel butter. The covering 
should be spread with a knife to make it smooth, and the 
fish kept in a cool place until the time of serving. Hard- 
boiled eggs, capers, pickles, lettuce, watercress, and pars- 
ley are suitable garnishes. 

JELLIED CUTLETS 

Cut cold boiled sheepshead or other fish into flat, even 
pieces, each piece a size suitable for one portion. Lay them 
in a pan, leaving spaces between them. Place on each piece 
a thin slice of hard-boiled egg, then pour over them just 
enough aspic jelly to cover them. The aspic should have 
a little lemon juice or vinegar mixed with it to make it tart. 
When the jelly is set, cut the pieces apart with a sharp 
knife and arrange them on a dish with creamed horseradish 
sauce. 

FISH IN THE GARDEN 

Skin a cold boiled trout, bass, or other fish. Cover it with 
mayonnaise, or with maitre d 'hotel butter. Garnish it with 
aspic jelly and surround it with vegetables molded in jelly 
as in illustration No. 6. Use peas, beans, celery, etc. 



GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE — CHEESE 131 

COLD HALIBUT 

Cover a thick piece of boiled halibut with mayonnaise. 
Sprinkle the top with chopped capers. Garnish it with po- 
tato salad, the potatoes being cut into balls. 

CHEESE 

CREAM CHEESE WITH BAR-LE-DUC CURRANTS 

Beat with a fork a square of Philadelphia cream cheese, 
or of domestic Neufchatel, until it is light and smooth. 
Whip three tablespoonfuls of cream to a stiff froth. Mix the 
cheese and whipped cream together lightly and pile the 
mixture on a dish in which it is to be served. Put it in a cool 
place. Just before serving pour over it a glassful of Bar-le- 
Duc red currants. 



Chapter X 

NINTH COURSE 

HOT DESSERTS-COLD DESSERTS-PIES-TAKTS 



HOT DESSERTS 



Farina Croquettes 
Pudding, Huckleberry- 
Pudding, Chocolate Bread 
Pudding, Cocoanut Bread 
Pudding, Fig 
Pudding, Green-Gage 
Pudding, Tapioca, with Prunes 
Bananas, Sauted 

COLD 

Apples Kichelieu 
Apples, Stewed, No. 1 
Apples, Stewed, No. 2 
Apples, Baked 
Figs, Comjjote of 
Apricots, Compote of 
Pears, Compote of 
Bananas and Cream 
Strawberries and Cream 
Peaches and Cream 
Bread and Jam Tartlets 
Pine Cones 

Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 1 
Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 2 
Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 3 
Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 4 
Pudding, Peach 
Pudding, Tapioca 
Pudding, Eice Prune 
Pudding, Jellied Apple 



Bananas, Baked, No. 1 
Bananas, Baked, No. 2 
Quinces, Baked 
Strawberry Souffle 
Fruit and other Souffles 
Burning Peaches 
Burning Cherries 

DESSERTS 

Pudding, Pineapple 

Savarins 

Babas 

Coffee Mousse 

Peach Mousse 

Chestnut Puree 

Chestnut Bavarian 

Charlotte Eusse 

Charlotte Eusse, Strawberry, No. 1 

Charlotte Eusse, Strawberry, No. 2 

Meringue Eing 

Meringue Crown 

Meringue Cream Tart, No. 1 

Meringue Cream Tart, No. 2 

Meringues filled with Whipped 

Cream or lee Cream 
Chocolate Cream 
Chocolate Sponge 
Sliced Bavarian Cream Garnished 

with Cream Cakes 



PIES- TARTS 



Jam Tart of Puff Paste 

Strawberry Tartlets 

Frangipane Tartlets 

Frangipane Cream 

Fruit Tartlets 

Jalousies 

Pie, Cranberry 



Pie, Cocoanut 
Pie, Currant 
Pie, Lemon, No. 1 
Pie, Lemon, No. 2 
Strawberry Cake, No. 
Strawberry Cake, No. 
Currant Shortcake 



HOT DESSERTS 

FARINA CROaUETTES 

Put two cupfuls of milk and half a teaspoonful of salt 
into a double boiler. When the milk is hot add half a cupful 
of farina, and moisten with a little milk to make it smooth. 
Cook about twenty minutes, or until it is well thickened, 
then add the yolk of an egg. When it is cold mold it into 
small croquettes. Roll the croquettes in egg and white 
bread crumbs, or cracker dust, and fry in smoking-hot fat 
to a bright yellow color. 

Serve with maple sugar scraped from the cake. 



HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING 

2 cupfuls of flour, 

1 cupful of granulated sugar, 

2 cupfuls of berries, 

1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, 
^ saltspoonful of salt, 
1 teaspoonful of butter, 
Milk. 



Mix well the sugar, salt, and baking powder with the 
flour, then rub in a teaspoonful of butter, and stir in quickly 
enough milk to make a batter which will drop from the spoon. 
Add the berries well floured, and turn the mixture into a 
greased quart pudding-mold. Steam or boil it for half an 
hour. 

135 



136 LUNCHEONS 

It should be mixed quickly and the water should not be 
allowed to fall below the boiling-point while the pudding 
is cooking. Serve with any pudding sauce. 

CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING 

1 cupful of stale crumb of bread, 

2 cupfuls of milk, 
^ cupful of sugar, 

3 scjuares of unsweetened chocolate, 
^ teaspoon ful of vanilla, 

1 egg. 

Scald the milk and turn it over the bread, broken into 
small pieces. Let it soak until the bread is soft, then beat it 
with a fork to a smooth pulp and add the chocolate, melted, 
the sugar, vanilla, and yolk of the egg, also a dash of salt. 
Lastly fold in the white of the egg whipped to a stiff froth. 

Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. 

COCOANUT BREAD PUDDING 

Pour a cupful of scalded milk over a cupful of broken 
bits of crumb of bread. Let the bread soak until softened, 
then beat it to smoothness. Add a cupful of grated cocoanut, 
half a cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and 
the yolks of two eggs. Mix Avell, and then add the whites 
of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Bake in a moderate 
oven for thirty minutes. Serve hot or cold. 

FIG PUDDING 

Weigh three eggs; take the same weight of butter, sugar, 
figs, and of crumb of bread. Chop the figs, put a little hot 
water on them, and cook them to a pulp. Grate the bread 
to very fine crumbs. Mix together the butter and sugar. 



■ HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 137 

add the yolks of the eggs, then the figs and the crumbs, 
and lastly the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth. 
Turn the mixture into a covered quart mold, and steam for 
two and a half hours ; or put it into individual timbale molds, 
set them into a pan of water, cover them with a greased 
paper, and cook in an oven for thirty minutes, or until firm 
to the touch. At the moment of serving pour over them a 
little rum or brandy and light it with a taper. 

Serve with wine sauce, or with any other pudding sauce. 

GREEN-GAGE PUDDING 

Butter well a quart granite-ware basin. Arrange on the 
bottom a layer of green-gage plums (California canned 
plums), then fill the dish heaping full of the crumb of stale 
bread cut into dice. Beat two eggs enough to break them, and 
mix them with two cupfuls of milk. Pour the egg and milk 
mixture slowly over the bread with a spoon, so the bread will 
soak up the liquid. Set the pudding-dish in a pan of water 
and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Let it stand 
a few minutes, then invert it on a dish and do not lift it 
off the tin for a few minutes longer. Serve with a sauce 
made of a cupful of juice from the can, with a heaping 
tablespoonful of sugar added to it and then boiled until 
clear. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING WITH PRUNES 

Soak three tablespoonfuls of tapioca in cold water for 
two hours. Use two and a half cupfuls of water. Stew 
dried prunes until they begin to swell. Add to the soaked 
tapioca (there should be four heaping tablespoonfuls of it) 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of butter, and 
two cupfuls of milk or water. Spread a layer of prunes over 
the bottom of a quart pudding-dish, then fill the dish with 



138 LUNCHEONS 

the tapioca mixture and bake it twenty-five to thirty-five 
minutes in a slow oven. 

SAUTED BANANAS 

Select bananas that are not quite ripe. Peel and cut them 
in two lengthwise. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saute- 
pan ; when it bubbles add a tablespoonful of sugar and lay 
in the bananas. When the bananas are tender take them 
out carefully and lay them in an even row on a hot dish. 
Add half a cupful of cream to the pan and mix it well 
with the butter and sugar. The sugar should be cooked 
enough to give a caramel flavor. Add two or three table- 
spoonfuls of sherry, or just enough to take away the very 
sweet taste. Pour this sauce over the bananas. 

BAKED BANANAS, No. 1 

Select bananas that are not quite ripe, detach the skins. 
Bake the bananas in the skins for twenty to thirty minutes, 
or until tender but not soft. Turn them out of the skins, 
lay them in an even row on a hot dish, and pour over them 
some melted currant jelly. 

BAKED BANANAS, No. 2 

Mix two tablespoonfuls of butter with three tablespoonfuls 
of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, and place 
it on the fire to melt the butter. Peel bananas and lay 
them uncut in a baking-pan; pour over them the buttered 
mixture and bake them until tender, basting them fre- 
quently. Place them in an even row on a flat dish and 
pour over them the liquor from the pan. 

BAKED aUINCES 

Peel and core the quinces, then cut them in halves and 
bake them in a pan with a very little water until tender. 




NO. 116. GREEN-GAGE PUDDING. 




NO. 117. BAKED QUINCES. 




NO. 118. STEWED APPLES, NO. 1, WITH JAM AND ALMONDS. 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 139 

When they are cooked, spread the tops with butter and a 
plentiful amount of sugar. Serve hot. Pass butter and 
sugar. 

SOUFFLES 

Souffles are one of the most elegant dessert dishes. They 
are esteemed for their delicacy rather than their richness, 
and the difficulty in making them gives them distinction, 
as they are usually presented only from the hand of an ex- 
pert cook. There is no reason, however, that any one should 
not succeed in making a perfect souffle, though it is one of the 
popular delusions that they are very difficult to make. With 
intelligent care about the heat of the oven, a souffle can be 
made with less trouble than is given to many other simple 
desserts. The whites of eggs must be beaten until filled with 
air. They are then placed in a moderate oven, where the 
heated air expands and puffs up the whole mass. The bak- 
ing is continued until the air-cells are enough hardened to 
support the weight, and the dish must be served at once and 
before the imprisoned air cools and the mass collapses. 

STRAWBERRY SOUFFLE 

Beat to a stiff, dry froth the whites of as many eggs as 
needed, allowing one white for each person and one for the 
dish, then fold in lightly enough strawberry jam to sweeten 
it; or use strawberry pulp and sugar. Turn it into a pud- 
ding-dish and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. 
Serve at once. The souffle must go directly from the oven to 
the table. 

FRUIT AND OTHER SOUFFLES 

To the whipped whites of eggs may He added half the 
number of yolks and powdered sugar enough to sweeten, or 
chocolate, or any jam, or softened jelly, or fruit juice, or 



140 LUNCHEONS 

the pulp of any fruit with the juice drained off. Fruit must 
be pressed through a puree sieve to make the pulp fine and 
soft. 

BURNING PEACHES 

Place California canned whole peaches and the juice in a 
deep dish. Just before serving pour over them some brandy 
or rum and light it with a taper. 

BURNING CHERRIES 

Serve California white cherries in the same way as directed 
above for peaches. 



COLD DESSERTS 

APPLES RICHELIEU 

Take out the cores of well-flavored apples and cut them 
crosswise into halves. Simmer them in sugar and water until 
tender. Let them cool. Lay several pieces of sliced blanched 
almonds straight, at regular intervals, upon the flat sides of 
the apples. Sprinkle them with powdered sugar and set 
them in the oven a minute to brown the sugar. Place candied 
cherries cut in halves upon the apples between the almonds. 
Just before serving put spoonfuls of whipped cream at in- 
tervals on a flat dish and place the cold apples upon the 
cream; or press the cream through a pastry-bag in circles 
around the apples. 

STEWED APPLES, No. 1 

Select apples of uniform size and shape. Remove the cores 
and peel them carefully. Put them into hot water with sugar 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 141 

and lemon juice. Cook them slowly until tender, but not so 
long that they lose shape. When they are cold fill the centers 
with sweetened and flavored boiled rice and cover them with 
apricot or any jam. Sprinkle them with blanched almonds 
cut in strips. 

STEWED APPLES, No. 2 

Prepare the apples as for No. 1. Fill the centers with 
well-flavored apple puree, or with apple jelly mixed with 
chopped raisins. Sprinkle them with granulated sugar and 
stick into them blanched almonds cut into strips and slightly 
browned. 

Serve with cream, if convenient. 

Apple puree and apple jelly can be made from the parings 
and cores of the apples. Put these trimmings in a saucepan 
with a little water and cook them to a pulp. Press the pulp 
through a sieve for the puree, or strain it through a cloth 
for the juice. Return the juice to the fire, let it boil a min- 
ute, then add half a pound of hot sugar to a cupful of 
juice. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and boil until a few 
drops put on a cold plate jelly. Turn it into glasses to set. 

BAKED APPLES 

Peel and core good-flavored, tart apples. Put a small piece 
of butter in each one and sprinkle them with sugar so they 
will brown well. Put them in a pan with a little water and 
bake until tender, then remove and put on each one two drops 
of almond extract'. Add a little sugar to the water in the pan 
and cook it down to a thick syrup, then strain it slowly over 
the apples to glaze them ; or stick three cloves into each apple 
before baking them, and omit the almond extract; or fill 
the centers with the sugar, lemon peel, and stick cinnamon 
before baking, or with blanched almonds and raisins after 
baking. 



142 LUNCHEONS 

COMPOTE OF FIGS 

Put a pound of pulled figs in a bowl and cover them with 
water. Let them soak for several hours, or until they are 
softened and expanded, then press each one into natural 
shape and pile them on a dish. Take the water in which 
they were soaked, add enough sugar to sweeten it, and a 
thick slice of lemon. Boil it until it is a good syrup, then 
pour it over the figs. Ijet the figs cool before serving. Or to 
each cupful of fig water add a cupful of sugar and boil it 
to the crack, then pour it slowly over the figs. This will 
give them a coating of sugar. Serve with whipped cream 
flavored with kirsch. 

The figs, being very sweet, are improved by using a flavor- 
ing which is sharp like lemon or kirsch. If lemon is used, 
pour the juice over the figs, as it will curdle the cream if 
mixed with it. 



COMPOTE OF APRICOTS 

Prepare dried apricots the same as directed for compote of 
pears. Place half a blanched almond in the center of each 
piece to imitate a pit. 



COMPOTE OF PEARS 

Soak dried California pears in water overnight, or for 
several hours until they swell to natural shape. Arrange 
them symmetrically on a dish, or around a form of rice, 
as in illustration. To the water in which the pears were 
soaked add enough sugar to make it sweet, and boil it down 
to a syrup, then add a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Pour 
the hot syrup over the fruit. Serve cold. 




NO. 119. COMPOTE OF FIGS. 




NO. 120. COMPOTE OF APRICOTS. 




NO. 121. COMPOTE OF PEARS. 




NO. 1'2'2. lt\N\N\s VMi CUICAM. 




NO. 123. UKKAl) AND JAM TAUTLET8. 



HOT DESSEKTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 143 

BANANAS ANB CREAM 

Cut bananas into slices one quarter of an inch thick. Ar- 
range them in a pile in the center of the dish and place 
around them spoonfuls of whipped cream. The cream may 
be flavored with sherry or vanilla, but use no sugar, as the 
fruit is sweet enough without it. 

STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM 

Mix enough sugar with cream to sweeten it thoroughly, 
and then whip it until it is stiff and dry. A half pint of 
cream is enough for a quart of berries. "When ready to 
serve, mix the berries in the cream and serve them piled on a 
flat dish. 

PEACHES AND CREAM 

Cut peeled peaches into slices and put them in the ice- 
box. Add as much sugar to a half pint of cream as will be 
needed to sweeten the peaches. Whip the cream to a stiff 
froth. At the moment of serving, mix together lightly the 
peaches and cream ; or an hour or more before serving, mix 
the cream and fruit, put it in a covered mold, and pack in 
ice and salt. Use but little salt, for the object is to make 
the peaches very cold, but not to freeze them. 

BREAD AND JAM TARTLETS 

Cut very light bread into slices one quarter of an inch 
thick. Stamp these pieces into rounds with a biscuit-cutter. 
Put them in a saute-pan with a little butter, and brown them 
on both sides. When they are cool, spread them with any 
kind of jam or preserved fruit, and just before serving 
ornament them with thick cream pressed through a pastry- 
bag and star tube. 



144 LUNCHEONS 

FINE CONES 

Cut quarter-inch slices of bread into rounds and moisten 
them with sherry or maraschino. Pile chopped pineapple 
in cone shape on each round of bread. Canned, fresh, or 
stewed pineapple may be used. Dilute the juice strained 
from the fruit with a little water, and sweeten it to taste. 
Add a teaspoonful of arrowroot moistened with cold water 
to a cupful of pineapple liquor. Boil it until thickened, 
then with a spoon pour it slowly over the cones. Serve 
hot or cold. 

CORNSTARCH PUDDINGS 

Dissolve two heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch in a 
little cold water or milk and turn it slowly, stirring all the 
time, into a pint of scalding milk in a double boiler ; add 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar and a dash of salt. Stir until 
it is thickened, then let it cook for half an hour, or until it 
has lost the raw taste of the starch, then add the whipped 
whites of two eggs and a half teaspoonful of vanilla, and 
cook it a few minutes longer to set the eggs. 

No. 1. The cornstarch is molded in cups; when unmolded 
a piece is taken out of the top of each one, and the 
holes are filled with currant jelly, and jelly is placed 
on the dish around the individual puddings. This 
gives a good sauce as well as a nice effect of color. 
Any jelly, jam, or preserved fruits may be used in 
place of the currant jelly. 

No. 2. Lay a line of seeded raisins on the bottom of a ring- 
mold before turning in the cornstarch; or mix with 
the cornstarch some chopped citron, currants, and 
raisins. Fill the center of the ring with whipped 
cream, or with plain boiled custard. 




NO. 124. PINE CONES. 




NO. 125. INDIVIDUAL CORNSTARCH PUDDINGS WITH CURRANT JELLY. 




NO. 126. 



CORNSTARCH PUDDING IN RING MOLK, ORNAMENTED WITH RAISINS. 
GARNISHED WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 




N<». I'M. COUNM'IAICI II lll|)l)IN(J OltNAMINTIII Wl'lll CANDIED 



Id II lll|)l)ns(J oltNAMINTI II \vn 
CIIICKKIIOH 'm> ANIiI'M.ICA. 




NO. I'JH. CIKX'OI.Ari'; COUNhTAItCIl rilliDINd 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 145 

No. 3. Mold the cornstarch in a bowl. Decorate it with 
candied cherries and angelica. Serve with it cream, 
sweetened milk, custard, or preserved fruit. 

No. 4. Add to tlu; cornstarch two sfjuares of melted choco- 
late and a tablespoonful of sugar. Decorate the 
mold with split blanched almonds. Dij) the almonds 
in a little half-set gelatine to make them adhere to 
the mold. Put the mold into hot water for a second 
to soften the gelatine before unmolding the pudding. 
Serve with whipped cream or sweet(;ned milk. 

PEACH PUDDING 

Cover the bottom of a pudding-dish with canned peaches. 
Take half the juice from the can, add to it two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, and boil it to a thick syrup. 

Make a custard, using two cupf uls of milk, the yolks of two 
eggs, and a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch. Cook in 
a double boiler for half an hour, or until it is quite thick 
and the raw taste of the cornstarch is gone, then add a little 
of the peach syrup to sweeten it, and a few drops of almond 
extract. Sprinkle the peaches with blanched almonds cut 
in pieces, pour over them the syrup, then the custard. Cover 
the top with meringue made of the whites of two eggs and 
three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Brown the me- 
ringue. Serve the pudding hot or cold. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING 

1 quart of milk, 

^ cupful of tapioca, 

4-5 eggs, 

I pint of cream, 

4-5 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 

i cupful of sherry. 

10 



146 LUNCHEONS 

Soak the tapioca in cold water for several hours or over- 
night. Boil the soaked tapioca in the milk until it is soft, 
then add the beaten yolks of the eggs, the sugar, cream, and 
wine, and lastly the whipped whites of the eggs. 

Turn the mixture into a pudding-dish. Set the dish in a 
pan of water and bake twenty to twenty-five minutes. Serve 
cold. 

RICE PRUNE PUDDING 

Spread stewed prunes over the bottom of a basin or mold, 
then fill the mold with boiled rice. Press the rice in just 
hard enough to make it hold its shape. Turn it out of the 
mold and serve it hot or cold, with the sweetened juice of the 
prunes as sauce ; or press the rice into a bowl or mold, and 
arrange the prunes around the form after it is unmolded, 
as in illustration No. 129 ; or arrange it as in illustration 
No. 130. 

JELLIED APPLE PUDDING 

Add to one and a half cupfuls of strained stewed apples 
the juice of an orange, the grated rind and juice of half a 
lemon, three tablespoonfuls of sherry, three quarters of a 
cupful of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of granulated gela- 
tine which has been soaked for an hour in half a cupful of 
cold water and then dissolved in half a cupful of hot water. 
Stir the mixture until it begins to thicken, then fold in the 
whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth, or a half- 
pint of whipped cream. Turn it into a mold. 

Serve it with whipped cream. 

PINEAPPLE PUDDING 

Grate a pineapple fine. Mix well together a cupful of 
sugar and four eggs, then mix them with the pineapple 
pulp. Turn the mixture into a mold, set the mold into a pan 
of water and bake it slowly until stiffened like a baked cus- 




NO. 129. RICE PRUNE PUDDING. 




NO. 130. RICE PRUNE PUDDING. 



NO. 131. SAVARINS. 




NO. 132. BABAS. 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 147 

tard. When cold unmold it and decorate it with whipped 
cream. 

SAVARINS 

Take some brioche dough (page 209) and add enough milk 
to make it almost soft enough to drop from the spoon. Add 
sugar, raisins, chopped citron, and a little lemon juice. 
Work all well together. 

Butter some earthen cups, sprinkle them with sliced 
blanched almonds, half fill the cups with the savarin dough, 
and let it rise to double in size. Bake in a hot oven. 

Turn them out of the molds, and while they are warm 
dip them in a syrup made of one cupful of sugar syrup, 
three tablespoonfuls each of kirsch, maraschino, and curacao, 
or flavor with any other liqueurs preferred. When the sa- 
varins are well soaked place them on a sieve to drain. 

SABAS 

Take brioche dough prepared as for savarins, and mix 
with it candied fruits cut into small dice. Butter baba- 
molds, fill them half full of the mixture, let them rise to 
double in size, and bake in a hot oven. 

Soak the babas in sugar syrup flavored with rum and 
drain. Place a candied cherry on each one. 

Baba-molds are like large individual timbale cups. 

COFFEE MOUSSE 

■| ounce gelatine, 

I cupful of cold water, 

"I cupful of hot water, 

1 cupful of coffee, 

^ cupful of sugar, 

1 cupful of cream, whipped. 



148 LUNCHEONS 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water for an hour, then dis- 
solve it in the hot water and add the sugar. When the sugar 
is dissolved add a cupful of cold, strong, clear coffee. Put 
the mixture on ice and whip it until it becomes light and 
frothy and has begun to stiffen, then add the whipped cream 
and turn it into a mold. The gelatine must be thoroughly 
whipped, as for snow pudding, and the liquid drained from 
the whipped cream must not go in. This will make about 
one and one half quarts of mousse. 

PEACH MOUSSE 

Use fresh or canned peaches. Mash and rub them through 
a colander. Add to a cupful of peach pulp half a teaspoon- 
ful of lemon juice, a few drops of almond extract, and 
enough sugar to sweeten it. Dissolve in quarter of a cupful 
of hot peach juice one and three quarter tablespoonfuls of 
granulated gelatine which has been soaked for an hour in 
half a cupful of cold water. Add the gelatine to the peach 
mixture. When it begins to set, mix it until smooth, then 
fold in a half pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth, and 
turn it into a mold. Serve with whipped cream. The cream 
can be used to decorate the dish by pressing it through a 
pastry-bag. 

CHESTNUT PURflE 

Boil for five minutes a pound of French chestnuts, drain 
off the water and remove the shells and skins. Return the 
chestnuts to the fire and boil them until tender. Put the 
boiled chestnuts in a mortar, and pound them to a paste, 
then add a teaspoonful of vanilla and a teaspoonf ul of lemon 
juice. Make a thick sugar syrup, and beat it into the paste, 
using enough to sweeten to taste. Grease a ring-mold with 
oil, and put into it a lining half an inch thick of the 




NO. 133. PEACH MOUSSE GARNISHED WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 




NO. l:i4. rilESTNUT PUREE. 




NO. 135. CHESTNUT BAVARIAN. 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 149 

chestnut paste pressed through a pastry-bag with a tube 
of small opening so it will come out vermicelli-like in form. 
Fill the rest of the mold with plain paste. Turn it on to 
a layer of sponge-cake. Just before serving fill the center 
of the ring with whipped cream flavored with almond. 

CHESTNUT BAVARIAN 

Prepare chestnuts as directed for chestnut puree. To two 
cupfuls of the puree add one ounce of gelatine which has 
been soaked for an hour in half a cupful of cold water and 
then dissolved in half a cupful of hot w^ater. Mix well, and 
when it begins to stiffen add a pint of cream whipped to a 
stiff froth, and turn the mixture into a ring-mold to harden. 
Fill the center with whipped cream, or with chestnuts boiled 
in sugar and water until they look clear. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE 

1 pint of milk, 
1 pint of cream. 

Yolks of four eggs, 
^ cupful of sugar, 
I boxful of gelatine, 
1 teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Mix the sugar with the yolks of the eggs. Scald the milk 
and pour it over them. Place it on the fire and stir until the 
eggs are cooked, but not thickened like a custard, then add 
the gelatine, which has been soaked for an hour in half a 
cupful of cold water. When the gelatine is dissolved remove 
it from the fire, add the vanilla, and let it get cold. When 
the mixture begins to thicken add the cream whipped to a 
stiff' froth, and turn it into a mold lined with lady-fingers 
or with slices of sponge-cake. 



150 LUNCHEONS 

STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE, No. 1 

i box of gelatine, 

^ cupful of cold water, 
1^ cupfuls of powdered sugar, 
1^ teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, 
1 quart of berries, crusbed and pressed 
tbrougb a puree sieve, 

•J pint of cream, whipped. 

Soak the gelatine in the water for an hour, then set it in 
a pan of hot water to dissolve. Add to the crushed berries 
the powdered sugar, lemon juice, and gelatine. Put it aside 
for a while. When it begins to stiffen, beat it until it is light 
and spongy, then mix in the whipped ei-(>ani, being careful 
not to pour in any of the liquid cream that may have drained 
to the bottom of the dish. Turn the mixture into a charlotte- 
mold lincnl with lady-lingers. When it is unmolded garnish 
it with whole strawberries. 

STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE, No. 2 

Line a china or earthen bowl or mold with strawberries 
cut in halves, and with the flat side of the berries placed close 
together against the mold. Arrange one or two rows at a 
time, and theji turn in the mixture to keep them in place. 
Fill the mold with the same mixture used in No. 1 ; or fill the 
mold with plain charlotte-russe filling, or with Bavarian 
cream. 

HOW TO MAKE MERINGUES 

Put a dash of salt into the whites of five or six eggs and 
whip them until very stiff and dry, then add slowly a quar- 
ter of a cupful of sifted powdered sugar for each egg. The 
sugar should be placed, a little at a time, at the end of the 
platter, and gradually whipped in. Continue to whip until 




NO. 136. HTKAVVIJKItltY ( IIAHI-OXIK HUftbh OAK.NInili-D WITH S'lKAV\JiKJ{JtJl.,h. 




NO. ].','. - I I: ', w i;l,l:l; ■, ■ ij \ i: 1/ , i j i. ..i,-l. 



^' ^V, 




NO. 138. MKKl.NGCK lUMi WITH WHlI'rivD CKKAM. 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 151 

the mixture is firm enough to stand without spreading, and 
any little point left by the beater remains erect. Success 
depends on the eggs being sufficiently beaten. 

The mixture can be made into various shapes with a spoon, 
but is better molded by being pressed through a pastry-bag. 
The tops can be smoothed and any irregularities effaced with 
a clean wet knife. The shapes should be arranged on paper 
placed on inverted baking-tins, and set in a moderate oven 
to form a thin crust, and to color lightly the tops, and then 
placed on the hot shelf of the range to dry. If the meringues 
stick to the paper, they can be easily removed by wetting 
the paper slightly. 

MERINGUE RING 

Place meringue mixture (see above) in a pastry-bag with 
star-tube. Draw on heavy paper two rings four to six inches 
in diameter, according to size desired. Any round utensil 
of right size can be used for guide. Press the meringue 
through the tube, following the circles marked on the paper. 
One of the rings— the top one— should be made more orna- 
mental than the other. This is easily done by moving the 
tube while the mixture is passing through it. With a wet 
knife make a narrow, smooth, flat surface on the top of the 
under ring. Lay the papers holding the rings on inverted 
baking-tins, and put them in a moderate oven for a few min- 
utes to color them and form a crust. Watch carefully that 
they do not get too brown. When lightly colored, remove 
them to the hot shelf to dry. Wlien they are sufficiently firm 
take them carefully off the paper, turn them over, break 
in the bottoms, then return them to the shelf to continue the 
drying. Place one ring on top of the other, and just before 
serving fill the center with whipped cream. 

Meringues may be kept for some time, but in that case 
should be freshened by heating before being used. 



152 LUNCHEONS 

If preferred, the upper piece can be made into a cover as in 
illustration No. 139. 



MERINGUE CREAM TART, No. 1 

Make meringues (see page 150) of oblong shape, three 
inches long and two inches wide. After the tops are firm, 
break in the bottoms in order to dry the insides. 

Trim the edges of a round layer of sponge-cake, spread 
it with jam of any kind, arrange the meringues around it, 
and at the moment of serving fill the center of the tart with 
whipped cream. Flavor the cream, if desired. It will take 
a dozen meringues to make the crown. 

Arrange the crown as follows : Put half a cupful of sugar 
and a quarter cupful of hot water into a saucepan and stir 
until the sugar dissolves, then let it cook, without stirring, 
until a little dropped into cold water is brittle ; it is then 
boiled to the crack. Draw the saucepan to the side of the 
range, so the sugar will be kept hot without cooking any more. 

Dip the end of a meringue into the sugar and place it on 
the cake; hold it in place while you dip a second meringue 
and place it under the first one. Proceed in this way until 
all are placed, then put a drop of the boiled sugar on the top 
of each one where it touches the next one. The whole will 
then be held firmly in place. 



MERINGUE CREAM TART, No. 2 

Make meringue mixture into small kisses, leaving the point 
left by the tube erect. 

Spread a layer of cake with jam as in No. 1. Stick a 
candied cherry on the point of each kiss and arrange them as 
shown in illustration. Fill the center with whipped cream. 




NO. 139. MERINGUE CROM N. 




NO. 140. MERraOUE CREAM TART, NO. 1. 




NO. 141. MERINGUE CREAM TART, NO. '1. 




NO. 142. MERINGUES FILLKD WITH WHIPPED CREAM OR WITH ICE CREAM. 




NO. 143. BAVARIAN CREAM GARNISHED WITH CREAM CAKES. 




NO. 144. TART OF PUFF-PASTE WITH STRAWBERRY JAM. 



HOT DESSEETS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 153 

MERINGUES FILLED WITH WHIPPED CREAM OR 
WITH ICE CREAM 

Make oblong-shaped meringues, as for cream tart No. 1. 
Just before serving, fill them with whipped cream, or with 
ice cream^ and press two together. If necessary, use a little 
white of egg on the edges to make them adhere. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM 

Scald two cupfuls of milk. Melt on a dry pan two squares 
of unsweetened chocolate, add the hot milk slowly to the 
chocolate, stirring all the time. Let it come to the boiling- 
point. Beat two whole eggs and two yolks with four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, stir the milk and chocolate into the eggs, 
add half a teaspoonful of vanilla and a dash of salt. Turn 
the mixture into a mold, set it into a pan of hot water, and 
cook in a slow oven until it is firm. In order to have it 
smooth and solid it must bake slowly. Test it by running 
in the point of a knife; if it is not cooked, it will coat the 
knife with milk. 

Unmold when cold and serve with whipped cream. 

CHOCOLATE SPONGE 

Make the same mixture as for chocolate cream. Instead 
of cooking it slowly, put it into a hot oven and cook it until 
the whey appears. By cooking in a hot oven it will be full 
of holes and have a sponge-like appearance. AVhen cold, 
unmold it and let the whey escape. Serve with whipped 
cream. 

BAVARIAN CREAM GARNISHED WITH CREAM-CAKES 

Make a Bavarian cream (see "Century Cook Book," page 
400), and turn it into a flat tin to harden. Have it about 
half an inch thick. When it is set, cut it into pieces two and 



154 LUNCHEONS 

a luiir to tlnvo inches squaiv, aiul nt-range them, overlapping, 
in the center of a dish. Thice around tlieiu small cream- 
cakes of one inch in diameter. 

Cornstarch puddinj?, jelly, or any mixture iinn enouii'h 
to be sliced can be served in tliis way. Left-over jelly can 
be melted and molded ai^ain in a layer, or it may be com- 
biui'd with custard, civam. i-nuubiMl cake, or anything' suit- 
able that may be at hand, and turned into a layer-tin to 
stitTen; then cnt and serve as above. Any small cakes or 
sliced cak(> cut into rounds may be substituted for the cream- 
cakes. 

Chocolate liavarian garnished with small cakes covered 
■with white icing makes a good combination. 



PIES AND TARTS 

PUFF-PASTE 

PulT-paste is made of ecjual weights of bntter and tlonr. 
The flonr is made into a paste, the bntter is worked luitil 
it is flexible, and they are then rolled together and folded 
several times so that many distinct layers of bntter and 
paste are obtained. Dnring the rolling air is imprisoned, 
and in baking the air-cells expand, separate the layers, and 
so intlate the pastry. 

In order to effect this result, it is necessary to keep the 
pastry dry and cold, and the butter cold, so that they will 
not mix in rolling, bnt be pressed into thin sheets. Careful 
handling is necessary. Many failures are the resnlt of press- 
ing the paste in spots with the fingers, which prevents its 
rising evenly, if at all. A marble slab is desirable for rolling 
the paste on, as it helps to keep it cold. 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 155 

Either of the following mixtures may be used : 
No. 1. 1 pound of butter, 

1 pound of flour (pastry flour preferred), 

About 1 cupful of cold water. 
No. 2. 1 pound of butter, 
1 cupful of flour, 
1 cupful of water. 

White of one egg, 

Cut one sixth of the butter into the flour for the paste. 

No salt is needed if salted butter is used. 

Put the flour on the slab, chop into it, using a knife, one 
sixth of the butter, then moisten it with the water into which 
has been stirred the beaten white of one egg. The exact 
amount of water cannot be given, as that depends upon the 
dryness of the flour, but care must be taken to have the 
paste of the right consistency. It should be neither too hard 
to roll easily, nor so soft that it will stick, but have a flex- 
ible, dry consistency. Work it for a few minutes M-ith the 
hands to a perfect smoothness. Roll it to a rectangular 
shape (a little longer than broad), and about a half inch 
in thickness. The paste can be handled with impunity at 
this stage, and care should be taken to roll it to an even thick- 
ness and to have the edges straight and the corners square. 
When just right, fold it over, wrap it in a napkin, put it in a 
pan, and place the pan upon ice. 

Work the butter with a spoon or a pat until it is smooth 
and flexible, and press out as much of the water it contains 
as possible, as this wets the paste and may make it sticky. 
Mold the butter into a smooth, flattened square cake and set 
it on ice. 

When the paste and the butter are perfectly cold lay the 
paste on the slab, place the cake of butter in the center, and 
fold the paste over it, first on the sides, and then the ends. 



156 LUNCHEONS 

The paste should be long enough to fold the end pieces en- 
tirely across the cake of butter, Koll it out into a strip three 
times longer than broad. Eolling is made easier by lightly 
pounding as well as rolling the paste. Keep the edges even, 
and finish by having the corners square and the whole of 
uniform thickness. Fold the strip twice, making three even 
layers, and place it on the ice again, wrapped in a napkin, 
to prevent it from gathering moisture. When it is entirely 
cold, roll it out again and fold it in the same way. Strike 
the edges to keep the folds from separating, and turn the 
paste so as to roll it in the opposite direction from the pre- 
vious time. Endeavor to keep the edges straight and cor- 
ners square, so the layers will be even. After each folding 
and rolling, it is said to have one *'turn," and the pastry 
is not finished until it has had six to eight turns. The rolling 
becomes more difficult as the layers get thinner, and great 
care must be used not to let the butter break through. This 
will happen if it is not kept very cold ; so, unless the rolling 
is done in a very cold room, it is safer to put it on the ice 
after each turn. If the butter shows signs of coming 
through, cover the spot with flour, and set it away at once. 

The paste should also be very cold when cut into shapes, so 
that the edges will not stick together ; and again, it should be 
very cold before being put into the oven. 

The oven should be hot. A simple test of the heat is 
to place a piece of writing-paper in the oven for ten minutes. 
If at the end of that time the paper is a light yellow, the heat 
is right for vol-au-vent and large pieces. If it is a light- 
brown color, it is about the heat used for Haking bread, and is 
right for patty-shells. 

After a little practice the making of pufl:'-paste becomes 
an easy matter. The rolling need not be done all in one day, 
for if the paste is kept dry and cold, and not allowed to form 
a crust, it will keep for several days. So many high-class 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSEETS — PIES — TARTS 157 

dishes can be made of puff-paste, it is desirable to accom- 
plish the art of making it. 

JAM TART 

Tart cases may be prepared the same as vol-au-vent cases, 
page 71, except that the paste should be rolled not more than 
half an inch thick when ready to be cut ; or, instead of cutting 
the border in the paste, as for vol-au-vents, a strip of paste 
one inch wide may be laid around the edge. The strips 
should be cut diagonally on the ends, and these edges mois- 
tened so they will stick together where joined. Lay the 
strip carefully around the slightly moistened border of the 
bottom piece, paint the top with egg, and bake in a hot oven 
for thirty minutes. Remove carefully the top of the center, 
and take out any uncooked paste, return it to the oven to 
dry the inside. 

Before using, heat the tart again to make it crisp, and 
when cool spread the inside with a layer of any kind of jam 
or preserved fruit, put on the center piece, which was taken 
off to get out the uncooked paste, and cover the entire center 
with jam. Serve it on a lace paper. 

TARTLET SHELLS 

Use puff-paste trimmings. Roll the paste thin, shape it 
to the pans, being careful to press the paste as little as pos- 
sible. Trim the edges with a sharp knife. Put a piece of 
paper in the bottom of each one, and fill the tartlet cases with 
dried peas, beans, or rice, and bake in a hot oven ten to 
fifteen minutes. When well browned, remove the filling, 
being particularly careful, if rice is used, that every grain 
is picked off the crusts. Return the shells to the oven for a 
minute to dry the insides. 



158 LUNCHEONS 

These shells can be kept for some time, but should be 
freshened before using by being heated again. Fill them, 
just before serving, with any kind of jam or preserve, or with 
any freshly stewed fruits, or with creamed minced meat. 

STRAWBERRY TARTLETS 

Use tartlet shells made of any good pastry, puff-paste trim- 
mings preferred. Just before serving, freshen the shells 
by heating them, if they have been kept some time, and fill 
with stewed fresh strawberries. Serve the juice separately 
in a sauce-dish. 

To prepare the strawberries, put them in a saucepan and 
cover them with enough sugar to sweeten them. Let them 
stand in a warm place until the juice moistens the sugar. 
Cook them slowly until the berries are softened, but not so 
long that they lose their shape. 

FRANGIPANE TARTLETS 

Line patty-pans with puff-paste rolled one quarter of an 
inch thick. Cut the paste an inch larger than the pans, and 
fit it as carefully as possible, pressing it lightly with the 
broad finger into the flutings. Prick the bottom crust and 
lay on it a slice of bread cut to the size of the bottom of the 
pan. This is to prevent the bottom crust from rising and to 
leave the sides to puff, as the light pastry is an important 
part of these tartlets. Bake in a hot oven about fifteen min- 
utes. When done remove any uncooked paste and fill with 
frangipane cream. Cover the whole top with meringue, 
piling it high in the center, and smooth it with a wet knife. 
Make a border one half an inch wide of chopped almonds 
which have been blanched and browned. Place in the center 
a half cherry and two pieces of angelica to imitate a flower. 




NO. 145. STRAWBERKT TARTLETS. 




NO. 146. FRANGIPANE TARTLETS 




^"":^?a 



NO. 147. JALOUSIES. 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS— PIES— TARTS 159 

FRANGIPANE CREAM 

I cupful of cream, 

1 tablespoonful of flour, 

4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 

1 tablespoonful of sherry, 

1 tablespoonful of brandy, 

1 teaspoonful of orange-flower water, 

1 grated lemon rind, 

1 tablespoonful of chopped citron, 

4 egg yolks. 

Put the cream and flour in a small saucepan and stir until 
smooth, place on the fire a few minutes to cook the flour, stir- 
ring all the time. Remove from the fire, and when it is a 
little cooled add all the other ingredients. Set the saucepan 
in a second saucepan containing hot water and cook, stirring 
all the time, until the mixture has become a thick cream. 

FRUIT TARTLETS 

Prepare tartlet shells as for frangipane tartlets. Half fill 
the shells with frangipane cream, cover each one with half 
a California canned peach or apricot, and decorate around 
the outside of the fruit with meringue pressed through a 
pastry-bag. 

JALOUSIES 

Roll puff-paste trimmings into a sheet one eighth of an 
inch thick. Cut it into strips three inches wide. Lay half 
of the strips on a baking-sheet and spread them with a layer 
of well-seasoned and quite dry apple sauce. Cover them with 
the remaining strips, which have been slashed into triangular 
openings by being folded over and cut on the folded side 
an inch deep in diagonal lines. Egg the tops and bake in a 



160 LUNCHEONS 

hot oven. When done, sprinkle with sugar and return them 
to the oven for a minute to glaze. Cut the strips after they 
are baked into pieces three inches long. 

CRANBERRY PIE 

Add to half a cupful of hot water a cupful of sugar and 
a tablespoonful of cornstarch diluted with a little water. 
Stir until the water boils, then add half a cupful of mo- 
lasses, half a tablespoonful of butter, a saltspoonful of 
salt, and a pint of chopped cranberries. Cook for a few 
minutes, then turn it into the pastry and bake with or with- 
out an upper crust. 

COCOANUT PIE 

Grate a cocoanut. Mix it with an equal weight of sugar 
and the beaten yolks of four eggs. Mix together and scald 
a cupful of milk and the milk of the cocoanut. Add a table- 
spoonful of cornstarch diluted with a little water, and stir 
it until it is a little thickened. Remove it from the fire, add 
the cocoanut mixture, and lastly the whipped whites of four 
eggs. Turn it into a deep pie-paste and bake very slowly 
for half an hour, or until firm to the touch.' Serve cold. 

The cocoanut fiUling should be one and a half or one and 
three quarter inches thick. A kitchen basin may be used 
for the baking-dish, or the crust can be built up around a 
pie-dish to make it deeper, 

CURRANT PIE 

Add to a cupful of mashed currants a cupful of sugar, half 
a teaspoonful of butter, the yolk of an egg, and if there is 
much juice a tablespoonful of flour. Bake with an under- 
crust only, and cover the top with meringue. 




NO. 148. COCOANUT PIE. 




NO. 150. BTKAWBERKY CAKK. 



HOT DESSERTS - COLD DESSERTS — PIES— TARTS 161 

LEMON PIE, No. 1 

3 eg^'s, 

2 cupfuls of rniJk, 

2 tablespoonfuls of flour, scant, 

1 lablcspoonful of butter, 

5 tablespoonfuls of sugar, or to taste, 

Juice and grated rind of one and a half lemons. 

Beat together tbe yolkn of three (?ggs and the whilci of one 
egg, then add, in the following order, the sugar, the flour, the 
butter, and tin; milk. Lastly, add very slowly th(? juice and 
grated rind of lemon. Turn the mixture into a 7)ie-dish 
lined with a bottom crust and bake it slowly until it is set 
like a custard. Do not let it cook too long, or, like custard, 
it will b(;come watery. 

Make a meringue of the whites of two eggs. Beat them to 
a stifiC froth, then add slowly two tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
Spread the meringue roughly over tlie pie when it is taken 
from the oven, and return it to the oven for a minute to 
color the meringue. The top may b<! made more ornamental 
by pressing the meringue through a pastry-bag on to the pie. 



LEMON PIE, No. 2 

Put into a saucepan on the fire one cupful of sugar and one 
cupful of water. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then add 
two cupfuls of grated crumb of bread and the juice and 
grated rind of two lemons. Stir until the mixture is smooth, 
then add the beaten yolks of two eggs and remove it from 
the fire. Turn the mixture into a baked under-crust, and 
bake the pie for ten to fifteen minutes. 

Cover the top with meringue made of the whites of three 
eggs and three tablesjxxjiifuis of sugar. 
11 



162 LUNCHEONS 

STRAWBERRY CAKES 

Make two layers of sponge-cake, trim the edges, cover them 
with well-selected strawberries set close together, sprinkle 
with sugar, and place one layer on the other. Pass cream 
in a pitcher. 

Prepare the cake as in No. 1, but cover the top with whip- 
ped cream pressed through a pastry-bag. 

Use a single layer of cake, cover it with meringue, then 
with strawberries placed close together, and decorate with 
meringue pressed through a pastry-bag with star-tube, mak- 
ing a border, or a border by placing stars between the berries. 

For the meringue use the whites of three eggs and four 
tablespoonfuls of sugar. Flavor it with a few drops of va- 
nilla. Prepare the cake just before serving it. 

CURRANT SHORTCAKE 

This shortcake will be liked as well as, if not better than, 
one made of strawberries. The latter has an established 
reputation, which is based largely upon its attractive appear- 
ance, but, as a rule, it is disappointing to the taste. Short- 
cake can be made quite as inviting with currants as with 
strawberries, and the tartness of the fruit gives it a flavor 
which is especially grateful in hot weather, when currants 
are in season. 

Keceipt for one currant shortcake which is enough to serve 
to six persons : 

Make a biscuit dough as follows : Sift together twice two 
cupfuls of flour, one and a half teaspoonfuls of baking-pow- 
der, and a half teaspoonful of salt (they must be thoroughly 
mixed) . When this is done, rub in one rounded teaspoonful 
of butter or lard or cottolene, then add enough milk to make 
a soft dough. Use a fork to stir in the milk. Mix it lightly 
and quickly together, making the paste a little too soft to 




NO. 151. STRAWBERRY-CAKE WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 




NO. 152. STRAWBERRY-CAKE WITH MERINGUE. 




NO. 153. STRAWBERRY-CAKE WITH MERINGUE. 




Nu, iril. CIIHKAN r-HIIOUrc.VKlO 




NO. ir>."). rUUKANT-.silDHTt'AKi; CUT. 



HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS— PIES — TARTS 163 

roll. Turn it into a well-greased pie-tin, smooth the top with 
a wet knife, and put it at once into a hot oven to bake for 
thirty minutes. When it is taken from the oven trim the 
edges and split the biscuit in two, using two forks so as to 
tear, not cut, it apart. Spread each half with butter while 
it is still hot. 

Stem a box of currants. Reserve a few of the finest ones 
to decorate the top of the shortcake. Put the rest of the 
currants into a bowl and mash them, add enough sugar to 
sweeten to taste, and let them stand an hour or more before 
using them. 

Spread the mashed currants over one half of the buttered 
biscuit, lay the other half on it. Cover the top with me- 
ringue made of the whipped whites of two eggs sweetened 
with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Decorate with 
whole currants as shown in illustration. 

It can be more elaborately decorated by pressing the 
meringue through a pastry-bag and tube into ornamental 
shapes, and placing currants on it as the fancy dictates. 

Serve very fresh. 



Chapter XI 
TENTH COURSE 

ICES 



ICES 



Ice Cream, Plain Water-ice, Orange 

Ice Cream with Hot Chocolate Water-ice, Strawberry 

Sauce Water-ice, Apricot 

Ice Cream with Hot Maple Sauce Water-ice, Pineapple 

Ice Cream, Strawberry Water-ice, Macedoine 

Ice Cream, Melon Cafe Frappe 

Ice Cream, Peach Cake 
Water-ice, Lemon 



PLAIN ICE CREAM 

To serve with or without hot sauces. 
2 eupfuls of milk, 

1 cupful of cream, 
^ cupful of sugar, 

2 whole eggs, 

1 teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Mix the eggs with the sugar, then scald the milk and turn 
it over them. Place the whole on the fire in a double boiler 
and cook for a few minutes to set the eggs, but not so long 
that the mixture thickens like a custard. Remove from the 
fire and add the cream and vanilla. When it is cold, freeze 
and mold it. 



HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE FOR ICE CREAM 

Put four squares of unsweetened chocolate into a sauce- 
pan. Set the saucepan into a second one containing hot 
water, let the chocolate melt on the dry pan, then remove 
it and stir in first a cupful of sugar and then half a cupful 
of hot water. Return it to the fire and stir until the sugar 
is dissolved and the mixture is smooth, then cook without 
stirring until a little dropped into cold water can be taken 
up and rolled into a ball between the fingers. Do not let 
it cook any farther, but keep the pan in hot water until 
ready to serve, then turn it into a hot sauce-dish. It will 
harden and form a crust when turned over the cream. 

167 



168 LUNCHEONS 

It is essential to prepare it exactly as directed. If the 
chocolate is not first melted on a dry pan it will be grainy, 
and if the water is added first it will harden, 

HOT MAPLE SAUCE FOR ICE CREAM 

Mix half a cupful of cream with two cup fills of maple 
syrup and let it cook without stirring until it threads, or a 
little dropped into water can be taken up and rolled into 
a soft ball between the fingers. Do not let it cook any 
farther, but set the pan in hot water and keep it warm until 
the moment of serving. 

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM 

1 pint of milk, 
1 pint of cream, 
1 pound of sugar, 

1 quart of strawberries, or of strawberries 
and raspberries mixed. 

Mix the crushed berries with half of the sugar and let them 
stand for several hours, then squeeze out the juice. 

Scald the milk with the other half of the sugar, let it cool, 
half freeze it, then add the cream and the fruit juice and fin- 
ish the freezing. 

MELON ICE CREAM 

1 pint of milk, 

1 pint of cream, 

1^ pints of lemon juice, 

2^ cupfuls of sugar. 

Scrape out the soft center of a muskmelon, press it through' 
a colander, add half the sugar to it, and let it stand several 
hours, then strain out the juice. 

Scald the milk with the other half of the sugar, let it cool, 
mix in the cream and half freeze it, then add the melon 



ICES 169 

juice and finish the freezing. Serve it in the melon rind or 
mold it. To mold, line a melon-mold with a layer one 
inch thick of the frozen cream, colored green, and fill the 
center with the plain cream. 

PEACH ICE CREAM 

1 pint of milk, 
1 pint of cream, 
1^ pints of peach pulp, 
2^ cupfuls of sugar. 

Add half of the sugar to the peach pulp and let it stand 
for two or three hours, then press it again through a sieve 
or colander. 

Scald the milk with half of the sugar, let it cool, half 
freeze it, and then add the cream and peach pulp and finish 
freezing. 

WATER-ICES 

Express the juice from any fruit, dilute it with a little 
water, or leave it pure, make it very sweet with sugar, or, 
preferably, sugar syrup, and add a very little lemon juice. 
Freeze the mixture. 

Syrup from preserve-jars, diluted to the right degree, 
makes good water-ice. 

Water-ices are difficult to mold, so it is better to serve them 
in glasses or in individual dishes. 

LEMON ICE 

Juice of four large lemons, 
Juice of one orange, 
2^ cupfuls of sugar. 

Boil the sugar and water for ten minutes, then add the 
fruit juice, strain it, and when it is cold freeze it. 



170 LUNCHEONS 

ORANGE ICE 

1^ cupfuls of orange juice, 

Juice of 1 lemon, 
2| cupfuls of sugar, 
1 cupful of water. 

Boil the sugar and water for ten minutes, add the fruit 
juice, strain it, and when it is cold freeze it. 

STRAWBERRY ICE 

1^ cupfuls of strawberry juice, 
2 cupfuls of sugar, 
1 quart of water. 

Crush the berries and let them stand in part of the sugar 
for two to three hours, then strain out the juice. Boil the 
water with the rest of the sugar for ten minutes, add the 
fruit juice, and when it is cold freeze it by turning the crank 
for five minutes, then stopping for five minutes, and so on 
until it is frozen. Serve in individual glasses. 

APRICOT ICE 

Chop, mash, and press through a sieve a canful of Califor- 
nia canned apricots. To the pulp add the juice from the 
can, two cupfuls of water, and enough sugar to make it 
quite sweet. Freeze and serve in glasses. 

PINEAPPLE ICE 

Cut off the top of a pineapple and take out the center, 
being careful to leave the rind uninjured. Grate the pine- 
apple, and to the pulp and juice add a cupful of water, 
the juice of a lemon, and enough sugar to make it very sweet, 
as it loses sweetness in freezing. Freeze it and serve it in the 
shell of the pine. 




NO. 150. ri.M;Ai'i'i>i; i(;k. 




NO. 157. .M.\CI'.l<ol.NJ', ICIv 



ICES 171 

MACEDOINE ICES 

Half fill glasses with mixed fruits cut in pieces, using any 
combination of summer or winter fruits that may be con- 
venient, such as oranges, bananas, grapes, canned peaches, 
canned cherries, and candied cherries; or fresh peaches and 
pears, grapes, and preserved strawberries; or fresh straw- 
berries and cherries and sweet apples. Cover the fruit 
with a water-ice made of any fruit juice. 

Serve as an ice for dessert, or serve in small glasses as a 
sherbet before the game course. In the latter case a mixture 
of oranges, grape-fruit, and grapes with lemon or orange 
ice would be suitable, and a teaspoonful of rum or sherry 
should be poured over the ice just before serving. 

CAFE FRAPPE 

To a quart of strong coffee add a pint of cream or milk 
and a cupful of sugar; freeze it and serve it in glasses, or 
freeze the sweetened coffee and serve it in glasses with 
whipped cream on top. In the latter case the coffee must not 
be quite as strong as when mixed with the cream. 

Note.— For other ices, parfaits, and directions for freez- 
ing, see "Century Cook Book," page 488. 



Chapter XII 

ELEVENTH COURSE 

FRUITS 



FRUITS 

Pineapple, No. 1 Pineapple, Pulled 

Pineapple, No. 2 Currants 

Pineapple, No. 3 Cherries 

Pineapple, No. 4 Pears 




NO. 158. I'INEAPPLE U8ED AS A CENTERPIECE. 




NO. 159. THE SAME I'INEAPPLE AS SHOWN IN NO. 1.58 DIVESTED OF ITS 
COVERING TO SERVE AT DESSERT. 




NO. IGO. SLICED PIXEAPPLK, NO. 2. 




«0. 161. !*LICIiL> I'lMJAPPLE AKOUNU A FORM OF EKE, NO. 3. 




NO. 162. SLICED PINEAPPLE, NO. 4. 



PINEAPPLE 

This is a well-selected pine called the sugar-loaf on account 
of its tapering to a point on top. The top and bottom are 
cut off square, and then the rind on the sides. The inside 
is cut into slices quarter of an inch thick, and left together 
in natural shape. The rind is then fitted around it and, 
if necessary, held in place with wooden toothpicks used as 
skewers. These will not show, and can be easily removed at 
the time of serving. Use the pine as a table ornament or 
centerpiece. 

No. 1. The rind is removed from the pine shown in illus- 
tration No. 158; it is then covered with sugar and 
passed. 

No. 2. The pineapple has been cut into slices quarter of an 
inch thick, and then in halves. The half slices are 
stood on edge and powdered sugar is placed in the 
center of the circle. 

Pineapple is much better in thick slices. The less 
taste of the knife the better. Cut in this way, there 
is no difficulty about the pieces standing in place as 
shown in illustration. 

No. 3. Cut the pineapple into slices quarter of an inch thick, 
and then into quarters. Arrange the quarters, stand- 
ing on edge, diagonally around the mound of boiled 
rice. Place the sprout of the pine in the center of 
175 



176 LUNCHEONS 

the mound of rice. Have the rice sweetened and fla- 
vored. Sherry or maraschino are good flavorings 
to use. 

Cornstarch pudding, blancmange, or any simple 
jelly, can be used instead of the rice. 

No. 4. Cut a pineapple into slices quarter of an inch thick. 
With a small biscuit-cutter stamp out the hard cen- 
ters, leaving the pineapple in rings. Arrange the 
rings, overlapping, in a circle. Sprinkle them with 
granulated sugar, and garnish with a small leaf of 
the pine laid in each hole. 

Pulled pineapple. This is a delicious way of serving the 
pine when it is very ripe. 

Cut off the rind, and with a small, pointed knife take out 
the eyes. Put a fork in the hard core to hold it, and with 
a second fork tear off the soft pulp. Pile the pieces in a glass 
dish and sprinkle them plentifully with sugar. Let it stand 
a few minutes to extract the juice before serving. 

CHERRIES 

No. 1. Tie the cherries together by the stems into bunches 
resembling bunches of grapes. If convenient, have 
bunches of red and white cherries on the same dish. 

No. 2. Turn lace papers into cornucopias and fill them with 
cherries tied into even bunches ; let the stems turn to 
the points of the cornucopias, so the fruit only shows 
in the opening. 

Arrange the cornucopias on center dishes, in cone 
shape, the points in. 

Note.— For other arrangements of fruits, see "Century 
Cook Book," page 529. 




NO. 163. rULLED PINEAPl^LE. 




NO. 164. STRAWBERRIES SERVED WITH THE HULLS ON. 





NO. 165. PEARS ARRANGED FOR CENTERPIECE. 




NO. 166. CENTERPIECE OF RED AND OF WHITE CURRANTS FOR THE 
BREAKFAST- OR THE LUXCHEON-TABLE. 




NO 167. CENTERPIECE OF RED AND OF WHITE CURRANTS ARRANGED 
IN A CIRCLE, THE COLORS ALTERNATING. 



Chaptee XIII 

LOAF CAKES-SMALL CAKES-FANCY CAKES 



12 



LOAF CAKES 



Gingerbread with Chocolate Glaze 
Gingerbread with Whipped Cream 
Gingerbread with Preserved Gin- 
ger 
Orange-cake, No. 1 
Orange-cake, No. 2, or Plain 

Cup-cake 
Chocolate-cake 
Cocoanut-cake 
Cocoanut Cream-cake 
Cake Decorated with Star 



Cake Decorated in Two Shades of 

White Icing 
Iced Cake Decorated with Pink 

Bow-knot 
Cake Decorated with Candied 

Violets 
Cake Decorated with Candied 

Kose-leaves 
Cake-basket Holding Meringue 

Mushrooms 



SMALL CAKES 



Jelly-roll 
Daisy Cakes 
Medallion Fruit-cakes 



Cup-cakes with 
Flower Design 



Decoration of 



FANCY CAKES 



Cherry-cakes 
Domino Cakes 
Marble Cakes 
Hemispheres 
Cream-cakes 
Cream-cakes, Iced 
Cream-cakes with Jam and Whip- 
ped Cream 



Little Cream-cakes with Caramel 

Icing 
Meringue Mushrooms 
Cocoanut Meringues 
Galettes 
Pastry Fingers 



LOAF CAKES 

GINGERBREAD WITH CHOCOLATE GLAZE 

No. 1. I of a cupful of butter, 
1 cupful of sugar, 
3 cupfuls of flour, 
1 cupful of dark molasses, 
1 cupful of black coffee, 
1 teaspoonful of ginger, 
^ teaspoonful of cloves, 
1 teaspoonful of cinnamon, 
1 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, 
3 eggs. 

Mix the spices with the molasses. Dissolve the soda in a 
little boiling water and add it to the coffee. Cream together 
the butter and sugar, add the eggs, one at a time, and beat 
each one well. Add the molasses, then the coffee and flour, 
a little at a time, alternately. Bake in two bread-tins in a 
moderate oven forty to sixty minutes, or until the cake leaves 
the sides of the pans. 

Invert the loaves and cover the tops with a chocolate glaze 
made as follows : 

CHOCOLATE GLAZE 

Put into a double saucepan two ounces or squares of 
chocolate. When it is melted remove it from the fire and 
stir into it half a cupful of sugar, then add a quarter cupful 
of hot water. Return it to the fire, stir it until the sugar 

179 



180 LUNCHEONS 

is dissolved, and continue to cook it without stirring until 
a little dropped in water can be taken up and rolled between 
the fingers into a soft ball. Pour it over the top of the cake. 

No. 2. With whipped cream. Use the same receipt as No. 1, 
substituting a cupful of boiling water for the coffee, 
and using half butter and half lard; or two cupfuls 
of molasses may be used, and the sugar omitted. In 
the latter case two teaspoonfuls of soda instead of 
one should be dissolved in a cupful of boiling water. 
Serve the cake very fresh, and cover the top just be- 
fore serving with whipped cream. 

The cake may be broken into squares, and the 
pieces fitted together and covered entirely with 
W'liipped cream. It can then be passed with a fork 
and spoon, as a dessert. 

No. 3. With preserved ginger, 

1 cupful of black molasses, 
^ cupful of butter, 

2 cupfuls of flour, 

■J cupful of boiling water with a teaspoonful 

of soda dissolved in it, 
•| teaspoonful of ginger, 
2 eggs, 

A dash of salt. 

Warm the molasses and mix it with the butter, add the 
ginger and salt, then the beaten eggs, and lastly the flour 
and water, a little at a time, alternately. Bake in a square 
pan. Break the cake into square pieces. Open each piece 
and spread between the halves some icing, No. 1 or No. 2, 
mixed with chopped preserved ginger; or use a chocolate 
icing. 

Serve very fresh. 




NO. 168. GINGERBREAD. 
1. WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 2. WITH CHOCOLATE GLAZE. 




NO. 169. ORANGE-CAKE IN CRESCENTS. 




NO. 170. COCOANUT-CAKE, 



LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 181 

ORANGE-CAKE, No. 1 

Yolks of five eggs, 

Whites of three eggs, 
2 cupfuls of powdered sugar, 
2 cupfuls of flour sifted three times with 
1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 
^ cupful of water, 

Juice of one orange. 

Grated peel of one half orange. 

First beat the yolks and sugar together thoroughly, then 
add the orange juice and grated peel, then the flour and 
water, a little at a time, alternately, and lastly the whites 
of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth. 

Make the layer one and a quarter inches thick for cres- 
cents. 

Bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes, or until 
the cake leaves the sides of the pan. Cut the layer into 
pieces with a crescent-shaped cutter, and cover the tops with 
icing No. 1, page 191, made of confectioners' sugar and with 
water strained from grated peel. Arrange the crescents as 
shown in illustration. 

The amount of mixture given in above receipt will make 
a long layer which can be cut into eight crescents, and two 
round layers one inch thick and six inches in diameter. 
Spread the tops of the round layers with same icing and 
place one on top of the other; or use cocoanut cream filling 
in place of the icing, as in illustration No. 171. 

ORANGE-CAKE, No. 2, or PLAIN CUP-CAKE 

^ cupful of butter, | cupful of milk, 

1 cupful of sugar, 2 eggs, 

2 cupfuls of sifted flour, | teaspoonful of baking-powder, 
Grated rind and juice of one orange, or of one lemon, 



182 LUNCHEONS 

Beat together the butter and sugar, add the yolks of the 
eggs and the flavoring, then alternately, a little at a time, 
the milk and the flour which has been mixed with the baking- 
powder by sifting them together. Lastly fold in the whites 
of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a moderate oven. 
If flavored with orange, cover the loaf with orange icing, or 
bake it in layers and spread the icing between the layers as 
well as on top. The icing should be mixed with the juice 
of an orange and the part put between the layers should have 
some of the grated peel in it. 

CHOCOLATE-CAKE 

Shave four squares of unsweetened chocolate, add half 
a cupful of milk and half a cupful of sugar. Boil until 
thickened, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla. 

Mix half a cupful of butter and half a cupful of sugar, 
stir them to a cream, then add the beaten yolks of three eggs 
and the chocolate mixture, then alternately, a little at a 
time, two cupfuls of sifted flour mixed with a teaspoonful 
of baking-powder, and half a cupful of milk. Lastly, fold 
in the whites of two eggs. Bake in loaves or in layers in 
a moderate oven. This amount of mixture will make two 
loaves. 

Cover with chocolate icing No. 13. If in layers, use the 
same icing between the layers. 

COCOANUT-CAKE 

Make two layers of cake, using any cake mixture. Spread 
cream filling between the layers. Cut the edges even, using 
a sharp knife. Cover the whole with icing and before it 
hardens sprinkle it with a plentiful amount of grated cocoa- 
nut. 




NO. 171. COCOANUT-CREAM CAKE. 




NO. 17'i. LOAF OF ( Alvi: i>i.(()i;\'n.i) w rni row ])i.i;i.i.' .-i i,\i; ami 

STAK OF ro\Vl>EKEU COCOA. 




NO. 173. LOAF OF CAKE DECORATED WITH ICING IN TWO SHADES OF WHITE. 



LOAF CAKES— SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 183 

COCOANUT CREAM-CAKE 

Use any cake mixture for the layers. The orange-cake 
mixtures are recommended. 

Make a filling as follows : put in a saucepan, 
1 cupful of milk, 
1 cupful of sugar, 
"I cupful of cocoanut, 

A piece of butter the size of a nutmeg. 

Mix them and let them come to the boiling-point, then add 
slowly a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch, moistened with 
a tablespoonful of milk, and stir until the mixture is thick- 
ened. Remove it from the fire and add the beaten yolk of an 
egg. When it cools and is beginning to set, spread it over 
the tops of both layers of cake and place one on the other. 
Trim the edges. Sprinkle the top with powdered sugar or 
with grated cocoanut. 

The cake in the illustration has in the center a confec- 
tioner's rose. Various kinds of sugar flowers can be bought 
at bakers' supply stores. 

CAKE DECORATED WITH STAR 

Paint the surface of an inverted loaf of any kind of cake 
with white of egg, then sift over it while it is moist enough 
powdered sugar to whiten it. Place a star stencil on top, get 
it exactly in the center, and sift powdered cocoa into the 
opening. 

The star could be made of granulated sugar, colored pink, 
if preferred, or a space could be filled with small candies 
called ' ' hundreds and thousands. ' ' 

TO MAKE STENCIL 

Place a piece of stiff paper over the bottom of the inverted 
pan in which the cake was baked and crease it enough to in- 



184 LUNCHEONS 

dicate the circle. Outline the circle with a pencil and draw 
inside of it two other circles, the first half an inch and the 
second one and a half inches inside the outer one. Draw 
two lines across the circles at right angles, then two more 
lines at equal distances between the others, then draw pointed 
lines in the eight spaces between the second and third circles. 



CAKE DECORATED IN TWO SHADES OF WHITE ICING 

The illustration shows a simple pattern for decorating a 
loaf of cake. The cake can be made of any mixture. It 
is first covered with icing No. 3, page 192, which gives 
a clear icing and makes a good background for the white 
lines. If it does not run evenly dip a knife in water and 
smooth it. Most irregularities can be smoothed out with a 
clean, wet knife. The lines are made of decorating icing, 
which is white (No. 16, page 195), pressed through a pastry- 
bag with tube of small opening. Each one of the center 
figures of the pattern holds a small silvered pellet of candy. 



ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH PINK BOW-KNOT 

Cover the cake with a smooth, hard icing (No. 2 or No. 4). 
Put decorating icing (No. 16), colored pink with cochineal, 
into a pastry-bag with tube of plain, small opening, and 
trace a bow-knot with it. Fill the space between the outlines 
with pink icing, and flatten it, to look like a ribbon, with 
a wet knife. 

If the icing is not satisfactory, take it off with a knife, 
wipe the cake with a dry cloth, and make another trial. A 
little practice with a pencil, drawing a knot of the right size 
on paper, will enable one to trace more easily the outlines on 
the cake. 




NO. 174. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH PINK HOW-KNOT. 




NO. 175. 1. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED ROSE-LEAVES. 
2. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED VIOLETS. 




NO. 176. LOAF OF CAKE COVERED WITH TUTTI FRUTTI ICING. 




NO. 177. CAKE-BASKET HOLDING MERINGUE MUSHKOOM!' 




NO. 178. 1. JELLY-KOLL. 2. DAISY CAKES. 3. MEDALLION FKUIT-CAKES. 



LOAF CAKES— SMALL CAKES— FANCY CAKES 185 

CAKES DECORATED WITH CANDIED VIOLETS 
AND WITH CANDIED ROSE-LEAVES 

No. 1. Cover a loaf of cake with icing flavored with rose- 
water or extract. Scatter over it candied pink rose- 
leaves. 

No. 2. Make a loaf of orange-cake. Cover it with white 
icing, and arrange around it candied violets form- 
ing two wreaths. 

CAKE-BASKET HOLDING MERINGUE MUSHROOMS 

Make a loaf of any kind of cake, cup- or sponge-cake pre- 
ferred. Bake it in a fluted pan. 

Soften a long piece of macaroni in boiling-hot water. It 
must be pressed carefully and gradually into the water as the 
ends soften. When the macaroni is sufficiently softened, 
pour cold water over it, lay it on a board, and bend it into the 
shape of a handle of suitable size for the cake. Let it dry, 
then brush it with the white of egg and sprinkle it with 
granulated sugar. 

Cut little holes in the top of the cake and insert the handle. 
Cover the top of the cake with mushroom-shaped meringues 
(see page 189). 

SMALL CAKES 

No. 1. Jelly-roll. Make a layer of sponge-cake, and while it 
is still hot cut off the edges, spread it with jelly, and 
roll it together. Then roll it in a stiff paper and tie 
it. If the cake is not over-baked and is rolled while 
hot it will not crack. The paper will keep it in shape. 
Cover the top and ends with icing. Decorate it with 
tracings of icing, candied cherries, and angelica. 



186 LUNCHEONS 

No. 2. Daisy cakes. Drop separate spoonfuls of sponge- 
cake mixture at intervals on a baking-sheet. Bake 
in a hot oven for a few minutes only, and watch care- 
fully that the edges do not burn. The cakes will 
spread, rising in the center, and be thin on the edges. 
Spread the flat sides with an icing colored green. 
Blanch some almonds, split them, and cut them in 
strips. Arrange them in a circle, and place in the 
center a little icing mixed with yolk of egg to color 
it yellow ; or the icing can be white and the almonds 
colored in the oven to a light yellow. 



No. 3. Medallion fruit-cakes. Use a sponge- or a cup-cake 
mixture and bake it in gem-pans. If they rise in the 
center cut off the tops to even them. Invert them, 
and with a small cutter stamp a circle in the center 
of each one and take out a thin layer of the cake. 
Cover the rest of the cakes with icing, or the cakes 
may be moistened with water and then rubbed over 
with powdered sugar to whiten them. Place in the 
center of each, where the piece was removed, a piece 
of preserved peach or other fruit, cut with the same 
stamp previously used, so the fruit will exactly fit 
the opening. 



CUP-CAKES WITH DECORATION OF FLOWER DESIGN 

Make a cup-cake mixture and bake it in gem-pans. In- 
vert the cakes and cover them with icing Nos. 1, 2, or 3. 
Place on top of each one half a candied cherry, the flat side 
down, two pieces of angelica cut into diamond shape to im- 
itate leaves, and a thin strip of angelica to imitate a stem. 




Na 179. CUP-CAKES, DECORATION OF FLOWER DESIGN. 




NO. 180. FANCY CAKES. 
1. CHERRY CAKES. 2. DOMINO CAKES. 3. MARBLE CAKES, i, HEMISPHERES. 



LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 187 

FANCY CAKES 

No, 1. Cherry-cakes. Cut a layer of any kind of cake into 
pieces three inches long and two and a quarter wide. 
Ice them, lay on candied cherries cut in halves, small 
strips of angelica imitating stems, and angelica cut 
in diamond-shaped pieces imitating leaves. 

The cakes in illustration are made of sponge-cake; 
the two on the outside are covered with icing No. 4, 
the other two with maple icing No. 5. 

No. 2. Domino cakes. Cut a layer of cake into two pieces. 
Cover one with chocolate icing and the other with 
white icing. While the icing is still soft cut the cake, 
using a sharp knife, into pieces three inches long 
and one and a half inches wide. 

Put a little decorating icing (No. 16) into a pastry- 
bag with plain tube of small opening, and press it 
through on to the cakes in dots and lines to imitate 
dominoes. Use white icing for the chocolate pieces, 
and the same icing mixed with cocoa powder for the 
white pieces. 

No. 3. Marble cakes. Drop any cake mixture from a spoon 
on to a floured baking-sheet, using about a dessert- 
spoonful of mixture for each cake, and leaving 
enough space for the cakes to spread. Place on the flat 
sides icings of three colors and let them run together 
irregularly to give a marble-like appearance. 

No. 4. Hemispheres. Make a cake mixture, using, 
I cupful of butter, 
^ cupful of powdered sugar, 
f cupful of pastry flour, 
^ teaspoonful of vanilla. 
Yolks of two eggs. 



188 LUNCHEONS 

Cream together the butter and sugar, add the yolks and 
flavoring, and then the flour. Make it into balls one inch in 
diameter, by rolling small portions of the mixture between 
the hands. Roll the balls in powdered sugar and place them 
on a floured tin. They will flatten in baking and leave the 
shape of hemispheres. Bake them in a moderate oven ten to 
fifteen minutes. Cover the flat sides with icing of different 
colors and ornament with decorating icing pressed through 
a tube of small opening. 

In the illustration some of the cakes have only the deco- 
rating icing in rings with a spot of jelly in the center, others 
have pistache with decoration, and others have plain icing 
with a spot of jelly in the center. 

CREAM-CAKES 

To a cupful of hot water add a tablespoonful of butter, 
a tablespoonful of sugar, and a dash of salt. AVhen the 
sugar is dissolved and the butter melted add a cupful and a 
quarter of flour. Cook it, stirring all the time, until it is 
a smooth paste that leaves the sides of the pan. Let it cool 
a few minutes and then add three or, if necessary, four eggs, 
beating in well one at a time. The paste should have suf- 
ficient consistency to hold its shape without spreading when 
dropped from a spoon. 

Put the paste into a pastry-bag with a plain tube of half- 
inch opening and press it through into balls from three 
quarters of an inch to two and a half inches in diameter, 
according to the size of cakes wanted. Brush the tops with 
egg and bake in a slow oven for thirty to forty minutes, or 
until the cakes are puffed and feel light. 

If they are to be used for plain cream-cakes, open them 
on one side and put in a gpoonful of cream filling made as 
follows : 




NO. 181. CRKAM CAKES, ICED. 




NO. 182. CKEAM CAKES WITH JAM AND WHIPPED CKEA5I. 




NO. 183. MEBINGUE MUSHROOMS. 



LOAF CAKES -SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 189 

CREAM FILLING 

Beat together the yolks of five eggs, half a cupful of sugar, 
and a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch, add a pint of 
scalding milk and stir over the fire until it is well thickened, 
then add half a teaspoonful of vanilla or other flavoring. 

CREAM-CAKES, ICED 

Make cream-cakes two inches in diameter, fill them with 
charlotte russe filling, or with apricot or other jam, and 
whipped cream. Cover them with icing No. 1 or 2; or fill 
them with cream filling flavored with coffee and cover them 
with icing No. 1 made with coffee. 

CREAM-CAKES WITH JAM AND WHIPPED CREAM 

Make cream-cakes one to one and a half inches across. 
Open and spread the inside with apricot or any jam, and 
then fill them with whipped cream. Boil a little sugar and 
water to the crack ; that is, until a little of the boiling sugar 
dropped into water will be brittle enough to break with a 
snap. Pour this over the cakes, and sprinkle them with 
chopped blanched almonds. 

LITTLE CREAM-CAKES WITH CARAMEL ICING 

Make cream-cakes of one inch diameter. Fill them with 
cream filling, and cover them with sugar boiled to the crack, 
as directed above. Place each one in a little paper box with 
other fancy cakes. 

MERINGUE MUSHROOMS 

Place meringue mixture (see page 150) in a pastry-bag 
with a plain tube, and press it through into shapes like mush- 
room caps. This is done by holding the tube still until 



190 LUNCHEONS 

enough of the egg is pressed through to form a cap of the size 
desired and high in the center. With a wet knife lightly 
press down the point left by the tube, and, if necessary, 
smooth the whole top. On another paper make forms resem- 
bling mushroom stems, and with a wet knife flatten the tops. 
Place all in a cool oven for a few minutes to form a crust, 
but do not let them color. When a little firm place them on 
the hot shelf to dry. Sprinkle the tops of the caps with 
powdered cocoa, and with the finger darken an edge around 
the fiat under surface to represent the gills of a mushroom. 
Moisten the tops of the stems with white of egg and stick 
them on the caps. 

COCOANUT MERINGUES 

Place meringue mixture (page 150) in a pastry-bag with 
plain tube of one-half inch opening, and press it through on 
to paper in pieces about three inches long. Cut the meringue 
from the tube to give clean ends. Sprinkle the tops with as 
much grated cocoanut as will adhere. Desiccated cocoanut 
can be used. Place in a moderate oven to color it lightly, 
then remove to the hot shelf of the range to dry. 

These meringues are also pretty if pressed through a star- 
tube into rings. 

GALETTES 

Roll puff-paste trimmings as thin as possible. Stamp it all 
over with some rough surface which will pierce the paste 
(a wooden meat-pounder was used for those in illustration). 
Then cut with a plain biscuit-cutter into round or oblong 
shapes. Lay these on a baking-sheet, paint the tops all over 
evenly with egg, and sprinkle them with powdered sugar. 
Bake in a medium oven until lightly colored. 

Every scrap of paste can be utilized for these cakes, which 
are very nice with ice-cream or for afternoon tea-cakes. 




NO. 184. COCOANUT MERINGUES. 




NO. 185. G ALETTES. 



LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 191 

There is a utensil for making these cakes, but it is too ex- 
pensive for general use. It is a metal plate with raised 
pattern, and over this the thin paste is rolled. 

PASTRY FINGERS 

Koll puff-paste to one-eighth inch thickness. Cut it into 
strips one inch wide and three inches long. Spread one 
half of the strips with a thin layer of any kind of jam, and 
cover with the remaining strips, making sandwich-like 
pieces. Bake in a hot oven for ten minutes, or until done, 
then paint the tops with white of egg and sprinkle with 
powdered sugar and chopped blanched almonds. Return to 
the oven to glaze and slightly color the nuts. 

If not used at once place the fingers in the oven a few min- 
utes to freshen them before serving. 



ICINGS 

No. 1. Using confectioners' sugar. This is XXXX sugar, and 
is exceedingly fine. 

Mix confectioners' sugar with enough water to 
make it spread evenly. A little flavoring of any kind 
may be put in the water, but is not necessary. This 
makes a soft, clear icing, which is very nice and is 
the easiest of all icings to prepare and handle. 

For orange icing. Use strained orange juice instead 
of water, or soak the grated peel in hot water for a 
little while, and then strain it through a cloth and 
use the water. 

For yellow icing. Dilute the yolk of an egg with a 
little water, and flavor with mandarin orange extract. 



192 LUNCHEONS 

For pistache icing. Color the water with green color- 
ing paste, and flavor it with one teaspoonful of or- 
ange-flower water and one quarter teaspoonful of 
bitter-almond extract. 

For pink icing. Use strawberry juice, or color water 
with a little cochineal. 

For wine-cakes. Use sherry instead of water. 

No. 2. Hard, white icing. Take the unbeaten white of an 
egg, dilute it with a very little water and flavor it. 
Stir in powdered sugar until it is of the consistency 
to spread. 

This makes a hard, white icing. 

No. 3. Boiled icing. Put a cupful of granulated sugar and 
a half cupful of hot water into a saucepan and stir 
until the sugar is dissolved, then let it boil without 
stirring until it threads or, if dropped into water, 
it can be taken up and rolled between the fingers into 
a soft ball. Remove it from the fire and stir until 
it slightly clouds, then immediately pour it over the 
cake. 

This makes a clear icing, and is a good coloring 
for cakes which are to be decorated, as it gives, with 
the decorating icing, two colors. 

No. 4. Boiled icing, No. 2. Cook, without stirring, after the 
sugar is dissolved, one cupful of granulated sugar 
and one quarter cupful of hot water until it threads, 
then pour it slowly over the whipped white of one 
egg. Beat the mixture all the time, and until it is 
cool enough to spread. 



LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 193 

No. 5. Maple icing. Boil to the thread or soft-ball stage 
a cupful of maple sugar with a quarter of a cupful 
of hot water to dissolve it, or use maple syrup. Pour 
it slowly over the whipped white of one egg as in 

No. 4. 

No. 6. Caramel icing. Boil a cupful of granulated sugar, 
a half cupful of milk, and a teaspoonful of butter to 
the thread or soft-ball stage. Flavor with a few drops 
of vanilla and stir until it begins to grain. 

No. 7. Crystal icing. Spread any icing over a cake,' and 
while it is still moist sprinkle over it the coarse grains 
of granulated sugar obtained by sifting. 

No. 8. Powdered sugar. Moisten with a brush the surface 
of a cake with the white of an egg diluted with a 
tablespoonful of water and stirred just enough to 
break the stringiness; then dust it thickly with pow- 
dered sugar, using a sifter. After the egg has dried, 
shake off the sugar that does not adhere. 

No. 9. Whipped cream. Flavor a half pint of cream with a 
few drops of vanilla and whip it until it is stiff and 
dry. Just before serving the cake ornament it with 
the whipped cream pressed through a pastry-bag and 
star-tube. 

This cream is used with strawberry cake and with 
molasses gingerbread. 

No. 10. Whipped cream with maple flavor. Heat two table- 
spoonfuls of maple syrup and dissolve in it one tea- 
spoonful of granulated gelatine which has been 
soaked in a tablespoonful of cold water. Let the 



194 LUNCHEONS 

syrup cool so it will not heat the cream, but before 
it sets stir it into a half pint of cream. Whip the 
cream to a stiff froth and press it through a pastry- 
bag and tube on to the cake in an ornamental pat- 
tern. 

No. 11. Butter. Whip a half pound of butter until it is 
smooth and light, sweeten it with thick sugar syrup 
flavored, and add a level tablespoonful of corn- 
starch. Press it through a pastry-bag and tube on 
to the cake in ornamental designs. 

No. 12. Mocha cream. Whip half a pound of butter, using 
a fork, until it is smooth and light. Flavor it with 
syrup made of a half cupful of sugar and a quar- 
ter cupful of strong coffee. Add a level tablespoon- 
ful of cornstarch to give the butter more stability. 
Press it through a pastry-bag and tube. 

No. 13. Chocolate icing, No. 1. Dissolve one and a half 
ounces of unsweetened chocolate in one third cupful 
of cream or milk, and add half a teaspoonful of 
butter. When this mixture is a little cool add the 
beaten yolk of one egg, one half teaspoonful of 
vanilla, and enough confectioners' sugar to make 
it spread. 

No. 14. Chocolate icing, No. 2. Melt two ounces of unsweet- 
ened chocolate on a hot pan, remove it from the fire, 
and add half a cupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of 
butter, and lastly a quarter cupful of milk. Re- 
place it on the fire and cook until a little dropped 
into water will form a soft ball. Pour it over the 
cake. 



LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 195 

No. 15. Tutti frutti icing. Cook a cupful of sugar and a 
quarter cupful of water to the thread or soft-ball 
stage. Turn it slowly on to the whipped white of 
one egg. Beat them together and add a tablespoon- 
ful each of chopped blanched almonds, citron cut 
in small pieces, seeded raisins, candied cherries cut 
into pieces, and angelica cut into bits. Spread it 
roughly over the cake. Any combination of fruits 
may be used instead of those given above. As this 
is a rich icing, it should be used on a plain cake, such 
as cup- or sponge-cake. 

No. 16. Decorating icing. Whip the whites of two eggs to a 
very stiff froth, then add slowly powdered sugar 
until the mixture is so stiff that every point and 
thread left by the beater will hold its place. It re- 
quires beating a long time. It is the same as me- 
ringue mixture, except that it is made hard with 
sugar instead of by drying, and takes about a half 
cupful of sugar to each egg. 

Note. — Sprinkle a cake that is going to be frosted with 
flour as soon as it is taken from the pan. Before 
icing, wipe off the flour. This prevents the icing 
from running so much, and makes it easier to spread. 

Note. — Smooth icings with the broad side of a wet knife. 
Wipe the blade clean, and dip it in water each time 
it is drawn over the icing. In this way very rough 
surfaces can be smoothed. 

Note. — Icing left over will keep any length of time, if ex- 
cluded from the air and not allowed to dry. Put it 
in a cup, cover the cup with a wet cloth, double sev- 
eral times, and cover the cloth with a saucer. 

Note.— For other icings and directions, see "Century Cook 
Book," page 483. 



Chapter XIV 
BREADS 



BREADS 



Stirred Bread 

Water Bread 

Whole Wheat Bread 

Unleavened Bread-chips 

Scotch Oat-cakes 

Pulled Bread 

Lace Toast or Zwieback 

Swiss Bolls 

Luncheon or Dinner Eolls, Braids, 

Twists 
Striped Bread and Butter 
Checkered Bread and Butter 



Sandwiches, Bread and Butter 

Sandwiches, Eolled or Motto 

Sandwiches, Lettuce 

Sandwiches : Cucumber, Egg, 
Cheese, Watercress, Pate de 
Foie Gras, Chicken, Fish or 
Meat, Nasturtium Flowers, Ol- 
ives, Nuts, Jam or Jellies 

Sandwiches, Toasted Cheese 

Brioche 

Corn-muffins 

Cheese-crackers 



STIRRED BREAD 

1^ quarts of water, 

2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 

1 tablespoonful of butter, lard, or cottolene, 

1 tablespoonful of salt, 

1 cake of compressed yeast. 

Flour enough to make a thick batter, or about 
two and three-quarter quarts. 

This quantity of material will make three loaves. 

Have the water warm, not hot. Stir into the water the 
sugar, salt, softened butter, and the yeast, which has been 
dissolved in a tablespoonful of water (yeast is more easily 
dissolved in a small quantity of water), then stir in enough 
flour to make a batter as thick as can be stirred easily. Stir 
and beat the batter well for about ten minutes. Cover the 
bread-pan and set it in a warm place (eighty degrees is the 
right temperature). When the dough is light, or about 
double its bulk, stir it down, and beat it well for a few min- 
utes. Let it rise a second time, and again beat it, then turn 
it into the pans, filling them half full. The tops of the 
loaves can be made smooth by brushing them with a pastry- 
brush dipped in water. 

The stirring gives a fine texture. The dough rises quickly 
after the first rising, and must be watched that it does not 
get light enough to sour. Let the loaves rise in the baking- 
pans to double in size, then bake in a hot oven for one hour. 

Bread made in this way is very light and spongy, and 
is much better than that which is made so thick with flour 

199 



200 LUNCHEONS 

that it can be kneaded. It has also the other advantages of 
being easier to make, the results are more reliable, and the 
objection of too much handling is removed. It requires an 
experienced hand to knead bread without making it too 
heavy with flour. 

WATER BREAD 

2^ quarts of flour, 

1 quart of water, 

1 tablespoonful of salt, 

1| cakes of compressed yeast. 

Place the flour on the hot shelf to get thoroughly warm. 
Let it be warm to the hand. Dissolve the yeast in a table- 
spoonful of water, and add it, with the salt, to a quart of 
warm water. Turn the liquid into the flour, reserving enough 
flour to use on the molding-board. Mix it thoroughly. Turn 
it on to the board and form it into well-shaped loaves. 
This quantity of material will make three loaves. Let it rise 
in the pans to double in size, which will take about one and 
a half hours. Bake for one hour. 

This bread is made in about three hours. It is the most 
simple receipt possible, and gives excellent results. Some 
judgment must be used about the quantity of flour, as it 
takes a little more or less according to its dryness. 

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD 

2| quarts of whole wheat flour, 
1 teaspoonful of salt, 
■J cupful of molasses or of sugar, 
^ cake of compressed yeast, 
About 1 quart of water. 

Add the salt to the water. Mix the molasses with part of 
the water and with the yeast, which has been dissolved in a 




NO. 186. BREAD-PAN WITH CLOSE-FITTING COVEU. 

The cover excludes the air from the dough, so no crust forms while it is rising. 




NO. 187. STIRRED BREAD. 




NO. 188. WATER BREAD. 




NO. 189. ROUND LOAF AND BAKING TIN. 




NO. 190. 1. UNLEAVENKD BREAD CHIPS. 2. SCOTCH OAT-CAKES. 



BKEADS 201 

little water. Stir the liquid into the flour, and add enough 
more water to make a thick batter. Beat it for some time, or 
until it is well mixed and the batter is smooth. Let it rise 
overnight. Early in the morning stir it down, and turn 
it into the pans. Let it rise in the pans to double in size, 
and bake for one hour. The above quantities will make 
two loaves. 

ROUND LOAF AND BAKING TIN 

Any bread mixture may be baked in this pan. The fancy 
form is its only recommendation. Round slices are attractive 
for a change, and made into toast give also an agreeable 
A^ariety. 

The pan is filled barely half full of dough. It is left to 
rise for one hour, and is baked for one hour. 



UNLEAVENED BREAD-CHIPS 

Mix into a quart of graham, or of white, or of whole wheat 
flour one tablespoonful of butter and one level tablespoon- 
ful of salt, then add about one and a quarter cupfuls of milk 
and water, half and half, or enough to make a stiff dough. 
Flour the molding-board and roll the mixture thin, fold it 
together twice and roll it again. Again fold it, and again 
roll it very thin. Mark it off, using a pastry-wheel, into 
strips one quarter of an inch wide and four to five inches 
long. Bake it in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, or 
until the chips are cooked through and are brittle, but not 
very brown. 

This bread is recommended for dyspeptics and people of 
delicate digestion, on the theory that the yeast-plant is not 
thoroughly destroyed when baking bread, and that it con- 
tinues to ferment in the stomach. 



202 LUNCHEONS 

SCOTCH OAT-CAKES 

These cakes should be made of meal ground finer than 
any we are able to get in our markets ; therefore, one must 
resort to the expedient of pounding in a mortar the finest 
meal obtainable, and sifting it through a coarse mesh. 

Add to one cupful of fine meal one teaspoonful of salt and 
enough hot water to make a stiff dough. Sift some of the 
meal on to the molding-board, and roll the mixture into 
a thin cake. Bake it slowly on a griddle until it is thoroughly 
dried. 

PULLED BREAD 

Take a loaf of freshly baked bread. Cut through the crust 
around the loaf at intervals of two inches, then pull the 
thick slices apart. Remove the crumb from the crusts, leav- 
ing it in ragged pieces. Place it in a slow oven to color and 
crisp, turning it often enough to have it dry and color on 
every side. 

THE BREAD-CUTTER 

The bread-plane can be adjusted to cut slices of any thick- 
ness. It will cut fresh bread very thin. Bread which is a 
day old it will cut as thin as lace. For cutting bread for 
sandwiches it is especially useful. 



LACE TOAST OR ZWIEBACK 

Use stale bread, and with the bread-plane shave off slices 
as thin as lace. Spread the slices on pans and place them in 
the oven for a minute to brown, or place them on a toaster on 
top of the range. 

It will take but a minute for them to dry and take an even 
light-golden color. 




NO. 191. PULLED BREAD. 




NO. 192. BREAD-PLANE. 




NO. 193. LACE TOAST OK ZWIEBACK. 




NO. 194. SWISS KOLLS IN THE DOUGH. 




NO. 195. SWISS ROLLS BAKED. 




NO. 196. LUNCHEON OK DINNER UOLLS AND BKAIDS IN THE DOL'GII. 



BREADS 203 

This toast can be served with soup, or at any time in place 
of cracker biscuits. It is a form of toast much liked by peo- 
ple who do not eat starchy foods and so abstain from bread. 

SWISS ROLLS 

Scald one cupful of milk to which have been added one 
tablespoonful of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
When it has partly cooled add one half a cake of compressed 
yeast. Stir in well about three quarters of a quart of flour. 
Put it in a moderately warm place to rise. When it is light, 
place it in the ice-box for at least three hours, or over- 
night. When ready to use, turn the raised dough on a well- 
floured board, and roll it to a half-inch thickness. Spread 
the top with butter, and roll the sheet of dough like a jelly- 
cake roll. See illustration No. 194. Cut from the end of the 
roll slices three quarters of an inch in thickness. 

Place the slices in pans, leaving plenty of room between 
each one, so they will not touch in rising. Let them rise 
slowly until they are very light, and more than doubled in 
size. Bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. 

LUNCHEON OR DINNER ROLLS, BRAIDS, TWISTS 

For these rolls, any bread dough may be used. In order 
to get the pieces of uniform size, mold the dough into a roll 
about one and a half inches in diameter. Cut the roll into 
pieces one and a half inches long, giving pieces the size of an 
egg, or make the pieces larger, if desired. Turn each piece 
into a ball, and then, using both hands, roll it into shape, 
making a roll which is thick in the center and pointed at 
each end. See illustration No. 196. 

Place the rolls in pans, giving them sufficient room to rise 
without touching. When they have a little more than 
doubled in size, brush the tops with beaten egg diluted with 



204 LUNCHEONS 

a little milk. Bake them in a quick oven for fifteen or 
twenty minutes. 

For making braids, roll the dough into pencil-shaped pieces 
about half an inch in diameter and five inches long. Brush 
each one with melted butter. Press the ends of three pieces 
together and braid them. Let them rise to double in size, 
brush the tops with egg and milk, and bake for fifteen to 
twenty minutes. 

Twists are made the same as braids, using two instead of 
three pieces of dough. 

STRIPED BREAD AND BUTTER 

For First Course v^ith Oysters and Clams on the 

Half Shell, For Fish and Salad Courses, 

also for Afternoon Tea 

Cut white and any kind of brown bread into slices from 
three eighths to half an inch in thickness. Spread each slice 
generously with butter which is soft enough to spread easily. 
Lay the slices together in alternating colors, two buttered 
sides coming together in each layer. Wlien the pile of but- 
tered slices is three and a half to four inches high, cut it into 
good shape, removing the crusts. Place the bread between 
two plates under a light weight and set it into the ice-box to 
harden the butter. Wlien ready to serve, cut it into slices 
about as thick as the original slices, and then into strips. 

CHECKERED BREAD AND BUTTER 

Cut, one inch thick, three slices each of white and of 
brown bread. Spread a slice of the white bread with a thick 
layer of soft butter. Lay on it a buttered slice of brown 
bread, placing the buttered sides together. Cover the top 
of the brown slice with butter, and lay on it a buttered slice 



BREADS 205 

of white bread, the buttered sides together. You have now 
three layers of bread, with the brown slice in the middle. 
Repeat the operation, reversing the order of the white and 
brown slices. Trim the two piles evenly, and place them 
in the ice-box under a light pressure. When the butter is 
well hardened, cut slices an inch thick from the ends of 
both piles. Butter these slices as before, placing two buttered 
sides together, and arrange them so that the colors will al- 
ternate in squares. 

The hardened butter holds the pieces together, and if the 
slices are evenly cut, a checkered square of bread will be the 
result. 

Put the bread and butter under a light pressure in the ice- 
box, and when ready to serve cut it into thin slices. 

BREAD AND BUTTER SANDWICHES 

It is difficult to butter very thin slices of bread unless the 
butter is soft. It is well, when making plain bread and butter 
sandwiches, to whip the butter until it is light, soft, and 
smooth, and then to spread but one piece of the sandwich. 
Where filling is used it is not necessary to butter the bread, 
as oil or butter is used in the paste. 

No. 1. In circles with nuts. Thin slices of buttered Boston 
brown bread, or of graham bread, cut with a biscuit- 
cutter into circles one and a half inches in diameter. 
The meat of one half of an English walnut is placed 
on the top of each one and held in place with a little 
butter. 

No. 2. Brown and white bread combined. Cut into circles two 
and a half inches or less in diameter thin slices of 
brown and white bread. Use a buttered round of 
brown and of white bread for each sandwich. 



206 LUNCHEONS 

ROLLED OR MOTTO SANDWICHES 

For rolled sandwiches the bread should be very fresh 
and moist, and entirely free from crust. As it is difficult to 
cut fresh bread with a knife, use a loaf which is a day old 
if a bread-plane is not at hand. Cut it into slices one eighth 
of an inch thick, using a sharp knife. It will cut easier if the 
crust is first removed from the loaf. Arrange the slices 
in a pile and cut them all together into good shape. Wrap 
the bread in a wet cloth and let it stand in a cool place for 
two hours. The bread will then be moist and pliable enough 
to roll without breaking. The slices may be simply buttered, 
or they may be spread with any mixture desired. If meat 
or fish is used, it should be reduced to paste by chopping 
and pounding, and be well seasoned. (See "Century Cook 
Book," page 364.) Use some butter or oil in the mixture, 
so the slices will not need to be buttered. Spread the slices 
with the paste and roll them carefully, then roll each one in 
a piece of paraffin paper, cut long enough to wrap the 
sandwich one and a half times, and wide enough to extend 
an inch over each end. Twist the ends of the paper. 

Keep the sandwiches in the ice-box until ready to use, and 
serve them with the papers on. Wrapped sandwiches will 
keep fresh for forty-eight hours. They are especially suita- 
ble for travelers and for picnics. 

LETTUCE SANDWICHES 

Cut fresh bread into slices a little more than one eighth of 
an inch in thickness, using the bread-plane if convenient. 
Arrange the slices in a pile, and cut the bread into a shape 
about four by four and a half inches. This removes the 
crusts and leaves all the slices of exactly the same size. Uni- 
formity in size and shape is one of the points to observe in 
making sandwiches. Spread the slices lightly with butter 




NO. 197. LUNCHEON OR DINNER ROLLS AND TWISTS BAKED. 








NO. 198. SODA BISCUITS CUT WITH FLUTED STAMP. 




KO. 199. STRIPED BREAD AND BUTTER. 




NO. 200. CHKCKERED BREAD AND BUTTER. 




NO. 201. BREAD AND BUTTER SANDWICHE.S. 

1. CIRCLES OF BROWN BREAD WITH NUTS. 2. CIRCLES OF BROWN AND 
WHITE BREAD COMBINED. 




NO. 202. 1. LETTUCE SANDWICHES. 2. ROLLED OR MOTTO SANDWICHES. 



BREADS 207 

which is soft enough to spread evenly without tearing the 
bread. Place on each buttered slice a leaf of crisp lettuce 
which is large enough to extend a little over the ends of the 
slice, and from which the midrib has been removed. Sprinkle 
the lettuce plentifully with salt. Roll the slices carefully, 
and tie around each one a piece of paper the width of the 
bread. 

At the time of serving, this paper is removed and the 
butter will then be sufficiently hardened to keep the rolls 
in shape. 

Place the sandwiches on a plate, cover them with a wet 
napkin, and keep them in a cool place until ready to serve. 
In this way sandwiches may be kept fresh for twenty-four 
hours. 

SANDWICH FILLINGS 

Chicken and celery. Chop chicken and celery in equal 
quantities until they are very fine. Mix them to a paste with 
mayonnaise. 

Egg filling. Chop hard-boiled eggs until very fine and mix 
them to a paste with plain French dressing, or with mayon- 
naise. 

Ham filling. Put in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, one teaspoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of sugar, 
and the yolks of two eggs. Beat them together, and add 
slowly, stirring all the time, three quarters of a cupful of hot 
vinegar. Place it on the fire and stir until the mixture is a 
little thickened, then add one cupful of minced ham and two 
thirds of a cupful of tender celery, also chopped very fine. 
Add salt and pepper to taste. 

This preparation can be kept, to use as needed, if put into 
preserve glasses and covered with melted butter or lard. 



208 LUNCHEONS 

SANDWICHES 

Made of Cucumber, Egg, Cheese, Watercress, Pate 

DE FoiE Gras, Chicken, Fish or Meats, 

Nasturtium Flowers, Olives, Nuts, 

Jams or Jellies 

Cut the bread into slices one eighth of an inch thick, and 
remove the crust as directed above. The filling of a sand- 
wich should be as thick as one of the slices of bread. After 
the sandwiches are prepared, using the whole slices, cut them 
into the shapes desired. This may be small squares, fingers, 
triangles, circles, or hearts, as the fancy or occasion dictates. 
Where a variety of sandwiches are being served at the same 
time, each variety should be cut alike, but of a different 
pattern from the others, and the dish garnished distinctively. 
For instance, a hard-boiled egg cut lengthwise, a square of 
cheese, a few olives, nuts, flowers, or whatever the filling 
used, can be placed in the center of the plate, and the sand- 
wiches arranged in a circle around it. A wishbone makes 
a good label for chicken, and parsley or gherkins would 
indicate meat mixtures. The brown breads make excellent 
sandwiches, and help to give variety. Cucumbers sliced, and 
watercress freed from the large stems, may be mixed with 
French dressing before being placed in the bread, or they 
may be only salted. 

Nasturtium flowers require no seasoning. 

Olives and nuts are sliced or cut into small pieces, but 
should not be cut very fine, as it injures their flavor. 

Cheese may be sliced or grated. 

See ''Century Cook Book," page 364, for further direc- 
tions about mixtures for fillings. 

When the sandwiches are finished they should be placed 
between plates under a light weight, covered with a damp 
cloth, and kept in a cool place until the time of serving. 




NO. 203. SANDWICHES. 

1. ROLLED SANDWICHES FILLED WITH STRIPS OF CELERY. 

2. HEART-SHAPED SANDWICHES FILLED WITH CHOPPED GREEN PEPPERS AND 

MAYONNAISE. 

3. HAM SANDWICHES CUT TO THE SHAPE OF PLAYING-CARDS AND DECORATED WITH 

PICKLED BEETS TO IMITATE THE THREE AND FOUR SPOTS OF HEARTS AND 
CLUBS. 

4. CHICKEN SANDWICHES STAMPED WITH CLUB- AND SPADE-SHAPED CUTTERS. 

Nos. 3 and 4 are novelties to serve at card-parties. 




NO. 204. SANDWICHES OF VARIOUS SHAPEl^ 




so. 205. TOASTED CHEESE SANDWICHES. 




NO. 206. LOAF OF BRIOCHE. 



BREADS 209 

Sandwiches prepared for a traveler's luncheon should He 
made a little thicker and larger than directed above, as they 
must be hearty enough to constitute a meal. If wrapped in 
paraffin paper, they will keep fresh for a long time. 

TOASTED CHEESE SANDWICHES 

Make a filling of grated cheese, toast the sandwiches on 
both sides, and serve them hot. 

Many kinds of sandwiches may be toasted. Sandwiches 
left over may be utilized in this way. 

BRIOCHE 

Brioche is a light bun. The mixture is also used for sav- 
arins and babas. See page 147. 

Make a leaven as follows: 

Add to a cupful of tepid milk a yeast-cake and half a 
pound of flour. Mix it well and set it in a warm place to rise 
until it is very light. It will take about an hour. 

Sift on to a rolling-board one pound of flour, and make 
a M^ell in the center. Break seven eggs into a bowl, add a 
teaspoonf ul of salt, and beat the eggs enough to break them 
thoroughly. Cut three quarters of a pound of butter into 
pieces. 

Put three tablespoonfuls of milk and two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar into the well of flour, add a piece of butter and some 
of the broken eggs. Work all these together with the hand, 
incorporating the flour gradually. Add the eggs and butter 
gradually until all are worked in, and continue the working 
for some time, then add the leaven and work the whole mix- 
ture for a long time, or until it does not stick. Set it aside 
to rise and double in size, work it again, and put it in the 
ice-box for twelve hours. 



210 LUNCHEONS 

TO MAKE A LOAF OF BRIOCHE 

Mold the brioche dough into a round ball. Place it in a 
pan, make a depression in the top with the hand, brush it 
with egg diluted with a little milk, and put into it a small 
ball of dough. Cut slits around the large ball. Let it rise, 
then bake it in a hot oven. 

CORN-MUFFINS 

I5 cupfuls of white flour, 
I5 cupfuls of yellow meal, 

1 cupful of sugar, 

2 cupfuls of milk, 

2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 

1 tablespoonful of salt, 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 
2 eggs. 

Put a cupful of milk in a saucepan on the fire and let it 
come to the scalding-point, then stir in the corn-meal, and 
continue to stir until the meal is thoroughly expanded. If 
a coarse meal is used, it should cook for a few minutes to 
destroy the grainy texture. Remove the meal from the fire 
and stir into it the butter and the sugar. Let it stand until 
cool, then add the rest of the milk, the eggs, which have been 
beaten (yolks and whites together), the salt, and lastly the 
flour, which has been thoroughly mixed with the baking- 
powder by sifting. Stir the mixture to smoothness and turn 
it into well-buttered gem-pans. Bake in a moderate oven for 
about forty-five minutes. 

Corn-meal should be thoroughly cooked, and the baking 
can be continued until the muffins draw away from the sides 
of the pans. The baking should be slow at first, so the 
muffins will rise evenly, giving a flat top. This quantity of 
mixture will make one dozen large muffins. 




XO. 207. CORNMEAL MUFFINS. 




NO. 208. CHKESE-CRA.CKEKS. 



BREADS 211 

The receipt may be modified by using less sugar or less 
butter, or by changing the proportions of meal and flour. 

CHEESE-CRACKERS 

Spread any biscuits with butter, and put them in the oven 
to brown slightly. As soon as they are removed from the 
oven cover them with grated cheese, let them stand a few 
minutes, then shake off all the cheese that does not stick. 

Saltine biscuits are especially good to use with cheese. 



INDEX 



INDEX 



Anchovy canapes, 41 

Eggs, 40 
Apple and celery salad, 121 
Apple pudding, jellied, 146 
Apple salad, individual, 122 
Apples, baked, 141 

Eichelieu, 140 

Stewed, No. 1, 140 
No. 2, 141 
Apricots, compote of, 142 

Water-ice, 170 
Aspic of chicken, 125 

Of pate de foie gras, 126 

Of vegetables, 120 

B 

Babas, 147 
Baked apples, 141 

Bananas, 138 

Fillets of fish with sauce, 66 

Hominy, 96 

Mushrooms, 79 

Quinces, 138 

Sweetbreads, 73 

Tomatoes and f outage cups. 
Bananas, baked, No. 1, 138 
No. 2, 138 

And cream, 143 

Sauted, 138 



Bavarian cream sliced and gar- 
nished with cream-cakes, 153 
Bean croquettes, 98 
Beaten omelet, 52 
Beef consomme, 45 

Casserole, 85 
Boiled ham, No. 1, 128 
No. 2, 128 

Icing, 192 

Lettuce, 96 
Boned ham, 129 
Braids, 203 
Brandy peaches, 109 
Bread braids, 203 
Bread and butter, checkered, 204 

Sandwiches, brown and white 
combined, 205 

Sandwiches in circles with 
nuts, 205 

Sandwiches, remarks about, 205 

Striped, 204 
Bread-cutter, 202 
Bread and jam tartlets, 143 

Pulled, 202 

Eound loaf of, 201 

Stirred, 199 
81 Twists, 203 

Unleavened, 201 

Water, 200 

Whole wheat, 200 
Brioche, 209 
215 



216 



INDEX 



Brioche, loaf of, 210 

Kemarks about, 209 

To make, 209 
Broiled lobster, 63 

Quails, 115 

Shad roe, 64 

Smelts, 64 

Tomatoes, 97 
Browned sauce, 102 
Burning cherries, 140 

Peaches, 140 
Butter, maitre d 'hotel, 104 

Ways of preparing, 31 

Icing, 94 

C 

Cabbage salad, 122 
Cafe frappe, 171 
Cake, cocoanut, 182 
Cake-basket holding meringue 

mushrooms, 185 
Cake, chocolate, 182 

Decorated in two shades of 
white, 184 

With candied rose-leaves, 185 
With pink bow-knot, 184 
With tutti fr>- icing, 195 
With candied violets, 185 
Gingerbread, 179 

With chocolate glaze, 179 
With icing and preserved 

ginger, 180 
With whipped cream, 180 
Jelly-roll, 185 
Orange, in crescents, 181 
In layers, 181 
No. 2, or plain cup, 181 
Strawberry, No. 1, 162 
No. 2, 162 
Cakes, cream, how to make, 188 
Iced, 189 



Cakes, cherry, 187 

Cup, 181 

Decorated with flower design, 
186 

Daisy, 186 

Domino, 187 

Hemispheres, 187 

Marble, 187 

Meringue mushrooms, 189 

Meringues, cocoanut, 190 

Pastry fingers, 191 

With medallion of fruit, 186 
Calf's brains a I'aurore, 75 

A la poulette, 75 

To prepare, 75 

With black butter, 76 

AVith hollandaise, 76 
Canapes, anchovy, 41 

Of caviare, 41 

Of salmon, 40 
Caramel icing, 193 
Casserole of beef, 85 

Of chicken. No. 1, 99 
No. 2, 99 
Celery, cream of, 48 

Sandwiches, 207 
Charlotte russe, strawberry. No. 1, 
150 
No. 2, 150 
Checkered bread and butter, 204 
Cheese-crackers, 211 
Cheese, cream, with Bar-le-duc 
currants, 131 

Croquettes, 109 

Patties, 110 

Sandwiches, toasted, 209 
Cherries, 176 

Burning, 140 
Cherry-cakes, 187 
Chestnut bavarian, 149 

Puree, 148 



INDEX 



217 



Chestnut salad, 124 
Chicken aspic, 125 

Casserole, 99 

Consomme, 46 

En surprise, 101 

Fried in cream, 100 

Joints, 100 

Mousse, 126 

Salad, 123 

Smothered, 100 

Timbales, 77 
Chocolate bread pudding, 136 

Cake, 182 

Cream, 153 

Icing, 194 

Sauce for ice cream, 167 

Sponge, 153 
Clam broth, 46 

Bisque, 46 

Cocktails, 39 
Clams, cream of, 47 

On the half shell, 41 
Cocoanut-cake, 182 
Cocoanut cream-cake, 183 

Meringues, 190 

Pie, 160 

Pudding, 136 
Coffee mousse, 147 
Cold cut meats, 127 
Cold fish, garnished, 129 

Halibut, 191 
Cornmeal mufSns, 210 
Cold dishes, 20 

Service, 125 

Slaw, 61 
Compote of apricots, 142 

Of figs, 142 

Of pears, 142 
Consomme of beef, 45 

Of chicken, 46 
Coquilles of sweetbreads, 74 



Cornstarch puddings, 144 
Cottage pie, 90 
Cranberry pie, 160 
Cream-cakes, 188 

How to make, 188 

Iced, 189 

Little, with caramel icing, 189 

With jam and whipped cream, 
189 
Cream cheese with Bar-le-duc cur- 
rants, 131 

Dressing, 116 
Cream of celery, 48 

Of clams, 47 

Of oysters, 47 

Of spinach, 48 
Creamed egg baskets, 54 

Fish garnished with potatoes, 67 

Lobster, 63 

Poached eggs, 54 
Croquettes, 76 

Of beans, 98 

Of cheese, 109 

Of farina, 135 

Of shad roe, 64 
Crystal icing, 193 
Cup-cake, 181 

Cup-cakes with flower design, 186 
Currant pie, 160 

Shortcake, 162 
Currants, 38 

Frosted, 38 

On individual plates, 38 

D 

Daisy cakes, 186 
Dinner rolls, 203 
Dishing and garnishing, 7 
Domino cakes, 187 
Dressing, cream, 116 



218 



INDEX 



Dressing, French, 115 
Mayonnaise, 116 

E 

Eggs, anchovy, 40 
A I'aurore, 57 
A la Eomaine, 53 
Baked in green peppers, 53 

In tomatoes, 53 
Earci, No. 1, 56 

No. 2, 56 
In nests, 55 

Poached and creamed, 54 
Remarks about, 51 
Scrambled with tomatoes, 54 
Spanish, 56 
To poach, 51 

In French style, 51 
To scramble, 51 
With giblet sauce, 57 
Entrees, 69 



Farina croquettes, 135 

Fig pudding, 136 

Figs, compote of, 142 

Fillets of beef, remarks about, 85 

With tomatoes, 86 

And mushrooms, 87 
Fillets of fish, baked, 66 

Fried, 65 

Eemarks about, 65 

With mushrooms, 67 
Fillets of flounder, 65 
FiUings for sandwiches, 207 
Fish a la Japonnaise, 67 

Cold, 129 

Creamed and garnished with po- 
tatoes, 67 

Cutlets, cold, 130 



Fish, halibut, cold, 131 

In the garden, 130 
Fontage cups, 30 
Forcemeat, 101 
Frangipane tartlets, 158 
French dressing, 115 

Omelet, 52 
Fried fillets of fish, 65 

Oysters with cold slaw, 61 

ScaUops, 62 
Frosted currants, 38 
Frozen punches, 109 
Fruit souffles, 139 

Tartlets, 159 
Fruits, cherries, 176 

Currants, 38 

Pears, 176 

Pineapples, 175 

Salpicon of, 37 

G 

Galettes, 190 
Garnishing, 7 
Garnished cold fish, 129 
Gingerbread with chocolate glaze, 
179 

With icing and preserved ginger, 
180 

With whipped cream, 180 
Glaze, 104 
Glazed tongue, 127 
Gnocchi a la Franqaise, 111 

k ritalienne, 110 

X la Eomaine, 110 
Grape-fruit in glasses, 37 
Green-gage pudding, 137 
Green pepper sandwiches, 208 

H 

Ham, boiled, 128 
Boned, 129 
And eggs, minced, 92 



INDEX 



219 



Hard sauce, 105 
Hemisphere cakes, 187 
Hollandaise sauce, 103 
Horseradish sauce, 88 
Huckleberry pudding, 135 



Ice cream, peach, 169 
Melon, 168 
Plain, 167 
Strawberry, 168 
Icing, boiled, 192 
Butter, 194 
Caramel, 193 
Chocolate, 194 
Confectioners' sugar, 191 

Orange, 191 

Pink, 192 

Pistache, 192 

Wine, 192 

Yellow, 191 
Crystal, 193 
Mocha cream, 194 
Powdered sugar, 193 
Tutti frutti, 195 
Whipped cream, 193 

With maple sugar, 193 
Individual currants, 38 
Pineapple, 38 



Jalousies, 159 
Jam tart, 157 
Jardiniere, 81 
Jellied cutlets, 130 
Jelly-roll, 185 



Lace toast, 202 

Leg of mutton a la jardiniere, 89 
Slices a la jardiniere, 90 



Lemon water-ice, 169 
Lettuce, boiled, 96 

And nasturtium salad, 118 

Sandwiches, 206 
Liquid sauces, 105 
Liver loaf or timbale, 127 

TLmbales, 78 
Lobster, broiled, 63 

Creamed, 63 

M 

Macedoine water-ice, 171 
Maitre d 'hotel butter, 103 
Maple icing, 193 

Sauce for ice cream, 168 
Marble cakes, 187 
Mayonnaise dressing, 116 
Measures and terms, 32 
Meat and potato pie, 91 

Sauces, 102 
Meats, cold, 127 
Medallion cakes, 186 
Melon ice cream, 168 
Meringue cream tart, 152 

Crown, 152 

Mushrooms, 189 

Eing, 151 
Meringues filled with whipped 
cream or ice cream, 153 

How to make, 150 
Minced ham and eggs, 92 

Meat with potato rings, 91 
Mocha cream icing, 194 
Motto sandwiches, 206 
Mousse, chicken, 126 

Coffee, 147 

Peach, 148 
Muffins, cornmeal, 210 
Mushrooms, baked, 79 

Of meringue, 189 

Stuffed, 79 



220 



INDEX 



Muskmelon, 39 

Mutton chops a la soubise, 87 

Boned, with artichokes, 88 
With mushrooms, 89 

With horseradish sauce, 88 



Omelet, beaten, 52 

Chasseur, 53 

Plain French, 52 
Orange-cake in crescents, 181 

In layers, 181 
Orange icing, 191 

Water-ice, 170 
Oranges, 37 
Oyster cocktails, 39 
Oysters a la Newburg, 62 

Cream of, 47 

Fried, with cold slaw, 61 

On the half shell, 41 

Sauted, 61 



Panned chicken, 100 
Pastry-bag, 30 
Pastry fingers, 191 

Burning, 140 
Peaches, brandy, 109 

And cream, 143 
Peach ice cream, 169 

Mousse, 148 

Pudding, 145 
Pears, 176 

Compote of, 142 
Pie, cottage, 90 

Cranberry, 160 

Currant, 160 

Meat and potato, 91 
Pineapple, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 175 

Individual, 38 



Pineapple pudding, 146 

Water-ice, 170 
Pine cones, 144 
Pink icing, 192 
Pistache icing, 192 
Plain French omelet, 52 
Playing-card sandwiches, 208 
Poached eggs, 51 

In French style, 51 

With greens, 55 
Pork tenderloins with fried ap- 
ples, 94 
Potato puree, 95 

Straws, 28 

Salad, 123 
Potatoes, baked, 95 

Mashed, 27 

Puffed, 28 
Pudding, chocolate bread, 136 

Cocoanut, 136 

Cornstarch, 144 

Fig, 136 

Green-gage, 137 

Huckleberry, 135 

Jellied apple, 146 

Peach, 145 

Pineapple, 146 

Sauces, 105 

Tapioca, 145 

With prunes, 137 
Puff -paste, how to make, 154 
Pulled bread, 202 
Punches, 109 
Puree of chestnuts, 148 

Q 

Quails, broiled, 115 

Boasted, 115 
Quenelles of cornmeal, 96 
Quinces, baked, 138 



INDEX 



221 



E 



Eemarks about bread and butter 
sandwiches, 205 

Brioche, 209 

Fillets of fish, 65 

Sandwiches, 208 

Scallops, 62 

Soups, 45 
Eice a la Milanese, 95 
Eice prune pudding, 146 
Eissoles, 71 
Eoasted quails, 115 
Eolled fillets of flounder, 65 

Sandwiches, 206 
Eolls, luncheon, 203 

Swiss, 203 



S 



Salad, artichoke bottoms, 119 
Asparagus tips, 119 
Bouquet, 118 

Lettuce and tomato and eggs, 
119 
Cabbage, 122 
Celery and apple, 121 
Chestnut, 124 
Chicken, 123 

Cucumber and tomato, 120 
Daisy, 119 
Dressing, cream, 116 

French, 115 

Mayonnaise, 116 
Fruits, 124 
Lettuce and hard boiled egg, 

118 
Lettuce hearts, 118 
Mashed potato, 123 
Plain lettuce, 117 • 
Preparing, 116 



Salad, remarks about, 117 

Shad roe, 123 

Tomato and green pepper, 121 

Turnip cups with celery, 121 

Vegetable, 120 
Salpicon, 72 

Of fruits in glasses, 37 
On glass plate, 37 
Sandwiches, bread and butter, 205 

Brown and white bread, 205 

Celery, 207 

Fillings for, 207 

Green pepper, 208 

In circles with nuts, 205 

Lettuce, 206 

Playing-card, 208 

Eemarks about, 205 

Eolled or motto, 206 

Toasted cheese, 209 
Sauce, brown, 102 

Hollandaise, 103 

Horseradish,' 88 

Hot chocolate, 167 

Hot maple, 168 

Maitre d' hotel, 103 

Soubise, 87 

Supreme, 102 

Tomato puree, 103 

White, 102 
Sauted bananas, 138 

Oysters, 61 
Savarins, 147 
Scallops, fried, 62 

Eemarks about, 62 

On the shell, 63 
Scotch oat-cakes, 202 
Scrambled eggs with brains, 58 

With tomato, 54 
Shad roe, broiled, 64 

Croquettes, 64 

Salad, 123 



222 



INDEX 



Shortcake, currant, 162 
Smelts, broiled, 64 
Smothered chicken, 100 
Soubise sauce, 87 
Souffles, fruit and others, 139 

Eemarks about, 139 

Strawberry, 139 
Soups, remarks about, 45 
Spanish eggs, 56 
Spinach, 97 

Cream of, 48 
Squabs, 115 
Stewed apples, 140 
Strawberry bavarian, 150 

Ice cream, 168 

Souffle, 139 

Tartlets, 158 

Water-ice, 170 
Strawberry-cake, 162 
Strawberries and cream, 143 

On individual plates, 38 
Striped bread and butter, 204 
Stuffed green peppers, 81 

Mushrooms, 79 

Tomatoes, 80 
Stuffing for tomatoes, 80 
Supreme sauce, 102 
Sweetbreads, baked, 73 

Coquilles of, 74 

Glazed, 74 

Remarks about, 73 

To prepare, 73 
Swiss rolls, 203 



T 



Tartlets, bread and jam, 143 

Frangipane, 158 

Fruit, 159 

Pine cones, 144 

Strawberry, 158 
Terms, 32 

Timbale of liver, cold, 127 
Timbales of chicken, 77 

Of liver, 78 
Tomato farci, 97 

And green pepper salad, 121 

Puree, 103 
Tomatoes, baked, and fontage 
cups, 81 

Broiled, 97 

Stuffed, 80 

Stuffing for, 80 
Tongue, glazed, 127 
Tutti frutti icing, 195 
Twists, 203 



IJ 



Unleavened bread, 201 



Veal a I'ltalienne, 93 
Chops, 92 
Cutlets, small, 93 
Grenadines of, 94 
Vegetable salad, 120 
Vegetables, aspic of, 120 
Vegetarian dish, 82 
Vol-au-vent, 71 



Tapioca pudding, 145 

With prunes, 137 
Tart, jam, 157 
Tartlet shells, how to make, 157 



W 

Water bread, 209 
Water-ice, apricot, 170 



/i 



INDEX 



223 



Water-ice, lemon, 169 

Macedoine, 171 

Orange, 170 

Pineapple, 170 

Strawberry, 170 
Water-ices in general, 169 
Whipped cream icing, 193 
White sauce, 102 



Whole wheat bread, 200 
Wine icing, 192 



Yellow icing, 191 



u 



